actually you need the reciepts especially if a shop did the work. I just bought a back up 356" for our 422" 1/2 mile dirt track Super/pro stock. It was an IMCA modified alcohol engine which uses similar rules. All iron, flat tappet cam. It had 14.7-1 JE pistons, RHS 220 Iron heads ( not made anymore), Crower rockers, Eagle crank/rods,(not cheap ones), comp cam, correct tappet with oiling holes, and gears, Edelbrock victor manifold, 2 bolt block machined to 4 (best one), Moroso pan, and all reciepts with one race.$3300. I took it all apart since I was going to use MLS gaskets to stone the surfaces and lower the compression 1 point. Inspected everything. It was perfect, I could not have built it for that.
The guy has multiple projects going sometimes you sacrifice one for another, this engine and transmission is in a nova he is trying to sell but I don' want the car so I talked him into separating the 2.
It's hard to trust anyone now days. You almost have to stand over the engine builder to make sure your getting what you pay for. I do most all of my own work but I have never built an engine nor do I have the tools to do so.
I have no idea about the 'quality' of the engine/trans work, but i do think the advice given about it's suitability for your purposes is valid. Observing the choices others have made, and maybe some of my own, clearly it is difficult to underestimate the allure of a "deal that is too good to be true". Ray
If I could do it all over again, I would def do a manual trans. My truck is just boring to drive. If a stick is out of the question than for sure an od unit. I run about 2700 at 65 or so which is fine but gas mileage sucks. I also went for a mild build and wish I had spent the money at the time for a little more power. These are toys after all and no point in being conservative haha....
Some one selling a new "built" engine that they have never started or ran always has me wondering why? Why spend the money and time and never use it? I'm with squirrel I like to build my own so know what is in there and how it is in there.
If you can find a slightly used engine/trans that you can drive around, listen to it run, see how it works, etc then it's not quite as big a risk. Or one that the seller sounds like he knows what he's talking about...
What I mean't was its hard for me to believe a sbc would cost 7500 to build that isn't finished and if you paid 2500 for it now it would still cost much more to make it a street engine plus the time involved. I would go with squirrel's advice
If he lets you listen to it and if it runs out ok, I'd prolly do it. IF the compression is up there, the giant cam will help drop the compression down a bit. I'd dump the automatic trans for a manual. Like you said, the trans [which I'd sell] is worth a good part of $2500 I suppose. Back down the timing a bit, run 91 octane or even set the thing up for E-85 and go with it!
Unless I personally know the builder, the machine shop, and the parts used in the build, I pass. If any one of those items is not known to me, I consider it à possible rebuildable core. There is wisdom in what Squirrel says about building an engine. I build all my own withparts and machine work specific to what I want to end up with.
I would just put a 250 six with a stick transmission in it. Then you can drive it use it and not consume a lot of fuel. Just last Sat I went to a auction and bought a huge heavy load of Farmall tractor parts. 200 mile round trip spent $30 on gas as $2.50 per gallon. Truck has 250 six sm420 trans Dana rear with 336 gears.
I've always operated on the theory that someone else's rebuild should be bought at core prices. If, on the other hand, you really know the builder and his reputation then it then becomes a maybe. Another thing to consider about receipts--are they for the engine you're looking at or for the one the seller unloaded a month ago?
If I bought it I would dis assemble and check everything and replace the pistons or heads. I drove a high compression engine in the late 70s when 97 0ctane pump gas was still sold. The 93 octane available now I don't feel is good enough for more than 10.5/1. There is no way to tell the condition of the engine or transmission if it doesn't run. Some transmission shops have a dyno to test transmissions. Without a warranty you're buying an unknown pile of parts.
It might be a "deal" going by the numbers, but if it's not what you actually need, it doesn't matter. Like others have said basically, you can have 10k in parts in an engine, but have some moron put it together and it doesn't matter. it's junk. New rebuild, not fired up yet, seems like a bad idea.
The Jalopy Journal
