Long story short I bought this model a roadster this spring and have been driving it fine all summer up until about a month ago I was driving down the freeway and the driver side lower stanchion broke right where the upper stanchion bolts to it. Ive always noticed the windshield moves from side to side a lot. So I welded it back on and it was good for about 50 miles and again broke right below the weld. What is causing the windshield to move so much side to side? In the pictures I took you can see where the windshield hits the stanchion going over large bumps.. It also moves side to side a lot at a idle. You can also see where it is starting to crack on the passenger side. Any help would be appreciated! I'd like to get it figured out before I paint it this winter. Thanks! Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I don't think that is a roadster...more like a coupe with the lower stanchions welded on. There should be a little rake to the windshield.
Yep you're correct.. It was originally a coupe but was shortened and made into a roadster.. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
those lower stantions were cast iron or brass... cast iron takes a welder that is used to that as it will crack...
The above pix shows the "top anchor pin" pointing back... stock it points forward as there is a little tilt back in the stock windshield... the threaded hole halfway up is for rear view mirror... don't know if pass side had one... got your upper stantions on the wrong sides... but that won't cause a crack in the lowers... ... HIH...
very easy fix and will look way better. All model A's had "arms that would allow you to open your windshield for air. Open yours about 20-30 degrees, install the arms Im mentioning ( they go on the lower part of the shield) and they have quarter size nutz you turn in place to lock windshield in said position. You will take considerable pressure off of the frame. Total investment about 30 bucks.
Lay the windshield back some (even more than on a stock roadster)...more streamlined, so less stress. It will also look way better!
Thin cast iron, and especially reproduction thin cast iron, isn't strong in stress situations. I bet the builder bought some repro stantions and welded them on with possibly the wrong method. So they were weakened, and the rigid mounted stresses them even more. We're any of these originally stamped steel? Maybe find some of those.
Ive never seen arms like this for roadsters? Do you have a picture? I was assuming they're cheap repro ones its not breaking where they are welded to the body they are breaking where the top chrome stanchion bolts to the lower cast part.
I’m not an expert, but I’m guessing these repro stanchions are thinner than stock. I would weld a maybe a 1/4” steel plate on the back. Looks like there would be plenty of room if trimmed right and should look fine. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Probably half the lower stanchions I've ever seen for sale have been brazed so I would assume it's somewhat the nature of the beast, and I'm talking originals here not repros. It is probably also true that back in the day people put on a good one and stuck the brazed one in a drawer somewhere and that is why they are the ones that show up for sale all these years later.
This was my thought.. I would think that would solve the problem? Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would try it. Also, there looks to be a big gap at the bottom. With some time and effort, a filler panel could be made. I’m pretty sure a true roadster fits tighter all the way around. I’m not knocking your car. Just needs a little more work to get it to work right. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Looks like the upper station is welded to the lower one in this photo, is it? Upper stations are reversed as well the right one is on the left. I'll post photos of stone stock pieces later today. Bob
I agree! I was going to make a filler actually before paint. I appreciate the help! Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes they are and ive always wondered why. I guess since they are on backwards the windshield would move backwards since the stops are on the wrong side. I think I'm going to put them on the correct way and weld some 1/4" plate to them to strengthen them up. Thanks everyone for the help so far! Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
how about cutting the lower stantions out, finishing the cowl top so the stantions are bolted on not welded.... at the same time pull them in to narrow the gap between the stantion and the w/s frame... ford made brass and cast iron lowers... I have a spare pair in brass if that helps...
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