Projects rebuilding after the crash

I figured Jackson could help you out being his junk wouldn't make much of a show anyway.

 

Careful now. We were talking about nitro. I will be working on him over the off season. It might not take too much to turn the guy into a nitro junkie.

 

Guess I'm going to have to go back and read this entire thread. What's this about running gasoline with 50% nitro all the time?


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its one or the other. gas on efi for the street and nitro with a mag for the track. everything goes faster with nitro even street coupes.

 

Brian it was no trouble at all plus I know if I was in your neck of the woods you would do the same and I really wanted to see the nitro run lol and it won't take much to talk me into nitro lol I'm just not quite ready yet got some more learning to do first


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Hes goin to need some kind of help.

 

Fantastic job getting the car to drive there and back, and getting your name on the cup! I've been on the road so I missed the updates...

and for explanation: he runs alky mixed with the nitro, eh? The gasoline system (for the street) is completely separate.

 

Brian how exactly do you disengage the mag and nitro pump I know you have a offset dual drive I never give much thought to that as I'm sure it would take a toll on it just running it all the time with the mag grounded out and fuel pump looped with some lubricant in it


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I will get some pics tonight when i get home from work. It will be easier to explain with a picture.

 

Right on thanks


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squirrel maybe you need to put the hamb drags on the bucket list. your car would be perfect for the yahoo cup.

 

I took my 55 a few years ago. There are just too many fun things going on this time of year and it's a long drive to all of them.

 

Brain wish I would have had time to come look at the car. But I did get to see a couple passes from outside our Pitt on push road. Very impressive piece of machinery.

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thanks for all of the compliments everyone. we had a lot of fun at the hamb drags. the event should be on every ones list of must attend events. the event had a real cool vibe to it and the cars were top notch. the people involved with the show and at the show are top notch. the best you will find any where. with the hamb drags in the rear view mirror its a all out effort going forward for the quickly approaching drag week. we have been fighting a issue when the car is run for a extended amount of time under extreme heat conditions. we have tried several things to improve the situation. they have all worked to some extent but have never totally cured the problem. that problem being oil pressure control. we run aluminum rods for durability. the big end grows as the rod heats up changing the rod to crank clearance. the result is the oil pressure dropping to very low levels at idle. eventually dropping down to 10lbs. the roller rockers need 25 pounds of pressure minimum. this problem has been causing damage to the pushrods and adjusters. we have a killer titan oil pump that can support a full tilt nitro hemi under normal racing conditions or a street car with steel rods. but our deal is anything but normal conditions. making the crank journal larger could seize a bearing in cold conditions as it will get smaller. I know people who tried that with disasterous results. I do live in Wisconsin. I reached out to a manufacturer of very custom race parts for a solution. they are very aware of what we are doing and what we want to accomplish. they have worked with me in the past using the car as a r and d test vehicle. they offered to do the same this time. parts are on the way with the hope of getting them on the car by the end of the week so testing can begin on Saturday. partnering with these companies like I have several times now not only helps my car but helps everyone building a hemi. newer better parts are developed to keep these 50 plus year old engines running and remaining competitive for years to come. with todays technology these engines are being subjected to loads never heard of in the old days. its nice to know there are companies out there willing to invest time and money into our engines we are so fond of. pics and updates coming soon.

 

LOL the @raven ran right over the top of it, I guess when you are using a cup that was originally found dead on the side of the road a little steam rolling by a HAMBer won't hurt it much.

