Technical 9 inch rear for shoe box ford question

So im looking for a 9 inch rear for my shoebox.
Before anyone starts, yes i know a maverick 8 inch will bolt right in, or a explorer, or ranger, etc.. I dont need that info.
Im looking for a 9 inch because i have a center section i bought from Rider racing a few years ago in my 68 mustang that i spent $1100.00 on. I recently bought a 51 Ford club coupe and i am planning on swapping the motor, trans and center section as well as all the other goodies from the mustang to the 51 ford. Then the mustang gets the stock motor back in it and my wife gets that to drive and is happy(happy wife, life and all that). I cant see leaving that much money in a box on the floor when i could swap rears and use it.
So ive been trying to find inforormation on a 9 inch that will fit, and i saw somewhere ( i just cant find it now that i need it)That someone said a first generation bronco rear was either the right size or alittle shorter. I know that the bronco has the 5 x5 1/2 bolt pattern but i was planning to but new axles from strange anyway, so i can get that sorted out.
I was hoping someone here may have used something similar or actually used the housing from the bronco to put in a Shoebox ford. I can order a used housing for 150 bucks, but i want to make sure its going to work. Im debating on actually 4 linking the rear so not to worried about spring perches, and id like to get as much tire as i can in there. I was offered a Lincoln Versailles rear a buddy has, but i heard it wouldnt fit, then it would, then it wouldnt, everyone had an idea yet no one did it and the rear is an hour or two away from my house. Sorta the same deal with the bronco rear.
Any help you guys can offer would be appreciated.

 

As far as I know the narrowest 9" big bearing is in a 1957ish ford station wagon.
there are sites on the net that will tell you the actual width.
there is probably a thread on the HAMB that will show you this, try a search.
that 51 has pretty narrow wheel tubs, keep that in mind.

 

Thanks, I'll keep looking then.

 

http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/index.htm - try this link - there should be info there to help you - I needed a rear 58" wide and used the Lincoln Versailles - '78 to '81 I think - look under mechanical - IFS and Rear info
good luck

 

Thanks! Checking it out now!

 

Those Lincoln Versaille rearends are pretty scarce and VERY hard to find parts for.
If you do happen to find one make sure it is complete.

 

The rear my buddy has out of the lincoln is complete, has new bearing and rotors and calipers on it. A guy dropped it off at the shop he worked at years ago to have it all redone, paid for it and then never showed up to get it. After a year or so his boss ask if he wanted it. He wants to trade me for a borg warner t 10 that the guy I bought my 51 gave me.

 

If you use the Lincoln disc unit you must be sure to connect the E-Brake cables. Using it is what keeps the Pads adjusted to the Rotor's properly.
The Wizzard

 

I'm only going to go with the lincoln set up if I can get a solid answer on if it's gonna fit with out narrowing it in a shoebox. If it does though, I keep hearing about how much the parking brake set up is a pain in the ass and how exspensive parts are, is this something that can be upgraded to another style set up fairly easily and more affordable? Or am I just going to end up throwing more money at it then it's worth?

 

I have a big bearing rear end out of a low mileage '57 Ranch Wagon w/3:50 gear. It was taken apart a few years ago, cleaned & all new bearings & seals installed. Thought of using it in my '51 sedan but it would be a waste for a flathead. '51 does have narrow tubs - can't use my fender skirts w/chrome reverse wheels.

 

would making the wheel tubs bigger fix that? Or is the tubs to close to the frame as it is? I'm gonna have to get my jack back to I can crawl under this thing this weekend I guess..

 

try - http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Rear-End-Widths.asp#axzz4tuCZgUZA

 

Pipes - I canned the disc brakes and went to drums - Pist-n-Broke is right the e-brake is a PITA

 

What car did you put the lincoln rear in?

 

The Versailles rear end is 58-1/2" wide, 58" if you remove the discs, and run drums. I have one, with drums on it, that was under my A.

Also, the Versailles housing is about the thinnest of the 9" housings ever made. Not sure how well it would do with high horsepower, and sticky tires, if any of that is in your plans.

