I am trying to set the initial timing on a 40 flathead, and don't have a KR Wilson fixture to use on my diver's helmet distributor. Anyone in NJ with one willing to lend one out, or lend out their expertise for an hour or so? The car is in Toms River, but I can bring the distributor to you. I am more interested in doing it or seeing it done then sending it out for someone else to do it. Also, if there is an interest, I am happy to measure one of the fixtures print a few with the 3-D for other members to use... Thanks in advance, Jon
I can help, but not instantly...my life is real damn complicated right now, wife is very sick and I'm buried in crap paperwork for retiring. So... A. I can find you good instructions for "ruler" timing with illustrations by Ford. Easy stuff, I just have headachy problems moving from front view to rear view... B. I can eventually come up with instructions on here somewhere for my magic Home Depot dwell tool...just need to search a bit, and since I am too primitive to post pics you need to move from verbal description of the thing. C. I can meet you somewhere, I'm in Northern NJ, and bring Dr. Wilson along. Need a bit of time to dig out stuff I've already posted here and on Ford barn. PS...one of the sources for ruler timing is a 1930's Ford patent with everything you need for the Helmet...apparently Ford was considering welding a timing fixture with several ingenious attachments to the firewall of '33-4 Fords! And...back in the real world...if you just put the timing scale on its center line, you are close enough for all practical purposes! Bruce, Millburn and Madison.
The '42-8 method is of course different from that for '40 and '32-41 but does explain the idea well. Here's the drawing of the helmet ruler method from a 1934 Ford patent...the method as shown by Bill M above can be readily deduced from this drawing and the others in patent US1963657. I was surprised when I spotted this patent...it also has further neat ideas like a cotterpin through the drain so it can be used with visual from the actual spark. I immediately timed a '34 distributor with it, then compared to results on same with a late KRW fixture and one of the cheap aftermarket timing plates, the sort that looks like a ping-pong paddle, and got 100% same result on all within the resolution limits of my eyeballs. Obviously Ford had gotten flak on the lack of an obvious timing method on the flathead, came up with this, and likely quashed the idea for production as the first version of the fixture was going out to dealers at about the same time. The whole writeup and other drawings on this patent US1963657 are quite interesting! And if you are new at this, DO note that the drive tab is NOT symmetrical and you need to have the ruler on the fat side! First published use of the ruler method I've seen was in a 1946 manual...I strongly suspect it was released as a WWII field expedient to support the thousands of Canadian Fords at war in North Africa, maintained by hastily trained conscripts from all over the Empire and not a KRW agent in sight in Libya. Now, go find the recipe I once posted on building a dwell fixture with a Home Depot degree scale...
Jon, Its a bit of overkill to use the fixture. Just set the contacts at 16-18 install and put the timing adjustment in the middle. I assume it runs now ???? Is there a problem.???
I have a friend that is the go-to guy for setting up flathead dist. near me. I am I Lehighton Pa. 18235. Clinton isn't too far. He uses a machine. He is reasonable. Message me for his contact info.
DO note that these Fords did fine through the Great Depression and WWII, maintained by Farmers, draftees, and all sorts of people in parts of the planet with no dealer in sight. Many had almost nothing beyond the car's OEM tool kit and a Western Auto feeler gauge. They did, however, have access to thoroughly developed and inspected Ford points and points from several GOOD aftermarket suppliers...now we have to gamble on various third world importers. Badly made points in a dual point setup especially make it impossible to get both proper dwell and proper gap, or proper relationship between the 2 point sets. Not to mention problems with the actual contacts, problems with rubbing blocks that last under a thousand miles, etc. Checking dwell (total and individual) after setting gap gives you some idea where you are AND a better understanding of how this ancient high tech actually works!
can the early flatheads be fitted with the other type distributor? I found that early one to be a pain when I was helping a guy get his car going after a long sit.
Thanks for the offer. I am sorry to hear about your issues...and hope it all turns out well. I am going to try to ruler method and see how it works.
As I noted, for timing the ruler got the same result as I got with the fixture. When done, look at the scale on distributor...you should see it right about mid range, and if not likely you screwed up and used wrong side of the tab or some such. This stuff is usually dead nuts because Ford held all the dimensions to very tight standards, and with the Ford design the distributor shaft is one piece that does not move at all in its relationship to engine cam. All running timing movement is handled by distributor cam turning on the shaft. It would be pretty easy for me to put the KRW machine and pop down to Clinton on a weekend. The Form and notary stuff is dying down, and wife is on an uptick I think.
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