Hot Rods 1932 5 window recommendations

Justpassinthru understands. Thanks for the words.

I am NOT building a car to sell, I'm building one to drive as long as I am able to drive. I have NEVER built to suit others, ever. Never built a car to sell, let the estate auction take care of that.

I have built a lot of cars. Some by adding a few parts, some from a pile of bare tubing. I fully understand what is required to build a car, how much money and time it takes and how it's not a money making deal. I'm fine with that.

I still have one more project to sell off then the new parts start rolling in, literally. I have a pro street Ford Fairmont project that needs a new home so I can concentrate on less stuff! Too many irons in the fire currently to get much done on anything.

Selling the Fairmonts (2 cars, 1 money) will leave me with the planned '32, my long time project '62 F100 big window, short bed unibody (Industrial Chassis IFS, 4 bar rear, tilt forward hood, lots of subtle body mods, custom tailgate, etc) and my '64 Micro Midget.

I already have me body and frame money (and more) in hand and anything else that sells is just gravy (parts money) at this point. I could walk out and buy a finished car (have seen several in my price range) but what's the fun in that? I don't like at least 25% of most of the finished cars I'm looking at so why spend money to spend money correcting it. I have a vision in my head that I have to build. I would take a steel body if I stumbled on one (actually have looked at 2 different steel Henry bodies but they would take all of my money to finish) for the right money. I honestly don't care if it's fiberglass or steel, it's more about the look, shape and expenses to go from point A to point B. Realistically, steel willprobably fall outside that $$$ figure. Not going to sweat it on that front.

Going back to my original question, I asked about glass bodies and aftermarket chassis brands because I'm being realistic with what I have to spend and where I want to end up. I didn't ask glass VS steel because I knew what the "steel is real" crowd would say hands down and the cost to buy/build is way more. I have actually heard a guy say "that's Chinese steel, still not real Henry steel so it don't count" while standing in front of a new '32 body at good guys. I could buy steel and STILL piss of that guy....that's why I don't try to please anyone but myself, build for anyone but myself and do what I like and not what everyone else likes.

I do appreciate all the conversations. I am headed to Pete and Jake's Wednesday to talk with them. I've been in conversation with New Age on some body questions. I have looked at a LOT of chassis builders and many of them (the majority really) use P&J front suspension and rear suspension kits so why not just go to the source? They are close to me and sound like they are willing to answer all my questions.

How much difference is there in ARC rails and American Stamping rails? I have seen several that offer either one.

Thanks all!
SPark

 

That Chinese steel probably came from us...

 

A roll down rear window is GREAT thing to have in a coupe, it makes the interior of the car much cooler.

 

When Ionia Hot Rod Shop built my frame/chassis , Dennis preferred to use JW Rod Garage rails over the ASC ones. From what I can remember he felt they were more accurate and easier to work with.

As with the bodies, one thing to keep in mind is that the NAM body has the floor raised on a slight upward angle from the front of the seat to the firewall. No other body maker has that feature that I know of.
With my Flathead engine and T5 trans installed and a stock type firewall, I have a flat floor with no tunnel and a lot of foot room. With an automatic trans and 2 pedals on the floor, its not that big a deal but when you add a third pedal for the clutch, the floor room can get quite cramped.

When I decided to build my car, I wanted to build it with a specific period of between 1950-1955, so I wanted a traditional style chassis of that period. That's why I had Ionia fab the chassis. Granted, I did stray from that a little with a Vega steering box, more modern trans, 68 Ford rear brakes and a tube rear cross member all with the thought that I want the car to drive good.

It doesn't sound like you are trying to build that type car and are not necessarily worried about having a traditional style frame as mine is. I you decide to have NAM build the body, I would have them build the frame/chassis also. I think Ed builds the body on your frame, which would minimize some of the issues I had, fitting the body to my frame, even though any issues I had, were actually minor.

Bill

 

Ran down to Pete and Jake's on Wednesday. Spent some time looking at the fab shop and inventory. Got a lot of questions answered and got a quote on a chassis. Price was no better or (more importantly) no worse than anywhere else. Kind of figuring if almost every chassis I look at uses P&J chassis parts, why not go to the source?

Still learning, still asking questions. Need to sell the Pro Street Ford Fairmont Futura so I have all my room back! Know anyone wanting a cheap pro street roller?

