Don’t mind my crap drawing but I have an old aftermarket Turn signal switch and I can’t find a diagram with one that has 8 wires what what is happening is my fuse to my flasher keeps burning and I lose tail lights and turn signals but the brake lights are grounded and I get running lights ...also when turn signal is used the gray with Blake stripe and yellow wires are getting warm and the switch wants so smoke ... any advice on what needs to be changed wire wise to make this work I just feel that for some reason that the yellow and the gray with black stripes should not both be getting power from the flasher basically but I have no clue and cant figure out how to apply any other wiring diagrams to this switch Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Start at the flasher; the brake light feed does not go thru the flasher. Looks like SignaStat colors, even if the switch may not; if so this might work: Ign power to X (fused) on the flasher Battery power (fused) to brake light switch Switch wiring Yellow to L (load) on the flasher Grey/black to "cold" side of brake light switch Red to signal light side of right parking light Green to signal light side of left parking light Black to stop/turn side of left tail light Grey to stop/turn side of right tail light You can easily "bench" test the switch with a meter or powered test light to confirm this with-out having to actually hook the wires up.
Find a switch from the 50s or 60s, instead of the 1980s...????? hopefully Rich's answer will get you going.
there is a difference between a diagram and a schematic. this might help you get to the root of the problem.
Here's how to identify the wires if you don't have the color code.... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/turn-signal-wiring-how-to.869492/ It also appears that you have a switch with an emergency flasher function, so that means there's one more 'power' wire (that would come from a dedicated emergency flasher unit) besides the brake and turn wires.
Ok I’m going to read all this tonight when I get back home and I also picked up a new turn signal switch with flasher Just Incase Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
this is what I bought but I would rather try to figure out what’s going on and keep the set up that’s in there Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would like to maybe get a new column that still has a working turn signal Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I am pretty sure that your TB 16-12 switch is turn signal only. with that switch the turn signals run though turn signal only bulbs while the stop and tail use the dual element bulb in the stop/tail lights. That was used with the extra turn lights on top of the fenders on trucks like mine and an extra pair of turn lights on the back. If you have Amazon Prime you can save a buck and Summit's shipping cost. https://www.amazon.com/United-Pacific-5007R-Signal-Switch/dp/B00C6J5BG6 Still you should be able to walk into most parts houses and buy that switch over the counter. At least the diagram and instruction sheet says it will easily do exactly what you want it to do. http://www.uapac.com/_downloads/5007R-diagram.pdf
I got one already I’m about half an hr away from summit but it worked before and I don’t know what happened to make it stop working unless I changed something without knowing Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When a new problem shows up go back to the last thing you fixed. ^^^^ truth^^^^ So even if it seems completely unrelated it can be anyways. What did you work on before the problem showed up?
Just seeing this post and haven't read it all, yet. First suggestion is to be more careful at your crimps and "twist and insert" connections so that you don't have wires hanging out like in the first pic. You don't need to be creating your own problems. I do see that several very knowledgable and helpful people are posting.
Good suggestion there. I've seen that happen too many times. A couple of my own doing when I got in too much of a hurry.
Yes and I have no clue how to use most of the features haha ...I can use a test light like a boss though hahaha Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That’s the turn signal switch that has been on the car for the last 10yrs I’ve had it and probably been on there before I was born haha and I did notice how a lot of wire seamed exposed and if I knew that set up I will be getting some of the liquid tape and I think that would be a good option to clean it up and not really mess with anything Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Attached is a 1959 Desoto wiring diagram. Use this with the following connections: Vehicle Switch Function Dark Green Gray Left rear turn/brake Brown Black Right rear turn/brake Tan Red Right front turn Light Green Green Left front turn Red Yellow Flasher "L" terminal White Gray/black Stop light switch Pink 12 volts side of stop light switch Black Flasher "X" terminal from ignition 12 volts
Your description is confusing: "fuse to my flasher keeps burning and I lose tail lights and turn signals ". Tail lights are on a different circuit than the flashers, which work on the turn signal circuit. Then you say: "but the brake lights are grounded" (what does that mean?) "and I get running lights". So you lose tail lights but you get running lights. I don't follow you. "gray with Blake stripe and yellow wires are getting warm and the switch wants so smoke". Heat indicates current draw exceeds supply, or the ability of the components to handle the current. The components are engineered to work with with greatest demand the circuit can experience under normal conditions, x2. The blown fuses indicate there's a short circuit somewhere. According to your drawing, the yellow wires supply current for the turn signals, the grey/black wires only supply current when the brakes are applied, so I don't know why the grey/black wires are getting warm when the turn signals are activated, except that they are in close proximity. Do the wires get warm when only left or right signals are activated, or both?
Yes, I agree with confusing descriptions! It would not matter if the gray/black and yellow wires are shorted, as the directional signal switch is simply a multi-pole "hi side switch" which then feed the bulbs. Now if he had a short somewhere to ground, then that would cause fuse blowing. If he is using a common flasher, then no ground is involved, only the bulb loads. My guess is that the OP will simply install a new switch and never know what he did wrong.
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