The 1966-1977 Bronco rear end is 58".

The Versailles disc brake parts are ALL out-of-production, and are getting hard to find, as has been mentioned. There is not a thriving community of enthusiasts driving the Versailles parts market, like the Bronco.

The first generation 9" is 57" wide. Lots of luck finding one. Oh, and those brake parts, especially the drums, are getting hard to find, too.

If you are going to have axles made anyway, have any old 9" housing narrowed to fit your application exactly. Get the wheels and tires you want to run, and make the axle fix that.

 

I used a 69 Camaro in my shoe box 49...its a drop in just weld 1/4 in tabs too the brackets. orig spring is 2 I gm bracket is 2 1/2

 

Pipes I put mine in my '38 chevy truck - I've heard that a lot of people are taking the 8.8 out of Explorers - late 90's and early 2000's and having them shortened - Gimpy is right it's hard to find parts and exact widths needed - I got lucky at a old junkyard near me - I've got calipers and rotors from mine still - I think ? - they're yours for shipping costs - if I can find them - do your homework as you are - although you'll loose the pumpkin you have going with the 8.8" - this is the best place I've ever found for help - HAMB ROCKS !

 

Thanks! I didn't know about the lincoln having a thin housing. The stroker motor out of my mustang is a 347 with 450 horse and 400lbs of torque. I was planning to run a super charger on it but I really don't need it and decided to just keep it at the 450hp. The reason the bronco housing sounded good was I could get the housing for 150 from jeffs bronco graveyard, and then buy some axles to fit my application. A friend of mine says he does have a 9 inch housing around , he needs to locate it if it comes to narrowing one. I was just hoping to find one I could just buy and more or less swap it in the car during the weekend . Guess I'm going to have to find out about getting something narrowed .

 

You're overthinking this car. Get it up in the air (safely!), crawl under there with tape measure in hand and get to measuring! I run a Maverick rear in my '50 and it fits perfect...but I'm far from 400+ HP.

 

im waiting for one of my buddies to drop off my jack and jack stands, but looks like thats what ill be doing this weekend. i was just hoping to see if anyone else swapped one in and what problems they ran into.

 

Pipes, Your not going to find anything that's a direct bolt up drop in. Everything will need a little Nip-n-Tuck at the least. That said my 51 in my Avitar has a 75 Granada 9" in it. Stock width and 8" wheels, no wheel house mod. I did cut and re hang spring pads, NO big Deal. As a builder it just seems part of the Job. I keep hearing what a Pain Lincoln disc units are. Again as a builder I don't see it. Yes you may need to do something but I still believe E-Brake issues are self inflicted by uninformed home builders. Here is a Linclon unit in my 57 Vert. Stock hand brake inside the Car. Housing is Narrowed so that added to work needed it install. Without the 2" block the E-Brake arm hit the spring and could not be installed. That was Not and option. The block became the hanger for E-Brake cable and created clearance needed for arm. The housing was narrowed so I could run 10" wide tires. Again, I didn't see that as any kind of Big Deal. Some home builders can't get there head around that kind of work so it just becomes a Pain in the Ass or a Can't be done problem. It gets down to doing some home work and understanding the job in front of ya. Either you can or can't do it. It's not the Parts that are F--ed up. Some home builders just shouldn't start some jobs. The Granada rear in my 51 has the complete Stock E-Brake cables all the way to the cable arm inside the Drum. Nothing was changed there except putting the cable through the new backing plate.
Good luck with your choice and the Job.
The Wizzard

 

