Hot Rods The No Frame Model A Modified

Are you feeling the @Limey Kid build here or something ? Maybe, I guess, in the sense of race car modern in hot rod camoflage. Reminiscent could be the word. I see innovation and thoughtful process, with some kick ass fabrication here. Both builds are fantastic thus far. Thanks for NOT being happy building something anyone could.

 

Was it this one, Gary? I really enjoyed that build as well. Although Striper used a conventional ladder frame.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/28-modified-build-downunder.282490/

 

YES, that's the one I was thinking about. But the LimeyKid's car is pretty good, too! Gary
See: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/25-t-roadster-sports-rod.998500/

 

loving this, day dreaming in metal. Brilliant.

 

I had this 48 Ford F1 front end that I could steal the brakes off of,


I have heard this would work but I have never personally done it, so here is my experience with it. Some people say to just Mount the brakes upside down and then roll the wheel cylinders over. They mount up okay,


But the wheel cylinder mounting is not concentric with the center line of the wheel cylinder bores. You would have to alter the mounting in the backing plate in order for it to work as it also throws off wear the shoes meet the wheel cylinder.


Another option that is talked about is redrilling the four mounting holes on the backing plate in order to rotate the wheel cylinder ahead of the spring mount. This could work too, but what I can see is it rotates the wheel cylinder to an angle and it looks to me like there's going to be problems getting the air out of them. I'm sure it could be dealt with but didn't look like the best option to me.


The most viable option in my mind is to mountain straight up as they should be, and this causes an interference with the springmount hitting the backing plate, but there isn't much trimming that needs to be done to get everything to fit together. It seems to leave plenty of room for the brake line to pass the Spring Mount, and really the only issue is that the bleeder screw comes into contact with the Shock mount. I believe you could find a shorter bleeder screw if the shock mount was needed, in my case I'm not using the shock mount so I just cut it off and blended it in.


It all fit together nicely, unfortunately I forgot to take a picture after I put it on. I will grab one when I'm back down at the shop.

 

As a side note, I will be using the 37 to 39 hubs and wide 5 Wheels, however every set of wide 5 drums I have seems to be well beyond using. If someone has a nice pair please let me know.

 

very interesting build..... with great skills and ideas.
I like it a lot.... and will be watching

 

As the plot thickens, the rear wheels are down for a nasty sand storm and powder coating, the front s are 19 inch Harley. Currently building fixtures and leaning some G code from my old man to make it all jive.

 

It's the re-invention of the wheel second time around Hotrod Style...

 

Tell me more about the Harley wheel idea. I have been contemplating making some hubs to lace to some 19" rims for my Continental star speedster. What would you be using for brakes?

Also, if you need help with the g-code, I program lathes for a living.

 

We had used Readily available Harley wheels on our North West Vintage Dragster along with Model T axle and spindles. Like most Harley stuff the wheels are way over built, makes them a good candidate for light hot rod. I did the drawings for both Model A spindles as well as 32-48 spindles. They use the corresponding wheels bearings that came stock with the spindles. The model A does require the later nut to hit the cotter key hole as it is a little thinner. Just as the path of least resistance I am going to use the Harley brake rotors and I have a set if front calipers coming from a Dyna.... Stay tuned to see how that works out.

 

Looking good!

Here is another thread you might want to check out for a tube space-frame T-modified ...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...dified-journey-to-the-end-of-the-road.685236/

 

Photo dumping cause I am switching phones this weekend. You will have to make your own descriptions. I will come back and fix it later.

 

I like the way you think. And work.

 

Very cool I’m looking forward to seeing this come together

 

Finished up the machine work on the wheels, and had the Excelsiers mounted up. I absolutely love the look. We can do this for model A spindles and 32-48 spindles, pm me if you are interested in a set. Made some progress on the seats, then had to put the cowl on for some glamour shots.

 

Here is what it would have looked like 50 years ago

 

You're such a badass. That is sweet !

 

Hi Rob,

Just so I'm clear on mounting the HD spoke wheels on the Ford spindles:

You made all new hubs for the wheels? And didn't modify the HD hubs?

Did you re-lace the wheels yourself?

 

N I C E, N I C E, N I C E! Gary

 

I love shit like this, very good pics, and a ton of eyeball on your part.

 

Cotton Werksman's 1972 Nats. Build.

 

Very nice a lot of work but you did it your way that is good .

 

the black and white makes the chrome pop , your work is wonderful , thanks for sharing . I don't know why , but the b&w makes the 4 banger stand out more .

 

Wow! What an original build. Love it.

 

No these are reproduction sportster front wheels, they have a boat load of fat in the hubs (like most Harley Parts) I made up a mount and bored a larger hole in one side to accept the Ford bearings.

Seems like it makes my shop look cleaner too

 

After sitting in the car I could tell that one of the crossbars was going to be right where you wanted to put your foot for the gas pedal. Solution was to cut it out and tap the end of the shaft where the pedals originally pivoted. Then reattach the bar there to carry the load forward in the bellhousing. The next pictures show the process of Designing the pedal assembly, you will notice that the lower plate changes partially through as I found that I could not reach the pedals even though I am fairely long-legged. This allowed me to bring the master cylinders in side of the cowl which I like and I am using a Wilwood balance bar which will be nice for setting the Brake bias .

 

The clutch shaft runs through the brake pivot tube to the right hand side of the pedals and mechanically actuates the lever as it did before, I just had to re-index the arms on the shaft.

 

Great stuff. I'd like to book a ride, please! Gary