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Hot Rods Buick drums.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by flynbrian48, Aug 17, 2017.

  1. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,243

    flynbrian48
    Member

    IMG_0805.JPG IMG_2685.JPG i bought a Buick drum (for $60, I thought a good deal) to replace one for my '34 which can't be turned again (too little lining left). Beyond knocking the Buick hub out and using the Ford hub from my worn one, and re-drilling the holes, what needs to be done? I don't see anything else, or am I missing something?
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2017
  2. Dreddybear
    Joined: Mar 31, 2007
    Posts: 6,088

    Dreddybear
    Member

    If those are the Wilson backing plates I'm pretty sure that's it. No need to machine the lip off with those...
     
  3. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,243

    flynbrian48
    Member

    Thanks, it didn't look like I needed to, and the drums I have LOOK the same, but I wasn't sure. I'll knock the bad one apart and get busy, and will update. It looks like an easy job...
     
  4. spooler41
    Joined: Feb 25, 2007
    Posts: 1,099

    spooler41
    Member

    Bryan, you may have to trim a little off the outer edge to the drums , where it
    may contact the backing plate. Hope that helps, good luck with your project.

    .,........ Jack
     

  5. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,243

    flynbrian48
    Member

    IMG_2686.JPG IMG_2687.JPG Off to my buddy's who has a Bridgeport I go! Looks like indeed the lip on the dum doesn't need to be machined to clear the Wilson backing plate, all I have to do is mill the center hole to fit the Ford hub and drill the correct bolt pattern. Easy! I shoulda looked more closely before asking, but maybe someone else can use the info too.
     
  6. Three Widow's Garage
    Joined: Jan 18, 2010
    Posts: 230

    Three Widow's Garage
    Member

    I think the last ones I did the snout on the hub was smaller than the hole in the drum. They were Ford hubs don't know what year, I made a ring from some tubing to center them. The other issue I had the flange diameter on the hub was slightly larger than the machined recess in the drum, Just turned the flange down a little. JJ
     
  7. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,698

    raven
    Member

    By all means, make sure you have all the factory weights that might be on the drum. If not, then make some to replace what's not there if they are missing. You can usually tell the size by the area left on the drum.
    r
     
    flynbrian48 likes this.
  8. i've done a bunch of Buick drums/Ford hubs and always found it was easier to turn down the ford hub to match the Buick drum than boring out the Buick drum to match the ford hub...but whatever works

    raven makes a good point about balance.....i usually have them re-balanced.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2017
  9. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,243

    flynbrian48
    Member

    My buddy Jake is going to turn the hub down to match the drum, as opposed to the way the old one was done. He said it's likely to have some run out done by boring the center hole bigger. Which the old one did.
     
  10. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,910

    dirty old man
    Member Emeritus

    Brian, I have a question for you: Are you running self adjusters on the brakes with the Wilson backing plates? I have a new pair of Wilsons I've not gotten around to installing as yet because always something interferes with it, either life or something else broken or otherwise needing work in order to keep driving the roadster. Plan to do as a Winter project hopefully this coming Winter. Right now I'm running manual adjusters and repro Lincoln steel backing plates with Buick drums.
    Thought about trying to cut a slot for manual adjusting but I really don't want to do that if they're working OK for others with the self adjusters. But at 3 mos. from age 80, I tend to be a little storn sometimes about new fangled stuff like self adjusting drum brakes:eek:o_O
     

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