Projects Phoenix reborn. Model A rebuild after near fatal accident.

That is a good idea. Right below the rear glass where the deck lid meets, there is a slight low spot on both side. Sort of like crushed a oil can.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I think as the force of the impact went into the body it pushed the roof up and back. Looks like it did from the kinks over the B pillars and the fact the top of the quarters dropped down like that. Take measurements on the door opening and compare it to a stock non hit coupe at front and rear of opening. Also check the floor rails at the B pillar. If the roof went up I would be willing to bet so did the sub rails at that point. If you can some how brace the top at the B pillars and bring the roof down to square up your door opening it might help with the kinks in the roof and the quarters. Fitting the cowl may be another story after doing that though... A lot of metal to move around there but not impossible.

 

Dude I believe you are correct. Looking at some previous pictures I can see where the roof could have shifted rearward and caused the bulge in the rear quarters.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

The sheet metal on this car has suffered greatly between this build and the previous one.

 

Finally had a free Sunday to tinker in the shop. Decided to get started piecing together the rear axle. I'm going with a 41 banjo. I've collected enough banjo parts in the past 4 years to build one good one. The gear ratio comes out at 3.63? Anyone know a good place to buy bearings and gasket kit for these?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Still had enough time in the day left to tear into the mercury flathead I pulled out of this 51 F2 a couple years ago. Tried to get in running last year but no luck. Ran compression check on cylinders today. 60,90,60,30 on RH bank and 30,60,30,0 on LH bank.
Pulled the intake and verified no stuck valves. Ran a leak cylinder leak down test on cylinder with 0 psi of compression and found air leaking into crankcase(stuck rings). Went ahead and pulled the heads to inspect. I am very satisfied with the condition of the cylinder walls. Standard bore 3 3/16. Guess it's either gonna be a rering or complete build



Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Tear down progress this weekend


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Only one cracked valve seat.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Hi Swiss
How is progress? Long time no heare. I was a bit away due family pause. But now back for wrenching.
What's about you?
Regards from Switzerland.
Dani

 

As a retired truck driver but a panelbeater/spraypainter in a previous life, the bent chassis has forced the firewall up and bent the body like a banana. It's too late now but before cutting the firewall off you needed to bolt the cab to a jig and pull the front back down while applying a touch of heat to the kinks in the body. I know it doesn't help now but the information might help others that tackle something similar.
Build or borrow a frame jig and bolt down the front and rear and jack up under the rear bulkhead area while GENTLY warming the body kinks with a gas torch. Hopefully that excess in the quarters will reduce. Don't let the pressure off till everything cools down. You might have to do this several times. Good luck.

 

Spanners is right; when repairing any kind of body/frame damage you want to pull things back into shape before cutting anything apart.
As I see it you have two options; take the body to a frame shop and have it pulled back into shape, if you can't afford that, see if you can find an AA truck frame (or any big truck frame from the '40's-'50's) to turn into a body straightening jig. If the body is bent up like a banana at both ends, you'll have to "elevate" the body using 2 x 4 blocks in the middle, then draw the ends of the body down using long bolts, working the wrinkles out as you go. If the top needs to be pulled forward, you'll have to weld or bolt a "post" to one (or both) of the frame horns so you can have something to pull to. All is not lost, don't give up now.

 

Thanks but I no longer have this body. Let us go to a more ambitious owner.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Hello, wie gehts?

Yes I have also been away from building hot rods for a couple years. Mostly busy with work and family. November of 2018 wife and I took trip to Europe and spent some time in Zurich! Loved it!! We will be back.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.