 

wrench bender the way it works is like this. The cam gear gets a drive spud bolted to it. A hex shaft slides into the spud. A pump extension goes over this shaft and bolts to the timing cover. A sealed bearing inside the extension supports the shaft end opposite the cover. There are pieces bolted onto the extention and dual drive. They are called wafers. There is also a role pin to index the two halves of the wafers. Thats what all of the little holes are for. the role win can be seen.The raised outside edge of the wafer has a beval cut. When the wafers are brought together a billet clamp is attatched holding it all together. The hex shaft engages the dual drive turning both the mag and pump. The clamp allows for quick disassemble. The setup is rather heavy so its supported when not engaged. I dont want the dual drive spinning unless we are racing. I dont want wear and tear on the components. As long as the engine is turned over to 36 degrees before disassemble and returned to 36 degrees before reassembling it all goes back together quickly. The rotation of the pump and mag have to be correct or they may end up running backward. We use readily available parts then modify them in a way they were not designed to be used. If i had it all connected on the street the tank would have to be full of something to make sure it didnt run dry. Its plumbed in a loop so the fuel can go round and round under no pressure putting no wear on the pump. The mag on the hand will get worn out or out of adjustment if set to run all day. The points like any others need to be adjusted at times. the mag has a clamp that allows me to rotate it to correct timing if its needed. the pump has a special clamp that can be loosened up for quick pump removal. i hope this explains the dual drive. if not ask more questions and i will do my best to answer.

 

Amazing what you are doing! It's cool to follow along..

 

Right on brian thanks I didn't realize that you unhooked it like that I fully understand how it works and I can appreciate the making things work the way you want not always what they were designed for I could go on and on with technical questions about your setup I'm very interested and intrigued with it especially with how you tune the mechanical side of things the electronic side is no sweat for me as I have delt with electronic injection for decades but mechanical stuff im still learning and want to get good at it and if you ever decide to dust off the ol 65 s/fx you have a crew member eager to learn the process lol thanks for all your info


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would E85 on the street assist with your cooling? Food for thought

 

I have thought about that. the problem with e85 is its very inconsistent at the pump. it would create a tuning nightmare. race e85 out of a drum is a different story.

 

perhaps you could run pump E85 on the street, where tuning is not so critical?

or haul some race E85 with. It isn't as if you don't have a big enough truck and trailer!

back in 2007, when I ran Drag Week on a very similar route, I had fuel stashed along the route at friend's shops. Sure saved me some $$$ and I knew what I was getting.

 

as you know we run the nitro on the track. the e85 would be for the street. the big trailer can haul drums of fuel. the little trailer has very limited room due to hauling nitro and alchohol jugs. i think this weeks oiling improvements will cure the problems. the car will be driven to its limits this weekend to test things out.

 

" the car will be driven to its limits this weekend to test things out.[/QUOTE]
Brain,
Does that mean you will be at the Cheaters event on Saturday?
https://wisconsinhotrodradio.com/event/17th-annual-cheaterama/

 

Jim its very possible. We are changing oil pumps. The new experimental oil pump will be a two stage gear pump. This is the latest technology for nitro cars. I will be able to set the minimum pressure at idle and set the max pressure limit. This is done on a flow bench and is set and ready to go. The gears are made out of 70 series aluminum. This allows trash to embed into the gears without locking up the pump. It can handle serious trash like valve spring tips that break off etc. The drive is a hex shaft thats larger than i had before. Its custom made to clear my stroker crank counter weights. It will bolt on to a stock rear main cap. Its been flow tested against the pump i took out three days ago. If for some reason the pressure still drops it will go back for a set of longer gears for even more volume. Its alot of work to pull the pump a few times but thats part of the r and d. We are very serious about this developement and will do what ever it takes to get the results we are looking for. The pump should arrive friday. It should bolt right in. If all goes as planned then we will be at the cheaterama. Call me if you are going.

 

oh, this sounds very technically interesting.

 

I guess because of the nitro, steel rods are a no-go.

 

As soon as the testing is done i can get into more details and post some pics. I have asked if it was ok to post some pics and they want me to hold off for a little bit. I will say this it does not look like anything else out there. It has a shape all its own with some unique features.

 

The aluminim rods provide a cushion. They act like shock absorbers.

 

Action from the HAMB drags



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Awesome. That is just plain nasty


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