Projects 1940 Chevy Sedan big block project

Tough to keep it that "nice" in rainy Corvallis.

 

True. Could just grow moss on it.

 

Well I found this at the local pawn shop today. Too good a deal to pass up. Yeah I know it's a little 120 machine and I'm going to outgrow it fast. To be honest I'll probably only use it on sheet metal and leave the structural to a pro.


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I was looking at the frame yesterday and it looks to be well under 3/16 wall thickness Anyone know what gauge metal was used in it? Maybe 10?


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^^^ don't know but it was the box design that gave it it's strength,...I've clipped a few of those style frames but not like that one was....if you were determined, that set-up could be saved, it'd just take some labor and know-how.,..it'd have to be cut back apart and redone.
...it mite be faster and better to get a nice 40 frame and go the Must. II route,...Chassis Eng. makes a bolt-in unit.

 

Yep. Could be. There's a shop in my area that does this kind of work and I have to pick up our chipper there today. I'll ask them about fixing/redoing what I have.


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Well I've been distracted lately but am preparing to tackle the body repair. However I've run into an issue. The profile of my doors is way off at the bottom from the rear quarters.
The rest of the door looks reasonably close. I think there is some sag in the body that would account for gaps around the door but I'm flummoxed about the bottom of the door. It's the same on both sides.


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take a few pics from further away...maybe show us the firewall again? If the firewall has been cut out, then the bottom of the door hinge pillars might have spread apart, causing this problem. Or if big chunks of floor are missing (or were replaced badly) that could cause it.

 

Thanks. I'll get better pics tonight.


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As far as the front suspension goes, consider talking to Fatman in N.C.. He does front subframe stubs that might allow you to use the main chassis you have, just cutting the clip you have off. His stuff is Mustang II based. I've got his front end in my Anglia, and am very pleased with his stuff.

 

Hard to tell what they charge for the frame stubs. I'll call em but I think I may just run the nova front end.


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Talk to them, can't hurt. They're good people. Nothing wrong with what you have, you just might need a good fondle. You'll do fine.

 

and NOW you understand, WHY it was given to you..

 

best wishes on the cool project. Love those sedans, rock it bro!

 

If you cut the nova stub loose, move it ahead 1.5", level it, measure it side to side, diagonally and reweld it, it will be every bit as good as the thousands of other 40 chevys with nova rear-steer subframe grafts. If you don't trust your welding, have a pro weld it up. Your life and everybody else on the road with you depend on good welds.
I used a mustang front under my 40 coupe with a Chassis Engineering rear spring kit and a 9 inch ford axle. It was all pretty straight forward and I felt like a responsible adult for using good parts/practices.

 

With respect to the door alignment I think both doors are leaned in at the top and out at the bottom which seems easily fixable.

 

Yup.

 

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/unbe...ewriting-the-rules-of-endurance-rally-racing/

Anyone seen this? I think I have a new direction.

 

That frame is completely unsaveable, and it's a major accident waiting to happen. Go find yourself a stock frame and use the body. I'd also pitch that 454 in a lake, or at minimum in a muscle car. A SBC, Chevy I6, hell, even the Plymouth flat six sounds cool. Sometimes free is too expensive.

 

yer cruel,
but un-varnished truth...

 

Un-savable ? After seeing the amount of fabrication that happens I'd say almost nothing is unsavable. Is it worth saving is the question. I am tending to agree about the 454 though. It's going to make this thing pretty ridiculously bad on gas and front heavy.


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found a 1947 parts car locally. I know (and have hear many many times) that the 1940 was a 1 year only frame. However I have also hear that the frames were "similar" from 1940-1948. Does anyone have any useful input on how similar? Are we talking close enough to make it work with some relocated mounts, minor floor mods etc? The parts car in question is within my budget and has a solid 4 door body, lots of fenders, frame suspension etc, so I plan to pic through and buy what I need on Thursday if folks on here think it could work. I've had two very good offers for frames from folks on here and I appreciate it, but they are all located too far to pick up and shipping is well more than the price of the frame ( still good options if all else fails).

 

Based on the measurements on the old chevy page it looks close. Rear frame width is within an inch. Front looks to be the same. The main difference is the amount the frame sweeps up over the rear axle. That's 3" higher in the 41-48 frames than the 40 and earlier. This would mean that the trunk floor would have to come out and that's the only solid floor I have. But it would be sort of like a built in lowering I think. Going to go see it in person this weekend and will report back.


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Went to check it out. The car was in great shape. Too nice to steel the frame. Event for $100. Plus it's not close enough. Rear axle hump is too high and it's too long. However I met a great guy who gave me encouragement and advice and he owns a media blasting shop and his son is a powdercoater. So it was a morning well spent.


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Nice

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Pulled the passenger door in preparation to rebuild the door hinges. Discovered part of the reason for the bad alignment. Looks like this car got hit on the passenger side and someone cut the door up. Same for the inner body behind the door. Drivers side is good so I'll use that for reference. Also ordered a bead roller and some sheet metal hammers and dollies from Jegs.

 

Oh. The floor support bracing was cut through and rusted. Any recommendations on whether to use channel or rectangular tubing?

 

made some progress. Decided to pitch the old frame, the nova stub went to someone that needed the parts, the rear frame rails I kept for now.i have a cunning plan for them.
I'm made a decision that's going to piss of the traditionalists (everyone?) and may cause me to move this thread to another site but I don't care. It's my car.
I located a running Chevy s10, yeah yeah yeah I know.....but wait, it gets worse. It's a 4x4. I was inspired by the stance of those rally cars I shared earlier. Got the s10 gutted and the frame most of the way under the body. It fits really well between the rockers. My wife did some photo shopping of the idea and I really like it. Always thought that the Chevy sedans looked weird low, plus like dirt roads, snow and camping so I figured why not build a car I'll use and enjoy. It won't require me to cut up the body beyond fabricating all the parts that are rusted out anyway so if I want to change it in the future I can.

Anyway, stay tuned for photos later this week when the deed is done and it's sitting on the frame. And like my grandma said, if you can't say something nice don't say nothing at all.

Oh but I do want to run a straight six, any thoughts on 250 vs 292?

 

If your already running s10 frame why not keep 4.3L? Or just do v8 they fit very well in s10 frame.

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Not hearing a lot of good things about the 4.3. Also i have a soft spot for inline sixes and my 4.3 needs a rebuild anyway so why not build a motor I like. I just can’t get excited about a 350 and the 454 i have is heavy and way too much motor for regular driving.

There’s a guy up north of here with a running 292 that I may look at this weekend and I’ve seen some 250s on Craigslist for a reasonable price.


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