First build so I wanted some opinions. Got the long perches but my lower shock mounts still do not fit. Trim the bones which would require eliminating about half of the upper knuckle or just use a half nut on the bottom? These are 40 Ford bones.
worked in a machine shop the guys were great at sharing knowledge... rule of thumb... 1/2 the diameter... 3/4" threaded shaft - 3/8" of thread in the nut.. being suspension components, which takes a beating, I might go thick rather than thin...
Yeah as alchemy said. The 40 bones are thick there to take the spring in front, but seeing as you have cut that part off and obviously running spring over trim away.
...and maybe reconsider using welded-on studs for lower shock brackets. Those 'Street Rod things hanging under the bones look so Goodguisey...
Cut them thinner, retaper and good to go. I did that to a set on one of my cars. Sent from my SGH-T399 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Not the rules I learned by as a heavy equipment mechanic, there's no way that would be accepted, you'd get your ass handed to you if you went with that rule, ESPECIALLY if there was a failure; the rule is you should have as many threads engaged as the diameter of the fastener, 3/4" fastener should have 3/4" threads engaged.
I posted in another thread with my setup. Didn't like the bolt on deals and spotted this done elsewhere. Was easy enough to do with a pair of universal shock mounts for the style of shock eye you have. if you need more pics, PM me and i'll kick some at you. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/project-29-tudor-in-mass.971966/page-21#post-12097024 Cliff Ramsdell
Down under we are required to generally have 3 threads beyond the nut to show correct engagement, And on something that cant be seen like an internal thread on a hairpin we are required to drill a 1/16 hole in the tube 1 1/2 times the diameter of the internal fastener down the tube to show correct engagement .
I never liked those cheesy lower shock mounts either. So I came up with this. Excuse the dirt, I just went for my last drive of the season, weathers getting crappy here. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My shock mount is a triangular piece of 3/8" plate welded to the front of the axle. It moves the pivot out and down for more shock travel.
Yep that's the way I learned it first from the Ol' Man then again in structural class in design school. I cannot think of anything much worse than a front end failure. Just gives me the shivers.
It wasn't as easy as your pictures made it look but all I have is a Sawzall. Flap discs are your friend! Now all I have to do is figure out a way to cut the 60 degree deal.
When I did mine I just bought a suitably angled countersink bit, and that worked a treat too! I don't have large drill bits to sacrifice and the countersink bit seemed to go at it rather more gently than an drill bit might, which suited my purposes! All in all a neat trick that improves the appearance of the front of the 'bone and gives 3/8 or so of drop. Chris
Nice. I have to admit though, initially .... I thought the thread title was going to be a man-scaping tech'.
Yup. I learned that you always must have at-least the FULL DIAMETER of the fastener as the the engagement. I was also taught that portions of the nut that are not full thickness, like a cone, or a nylock, DO NOT count toward engagement.