Stay tuned, waiting on a price back from NAM on a complete body with all the bells and whistles (flip out windshield, working Cowl vent, roll down back window, all the handles, etc).

SPark

 

Pete and Jake are about 7 weeks out on delivery right now.

Just got a reply from NAM. Earliest a body would be available, if I committed right now, would be in April 2018. Gives me a lot to consider. Think I'll keep shopping and see what pops us. A couple months more of shopping won't really move a body date back that far, no need to commit right now.

Thanks for all the comments and advice. I really do appreciate all of it.

SPark

 

Don't even think of a TCI chassis. Very unhappy with the one I used.

Gary

 

LM14 I don't know why so many guys want to bend your ear about doing steel instead of glass. Its your car do it the way that makes you happy. On a side note I wanted to point out a 32 chassis on the Ford barn that comes with the proper paperwork. You will save yourself some headaches on the other end of this project if you start out with that. Price was pretty reasonable but there were no pics of the condition. Might be something you want to check out.

 

Have you called Russ No More. Decent body, nice people to deal with

 

I've talked to them.



Thanks for the comments,
SPark

 

Headed to Pete and Jakes Monday and will most likely order a rolling chassis to my specs. Get that part going since I think I know now what I want there.

We plan to drive down to Louisiana the 25th to talk to the folks at Russ Nomore and look things over. I'm concerned with the way they manufacture the interior with the bonded in panels. Anyone have experience with them? Looks a lot more "kitkarish" than the NAM body does. Thoughts?

How about Ravon? Don't hear much about them. Think they lack the drip rails from what I have seen but they do have the flip out windshield, cowl vent and roll down back window.

NAM still looks like the most complete and visually correct body unless I've missed someone in my 20,000 internet searches for '32 5 window bodies.

On a positive note, I've sold more old parts I've been walking around and have upped my budget to around $25 to 27,000 for chassis, body, wheels, tires, grille shell, radiator and gas tank. Already have a roller 302 I've been rebuilding and both an AOD and a C4 sitting here.

Thanks for all the feedback, it really is appreciated!
SPark

 

Chassis is officially ordered! Should be done in approximately 7 weeks. Everything I wanted for about what I planned to spend on one, actually a little less. Got a few pieces chromed but not as much as they quoted. Swapped a few things in and out to get what I wanted. Jason was great to work with.

Engine is on the stand getting water pump/pulley issues sorted out then it will get a basic rebuild. Trany is rebuilt and ready to go.

Headed to Connecticut to meet with Ed at New Age Monday morning. The wife can look at pretty leaves, I can buy a body. Perfect mini vacation! Decided against going to Russ Nomore, body just doesn't look right to me, can't put my finger on it. I want it all, 3" chop, rain gutters, flip out windshield, working cowl vent, roll down back window, manual door windows, stock appearing latches and handles on trunk and door, etc. Ed can do that, just had to convince myself it's worth the wait. I've waited 40 years to do this, what's 7 or 8 months more?!?!?

Wheels Vintiques series 14 wheels are on order and tires should be here next week.

Funny thing is, when I went to my first Good Guys event many years ago, Flatlanders had a glass '32 5 window on display. My wife and I looked at it a long time and talked to them. On the way home, I told her that was on the bucket list. '32 5 window hi boy. That body had everything I wanted. Fast forward thru raising a couple kids, surviving cancer, retiring and dealing with a heart issue..... Come to find out, as I understand it, Ed's molds were once Flatlanders' molds. Things tend to come full circle I guess.

I truly appreciate all the advice, information and links everyone has provided. Great depth of knowledge and experience here.

Thanks,
SPark

 

If not going with steel, you made the right decision. They are the most accurate body anywhere not steel.

 

Some years back my buddy in Bakersfield had a 3W from Flatlanders, very nice body.

 

I think you made a good choice on the body. NAM make a really nice body. I don't think you will be disappointed.

My body has fiberglass drip rails as Ed makes them.
Some fiberglass body makers are now offering the repro steel drip rails from UPAC on their bodies, which were not available when my body was made.
Although the ones ED did on my body look fine, the steel ones would look even better.
My only concern with doing that is the expansion rate of steel to fiberglass is different and I would think they affix the drip rail to the body with panel bonding adhesive. Would there be cracking issues? Might be something to ask Ed about.

