For those in to three Springers and weird speedster stuff. If I got a 1946 Chevy 3 speed gearbox with syncros, from a pick up, and wanted to adapt a Ford Model A torque tube to my gearbox, anybody got any ideas and or advice on the matter? I've be contemplating to run the Ford tube to avoid to go for a open conversion on the box, where no parts are available. Rear end is a Nissan item, but I got that covered.
sorry i never mixed the early ford and early chevy stuff so i don't know. i was hoping someone who has done it knew. on a 3 springer i always thought it used a ford front end and a chevy parallel spring in the rear, but i guess it could be either way.
The ones I refer to is pre-war dry lake racers setup made to go fast and get rid of the pre-1928 Chevy rear ends that broke like glass. Under even hard driving (racing) with stock engine. The setup you referees to, I belive is a postwar thing. But good nonetheless. I just thought between you and your cousin, you would have the parts in-house to do a mock-up.
i don't have a lot of ford stuff around here but i can see if i can scrounge up a torque tube and try it against the 37 chevy tranny i have here.
Thanks Ted! Maybe @ct1932ford can help? I doubt them 3 springer guys had much CNC tools and 3D printers around
I been thinking about these two guys, because they are so knowledgeable. But I have no idea if this is with in there area. But here goes @pgan @Rockerhead And maybe @Jimmy B Knows something?
GM was using a torque tube into the '50s. With all the pieces in one place it shouldn't be that hard to mix n match and a little machine work to get it all to mate.
It seems to me front end of the Ford tube & shaft have to be cut off, then replaced with the slip yoke, ball & socket from a Chevrolet. As the yoke in the rear of the Chev trans holds the top train in place, making changes up there would be risky.
Valid point, 302. But, since the Chevy is a two piece deal, I can unbolt the Chevy U-joint, and hope I can chuck the Ford rear part of the yoke, and install Chevy U-joint between the two? I got a deal on for rear with torque tube, and can get a ride-along for it too, but it's a lot of parts to buy just to get the prop shaft, TT and half a U-joint.
Im thinking about getting these items second hand; Get one of these used, Ford Model A U-joint And 3/4 tons '46 Chevy U-joint and see what needs to be changed around. What is the weak link in the Ford tube, that can/must be beefed up in the Ford TT? I'm putting a '54 235 Chevy car Engine in front.
I think I have a U joint in my going to Hershey stuff. Beyond that I don't have much around that you could use. I do think 302 has the right idea. Mark
If the Chevy torque tube was available, I would have run that, but I can't seem to locate anything. Isn't the Chevy the same in the basic design, but different in the specific look?
on the chevy the bell slides, on the ford it is fixed so it can keep the rear from moving front to back.
Dadgumed I forgot to factor in that spring stretch and moves rearend front to back. I'm glad I asked before if started chopping and fabricating. So I have to fin a Chevy rear end. Thanks guys!
Dadgumed I forgot to factor in that spring stretch and moves rearend front to back. I'm glad I asked before if started chopping and fabricating. So I have to fin a Chevy rear end. Thanks guys!
Volvo, just so I understand, you're using two springs up front, and a Ford transverse spring in back, correct? I was not getting about how the rear spring (s?) allow the rear end to move forward & back. If you're not married to using the A rear end, you might look for a mid-40's Ford truck rear, maybe as early as '41, but by '46-'48 they had a truck rear with the banjo & bell type side tubes, that also used an open driveline connecting to the pinion. maybe this would work for you? K6
I'm using 4 springs in the car, I just wanted to know how guys like Spurgin got a ford rear behind his Chevy transmission. Because the Chevy rear ends ain't that available over here. So I wanted to put a Ford Torque tube between my Chevy 46 pick up 3 speed and the Nissan Hardtail. And for that I needed some 3 springer info. But in my eager, I forgot to count in that two rear springs with shackles makes the rear and move back and forth♂️ Between the stuff available it's either Option 1; 525 $ 34 car rear end, I don't know if iTT fits my box. Option 2; 375 $ 31 truck rear, should fit my box, but I have to path a bridge that sets me back another 80$. Option 3; locate a 47-51 3/4 ton torque tube/propshaft setup, and habe it shipped to Denmark. And please note that a 1928-31 ford rear end goes for 120-180$, that's why I looked at the fords first.
The ♂️should have been an facepalm emojicon. But it shows as a male-symbol/iron malm/Volvo symbol on my end
Back in the day, Don Montgomery ran an enclosed toque tube when running the 12 port Jimmy in the 32 3 window. The Jimmy had a Buick transmated to it. He used the Ford outer tube as it boltrd up to the trans, and mated a Buick end to the inner drive shaft. A few years ago I bolted a Ford clam up to a Chev gearbox, so it is possible to do it with the parts you envisage using. The Chev universal is quiet small and will take less punishment than the Ford one. I know because I destroyed my fair share driving a 54 Chev.
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