Thanks for helping break it down and the pictures! My biggest set back is i do not have a garage at my disposal ,like in the past. I also dont have unlimited funds where i can just drop my 51 off at a shop and say here fix it. I do have a budget so i have to keep that in mind. What i do have is two good friends that are willing to help me out with use of their garages and equipment. While this is great, both of them are also in the middle of projects. One has a 66 fastback he is preparing to do an engine swap in , the other has a early 50s chevy truck he has chopped and is working on finishing the last few things before he starts finishing bodywork and then paint, and a few motorcycle projects. So even though they are willing to let me use garage and lift and all, Im mindful that they have their own thing going on and dont want to interfere. Where before i could put my car up in the garage and rip out rears,or engines or what ever, and not have to worry about how long it sits there, now its an issue.
I might be over thinking it all, but Im trying to use my time wisely , and be prepared and not have to many surprises where the car ends up stuck up on a lift and Im holding them up. I know they wouldnt bitch to much, but to me, its better to research it first, look at my options then proceed with a plan that works in my favor and time limit.
After all the suggestions and comments i think im going to pass on the Lincoln rear, I just cant see trading it even up for the 4 spd transmission, then having do the same modifications to it I would from something i could prob get cheaper and then have the options of what brakes I want to deal with. Ill just sell the engine with the trans, bellhousing and all and use that money to do the rear end right.
I'll get the car up in the air in my driveway this week end, take some measurements, find out how much room i have. Id like see if i can get wider tires in it, 10 inch would be great! I was already talking to my one buddy about a 4 link for it vs just leafs , so that was something that was on the table. Not afraid of some cutting or welding, though we talked about narrowing the rear ourselves, i think that may be something i farm out.
Thanks to all of you guys, think you gave me a good direction to go.

 

Pipes; Here's some more numbers for ya. I'm running 215-75=14 on the rear on an 8" rim. I have 1/2" between tire sidewall and rear corner of wheel opening. There is 1" between inside of tire and inner wheel house. I drive this thing pretty hard up here in the hills and have rubbed both side of the rear tires (inside and outside). That space will very on what wheel and where the center is. I built my wheels both front and rear for good space and to run the hubcaps. If you really want to keep it simple and get it done go get a V-8 Mustang 8" or Granada 9" cut off those spring pads, throw them away and remove and re use the pads off your existing housing. Your done, move on. Talking 4 Linc is just plain Nutz. You can build a leaf spring to hold your Big Horse motor and bolt them in for far less $$$$ than just Coil Over shocks alone.
To back that up this little AMX has 618 Hp at the rear tires and 596 ft lbs of torque. No wheel hop at all and Leaf Springs. You don't have to brake the bank if you know what your doing. 4 link is trick of the week Motor Mouth crap for a street car as well as most bracket racers. Don't get Sucked in.
The Wizzard

 

I sold a customer a medium duty housing and 32 spline axles from John's then got him the 11X2.5 drum brakes.He had his own gears. It's in his 50 shoe box and he pulls an 18 ft Shasta all over the USA.

 

Take the actual wheels and tires you are going to use; put them in place under the car, and measure between them. Next, get the rear made to this width. Anything else is a guess and may lead to disappointment.


Sent from my Nexus 5X using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Truth.

 

thanks for all the great info! in the end I just want to get the car lowered and faster . I found a picture on facebook shoebox club that i really dig the stance and the wheels he has, but ive no info on the car other then it was at LSRU a few years ago. I guess im going to see what i can find as far as a 9 inch, and if i have to just get it narrowed to what i need. Im sure ill need more advice or questions as im digging around though..

 

#1

#2

#3

#4

#5
#1-3 is normal #4-5 are dreams that can come true but, not cheap & easy

 

Rich B, your dead on correct. I often use this system but only if the project dictates using a specific wheel. Then to go one step further I also mount up the actual tire size I plan to use. Inflated casing width can very some depending on wheel width. When choosing steel wheels or working on a budget steel rims are way cheeper than after market axles.
The Wizzard

 

The faster part is taken care of, since that stuff is already n my possession, its just the lower and wider tires i got to get figured out. Bottom line is I dont mind cutting wheel wells, or modifying the rear if i have to, but i dont want to get into swapping frames or really get into modifying the frame. I had a 59 f100 that had the axle flipped , then some home made notch job that I just didnt like or trust the look of. I dont want the car to lay frame, and put C notches in it because that out of my wheel house. Id like it to sit something like this..

little bit of Custom, little bit of hotrod. Sell off the 283 chevy thats in it now and put in my 302 stroker motor, my trans, and use the 9 inch center section i already have.