I also did not use the fiberglass cowl vent that Ed makes due to there was too much flex and it wouldn't close flush with the cowl with the seal installed. I used a repro steel one from Brookville which was a spot on match to Ed's fiberglass one and fit perfectly and closes flush.

The last thing I did was to use a steel inside header panel from UPAC at the windshield. I did not like how the fiberglass one fit. I did have to make a wood header panel support above the windshield and affix it with panel bonding adhesive, for the header to have something to attach to by the window opening.

Good luck with the build.

Bill

 

My son had a 5w Flatlanders several years ago. Most people thought it was steel.

 

go with a New Age Motorsports body they are the best . mine has been on the road 11 years . no problems and it fools alot of old guys who think its real. Ed is a good guy to deal with.I drove up to his shop to the bodys being built.nothing but the best materials used.

 

Ordered the body at New Age. Got on their list, probably April before they start on it. Got the flip out windshield, working cowl vent, roll down back window, all the handles in and out, trunk prop, etc. Should be a nice piece. Ed and Chris are great to deal with. Made a nice 18 hour drive each way but it was a good time.

Got my Series 14 Vintique wheels today. 15x5 and 15x8. Tires should be here Monday.

Looking forward to actually getting to work on stuff when it gets here.

Thanks for all the info and advise.

SPark

 

Thought I would update my progress.
Chassis is done, heading to Pete and Jakes in the morning to pick it up.
Grille shell and insert from Brookville are here. Very nice.
Walker radiator is here.
Tanks Inc 11 gallon tank is here. Also got the tank gussets.
Got my gauges, steering column, lights, tires and wheels.
Rebuilt the C4.
Got the SBF down to 29" bell housing flange to tip of fan. (Wanting to keep mech fan).
Should be fun!

Thanks to all the responded, I really appreciate everyone sharing their knowledge!

SPark

 

New Age Motorsports has an excellent 5w fiberglass body. Has beautiful gutters, no waves or rippples and very heavily reinforced with meg-thick round tubing. I have a N.A.Motorsports roadster body although I wish I had the coupe now. Cold here in New England. I have close to 7,000 miles on it and not one single stress crack has ever developed.

 

Brought the chassis home last Tuesday. Didn't get a chance to post due to holiday travels and crappy internet.

SPark

 

Nice looking start!

 

Another update. Exhaust mounted, all stainless. Fuel lines routed and most of the clamps in place. Again, all stainless lines with bulkheads on each end of the hard line and switched to -6AN push lock hose on each end. Tranny cooler lines run. Again hard line converted to -6AN PTFE flex lines at the front and hard line the rest of the way back to the tranny. Gaining ground.

Still a few clamps and brackets to make. Finish weld the exhaust. Talked to the driveshaft shop last week and they are waiting on the exact measurement. Need to set pinion angle and get that going this week.

Appreciate all the feedback early on and now we're waiting on a body!

SPark

 

Pete and Jakes are the best. Jerry is top notch.

 

Looks fantastic! Could you give tire details please?
I'm also a weird guy that surely likes the 5 windows better than the 3 window.

 

Put a little bit more loop on the rubber hose from your tank pickup so you can pull the tank out of the way and reach the clamp for removal when the body is on.

 

Pics of rear tire sticker and front tire sidewall below. Rear wheels are 15x8 and fronts are 15x5. Wheels Vintique series 14. Will have ribbed trim rings and 41 to 47 Ford center caps eventually. Haven’t decided on the year yet.

I will have an access door in the trunk floor and should be able to reach it from the top side thru that hole. Will also let me plug the line before removing the tank that way. Gives me access to the tank outlet and sending unit without removing the tank. That’s the plan at least.

Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it.

SPark

 

Thanks for the tire info!

 

Ready to set the body on, as soon as it's done!

Put a sleeve thru the left front upper crossmember tube to ease running the fuel line. Big enough to pull the -6AN fitting thru with the hose connected. One of the drawbacks to the SBF engine is having the fuel pump on the left front. Have to run fuel lines with brake lines and pedal in the same area. Figured this was a decent way of doing things.

Also found a nice fitting set of radiator hoses. Only needed to trim the upper hose a couple inches on one end and the lower hose is the center 90* bend from a long hose I cut up. Look like factory made hoses.

SPark

 

Looking good. You sure have done your home work on this hot rod. Best of luck