One big reason for running the ruckstell is wheel brakes. Left with only the trans brake and fiddling to find one of 138 gears could cause problems in a growing panic... Modern transmission is the sensible way forward. I have a Volvo M40 as an option. But. It's just not as cool in my opinion This Chevy trans has square inch drives both ends so it will slide straight into a T set up. 2nd gear, I think, will be useable. And it's deffo closed drive
If newer gearboxes are in play, I doubt, the M40 is the best way, as you still end up with a 1:1 high gear ratio. They are ok (but not great. Have broken one in my 221- housing simply cracked open) for up to 120hp, but they are getting hard to find in good conditions too. I have plenty of them (8 or 9 at my last count), but if I were to go through the troubles (shorter torque tube/open drive, re-ancoring rear wishbone/split wishbone), I would (and maybe will be) going with the newer, more durable and by now, cheaper, M47 or M90. But I'm getting of topic- if this is to far astray, let me know, and I'll edit/delete this post, as I meant not to offend anyone.
If I use the M40 then I would be content with no OD but keep the torque tube. That's a must. I'm currently working on a housing to mount the torque tube and UJ on the back of the Volvo. The other consideration for me is, having the chev4 on the T oil pan and lining up the transmission drums with the bands is more difficult than running the T trans direct, without the drums and using a gearbox behind along with mechanical brakes. That was the real reason for considering an extra transmission. To use the T trans I need an unwelcome spacer between crank and input shaft. Then the whole OD thing came along. If I flip the chev box with no T slow speed I have no underdrive...
While helping my son build his '54 Studebaker wagon we both became fond of Borg Warner ODs. I am using a T86 three speed with OD in my '26 Chevy roadster build. I'm adapting a floor shift top plate from a T90. There are tons of old OD transmissions out there to fit lots of bolt patterns. Most ODs from the 30s through 60s were BW units.
OK, You know it's going behind a 153 Chevy four so that will be easier than the old Chevy engines. I didn't really get into the older ones until after I had invested a lot in the 153. I am trying to build the car so that later I can build one of my '28 engines and maybe swap out the newer one. One plan may include a Ford four crank and Durant or Ford rods.
I bought both Andy's Chevy motors and the Olds head, I have a Gerber style special planned but am trying to finish a house renovation just now so it may take some time!
Great and how did I miss your threads? Some fun stuff there. Thanks for the reply I'll be doing some reading there.
After some hiatus I’m back on track-ish All the chassis components are still there waiting in the shipping container. As stated above Blackbob had all my Chev stuff but I now have a ‘25 block and a head. Interestingly enough I came across a copy of the Vintage Chev owners clubs monthly magazine in which it states John Gerbers magneto set-up after he ditched the chain drive from the back of the generator. He got rid of the generator and drove a Bosch DU4 directly from the cam gear using a 26 tooth gear from a Samson truck (which had the 490 motor also) less than a cat in hells chance of finding one of those but then, I thought that about a generator and one popped up on eBay 50 miles from me. Also found a guy here in the U.K. who will weld the cam and re grind it so something more useful. Model A tappets appear to fit the ‘25 block Pistons remain an expensive problem. What the hell has happened to the prices?!! so I’ve decided to take Herbs idea to bolt some discs on top of the pistons and use A rods And I’m still YET to find anyone who will confidently bolt the T transmission shaft to the Chevrolet crank flange with any confidence of accuracy. Any takers?? But it’s nice to be amongst the old scrap again
The Bosch DU4 is a base mounted magneto and is interchangeable with the International Harvester E4A and the F4 and probably many more The IH magnetos are usually clock wise rotation you will need to determine direction of rotation you need they are also driven at crankshaft speed I recommend this book for information on these magnetos I am currently working on a tech article on recharging the magnets on my IH E4A Will be in the antiquated forum on the HAMB so look for it soon Best Regards Todd
Andrew, I just found 2 DU4's mod.2 on ebay. One siad that it was a museum quality. In Florida. Wish I knew how to put up the contact.
There are several/ https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=DU4+Magnito&_sacat=0
Magnetos are not a problem in the U.K. you trip over them in the street Nearly. Regarding the gear drive I woke up in the night with a revelation. Just use a crank gear you idiot….. I like the idea of a bare bones engine, no gen, no oil pump as the flywheel will do that. I’ll do a mock up at the weekend to add some colour to the post
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