I was able to acquire 4 '35 Ford wire wheels I want to use on my latest project. They look pretty good (no obvious problems), but they all have at least 2 layers of paint that hinders a close inspection that I want to remove. I do have a large blast cabinet, but feel that while blasting may be a good way to finish this project, using it from the start will be a big job. I am leaning towards using paint stripper, but that seems messy, and with the price of stripper these days, it could get expensive. Ideally what I would want to do is get some cheap stripper (or something equivalent), put it in a large tub, and let them set for a day. I would then power wash them and finish them off in the blast cabinet. The only unknown is what to use as stripper. Is there a commercial concentrate out there? Or perhaps some chemical one could buy in bulk? With aircraft stripper at around $20 a gallon, I am hoping there is something cheaper.
Another vote for the blast cabinet. You'll end up doing pretty much the same amount of blasting either way, why deal with the mess of paint stripper? You could save some blasting time by stripping the accessible parts of the rim with Scotchbrite discs, but that'll just run the costs up.
Sand blast them but do it outdoors,the cabinets just don't have the big nozzles to do some serious stripping. Besides the cabinet is too slow. HRP
I've done a bunch of big stuff (Including a rear end housing) in the cabinet, and would rather skip that experience again. I have been doing some research, and find that paint stripper is really just enhanced Lye. I'm going to be looking into this. (I know, I know, be verrrry careful with Lye.)
First you need to decide which you want, cheap or easy? Cheap is blast them yourself Easy is drop them off at a shop and have them blasted, maybe $25 each?
In the interim, I've done some "Google" searches on Lye as a paint stripper. Interestingly, a preponderance of them led back to the H.A.M.B. From what I can see, it is cheap, easy, and DANGEROUS. I'm gonna pursue this.
Lye works good Protect your eyes and skin Render it neutral after you're done with some vinegar, let it all evaporate out when finished and throw the solids away in a plastic bag in the garbage I've done it many times Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Seen some threads that Les Shcwaab is powder coating wheels for 30/each...surely they'ed be blasted beforehand?
Locally, here in Brainerd, Minnesota, I was quoted $50 (and up, depending on what they found) each just for blasting. After I heard that, I didn't even ask about powder coating. When I lived down in the cities, there was a place in Shakopee that would do the whole thing for $25 each. That was 20 years ago though. Their work was fine for a dump truck (their usual customers) or maybe even a daily driver, but it really wasn't up to my standards.
Yep, lye works but nasty stuff. TSP will soften up non catalyzed paint as well.....dunno how it works on multiple layers tho...
You might check with the powder coater you intend to use. The powder coater I use insists on blasting the wheels himself and the immediately powder coating them. I guess he had a problem with people blasting their own wheels and allowing rust to form before they delivered them to him. Charlie Stephens
If your pressure washer puts out something north of 3000 psi then you might try it first to see if it'll take off the outer coats of paint. Mine is 3300 psi and I've found in fooling with heavy equipment with auction special paint jobs that the washer will take off 95% or more of any paint that was put on without thoroughly de-glossing the original paint. Re the lye.... I haven't looked for any in the grocery store in quite a while, but I've heard some of them don't keep it any more due to the fact that the meth cookers use it. You might have to go to a chemical supply house to get it. They will typically have it as sodium hydroxide. Also, if any automotive machine shops in your area still use a hot tank instead of one of the hot water wash cabinets for cleaning engine parts, a hot tank will make short work of paint. Most of them use solutions made by Oakite that are primarily lye. The few times I've had stuff hot tanked, the cost was cheap considering the work it saved.
I just actually did a set of 4ea 1935 wire wheels. These were real rusty. It took me a long time in my blasting cabinet using Aluminum oxide #25 grit. When done these were clean as new . Taking mine down to the local powder coaters and having them painted satin black to put on my 35 Pick up. With Paint stripper I would be concerned of not getting all the stripper neutralized and later start lifting the paint. Blasting in a cabinet for me was the best way to go. Vic
My next set of wheels are stock 1957 Chevy wheels. Going to use my blasting cabinet on these also. Will be much easier that the 35 Ford wire wheels I just did . Vic
I did a set of wheels for my '51 Ford a couple of years ago; that experience is what has me looking for something easier. I have my own powder coating setup with an oven juuust big enough for one wheel. As said earlier, my problem is not rust, but multiple coats of paint, that was just "slopped on" on a couple of them.
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