Shouldn't be too hard, chemically or abrasively. A polishing would be in order afterwards I'd imagine.
I know it sounds nuts but if there is someone in your area that does the dustless blasting that will strip it. HRP
If it is paint use spray can paint remover. If it is powder coat it will probably require abrasive blasting which may, depending on the blast media, mark the base metal.
That's why I'm thinking about doing this. I tried to find these in a polished finish but black wrinkle was the only way they were available. I'd much rather have them polished.
When I got my old Weiand blower intake, it was partly covered with some black stuff. I think it might be powder coat? Anyways...it still has some, I could not remove it completely. I used glass bead blasting. I would start with lacquer thinner, then try paint stripper, and if that doesn't do it, try the blasting.
The dustless blasting will remove the wrinkle finish without roughing up the aluminum,media blasting will make it more time consuming when you start polishing. HRP
I would also look into soda blasters in your area. I did the aluminum intake on my Hemi that had many layers of paint on it. When they were done, it looked like a fresh casting, and they only charged me $40! KK
Not weird at all, lots of people like 'em. I would like 'em too on the right engine/engine compartment colors. I just see what I'm building as looking better with polished covers.
I would try a chemical like aircraft stripper first. Oven cleaner will etch the aluminum if left on the part to long, making the polishing job more difficult.
If you intend to have someone else polish them ask their advice before doing anything. Charlie Stephens
Any chance you could paint them a color you like and clean off the paint on the polished part with a thinner moistened rag? Charlie Stephens
If it's powdercoat (which I doubt), use a propane torch and a hand-held wire brush to remove it. For paint, you'll probably need to sandblast between the fins and around the lettering. Make sure you mask the oil fill spout and plug wire holders before blasting so you don't dull the finish. My experience is paint remover won't quite get all the paint because of porosity in the aluminum, not to mention being slow and messy. If you intend to repaint between the fins and lettering, leave what's there and just paint over it. To prep the rest of the covers for polishing, use small surface conditioning discs (AKA Scotchbrite) to smooth them. Start with blue discs to remove any paint and semi-polish the metal, then follow up with gray discs. Example... Right to left, what I started with (paint, corrosion, small nicks and scratches), after prepping with discs, and the finish polish. I use 2" roloc-style discs with a $15 HF angle-head die grinder. Each step took about 15 minutes. After polishing many nasty-looking vintage motorcycle parts, this is by far the easiest/quickest method I've found.
If that's the case, then I'd recommend glass-beading the fin/lettering areas as that will give a closer 'as cast' appearance while 'smoothing' any flaws from the casting process. Use the discs everywhere else, then polish.
Steve, most high production items that are wrinkle finished are powder coated,be it valve covers,motorcycle parts or patio furniture. The shop Jimmy works at did a good bit of wrinkle finish for me when I was building Harleys. HRP
If it's powder, then the heat/wire brush method is the easiest way to remove it. Blasting is slooowww, and chemical removers are both slow and nasty messy....