Technical Broken valve in 59a Flathead

My ‘46 Coupe has always had a little bit of a breakup/misfire on acceleration, but it started getting pretty bad the other day so I drove it to work and figured I’d do a compression test. Well, didn’t even get that far when I pulled the #3 plug, the electrode was mashed.

Not what I wanted to see.

So, Long store short, pulled the head and sure enough, #3 exhaust valve broken in half. No apparent cracks so far. I’m prepping to yank the engine and a buddy of mine has offered to do a complete valve job for me. I know I should have the entire engine rebuilt (about 42,000 original miles supposedly), but I can’t afford it. I plan on changing all the valves, guides, springs, keepers etc... the number 3 seat may be able to be recut, but I won’t know til it goes to the machine shop.

Anything else I should look into while I’m there? I was thinking I should probably get adjustable lifters and also valve spring shims etc. I’m all about doing things the right way, but circumstances don’t allow for me to be spending a ton of money at the moment.


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What's that yellow goober in the water passage way about and what were you doing with looks like a torch head of some kind in a cylinder wall. If your friend wants to do a valve job than have at it. The hardest part of these rebuilds is getting the old valve train out.

 

You mean the rust coated water jackets and spark plug wire terminal?

 

If your going adjustable,drill your lifter bosses so you can adjust them without trying to use those stupid "lifter wrenches". It will save you a lot of time.

 

If all the cylinder head studs came right out, a third of your battle is done. Getting the valve train out takes you half way there. Even if you stayed with the existing pistons/rings and crankshaft bearings, you have the chance to bake or boil out the block to clean out the water passages. Plus with it all apart, it’s so much easier to drill the lifter bosses and not worry about getting metal shavings inside your motor.

Of course, you’ll want to check the bearings to make sure everything looks ok there......just in case. And who knows, that fiber timing gear could be worn out. You get to clean out the sludge in the oil pan and pickup screen. Fresh motor mounts are usually smart.

 

Don't use the mushroom valves, get the later style.

 

I got a standard kit from Macs/Ecklers. Valves, 1pc guides, springs, retainers and locks.

 

The head bolts came right out. There's hardly any ridge at the top of the cylinders but the pistons appear stock size. The couple of valves that are open currently, spin freely. I'm optimistic as far as extraction of the valvetrain goes. This engine looks very clean so far.

 

Let us know how this all turns out.

 

From what you have described you dodged a bullet all around - head studs removed, valves out (since it was a runner they should be easily removed), so the sky is the limit on what you can do for this engine, governed by your pocketbook. Like it has been said, check all your bearing clearances, bore size, etc, etc, and do what's needed for now until funds allow for further mods ....

As for mushroom styled valves, they will work just fine but take more work .... my avatar engine has them and I have been very happy with their performance so far ...