Technical No oil pressure with new oil pump

Hello everyone,
I have a chevy 250 L6 in a 1966 chevy C10. I had a problem where the bottom of the distributor shaft snapped off and damage the slot in the oil pump. I replaced the oil pump, and the distributor.
The motor has 50,000 miles on it. I have cranked the motor for up to 15 seconds at a time, and I did that about eight times. I have no oil pressure at the gauge, and no oil coming out of the rockers.
The new distributor seems to be seated. I had to turn the oil pump with a screwdriver to get the new distributor to slot in. I checked the distributor for damage, and I see no problems.
Do I need to prime the pump? Do I need to crank it over more to prime the pump? How long should I have to crank the motor to get oil pressure?
I appreciate any help.
Thank you

 

You should of primed the pump with a drill.

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Yep!!!!!

 

Hopefully you remembered to put oil in it by pouring it in over the lifters coating everything on its way to the pan.
Spin the oil pump with a primer spinner
And electric drill. You can cut off the handle of a wide blade screwdriver and grind to fit the pistol drill chuck.
Leaving the valve cover off you should see the oil come out over the rocker arms.
Ps fill your oil filter cartridge prior to all steps above so as not to create a dead space. Good luck and let me know if this helps.
Rich in Vega$


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I should have mentioned to spin it in the proper rotation which I think is clockwise.


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Thank you everyone. I will cut up a flat bladed screwdriver, and spin the oil pump with the valve covers off.
Thanks

 

If you have a junk distributor you can use it too, take the gear off.

 

Thank you. Unfortunately, the tip snapped off my old distributor, taking the oil pump with it, causing this whole mess...

 

You need to figure out why it snapped off > That is not a normal thing to happen. Then prime your system before you crank it. You may have other issues.

 

Is the camshaft turning? I had a oil pump lock up on a 230 engine. and the fiber gear on the camshaft sheared the teeth. the cam wasn't turning.

 

When you said crank did it start or only crank with the starter? If it did not start remove the cap and see if the rotor is turning, Did the pickup fit tight in the pump?

 

I only cranked it with the starter. I had the 12V and ground disconnected from the distributor. I checked the rotation of the distributor, with the cap off, and it turned correctly.
I am not 100% sure about how tight the pickup was in the pump. The old pickup tube was easily pulled out of the pump. I hope it is not that. I would not love to drop the pan again...

Thank you

 

The distributor is spinning, and this motor has metal gears. So, the gears did not shear.

 

Thank you Old Wolf

 

I am going to second this as I am inquisitive by nature.

I always prime my pump before installation to make sure they work as they are a bitch to replace and a lot of garbage products on the market. Then prime it in the vehicle with a 1/2 inch drill and a priming rod, you will feel the torque if its doing the job.

A lot of motors need the distributer shaft installed in order to allow the oil into the valve train passages so I don't worry too much about oil in the push tubes, I rely on a master oil pressure gauge on the block.

That is why I build my priming tools out of old distributor housings.

 

You could over fill the oil and get the pump in the oil if you pick up pressure you would know it's the pick up. I was given a 300 ford that they didn't tighten the pickup bolts and no pressure but they ran it long enough to waist the bearings . I know the chevy is a press fit but it is easier to pull air than oil.

 

Thank you!