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Technical 235 Head / 261 Stovebolt Surprise - Proper Spark Plugs

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Matt Davis, Aug 10, 2017.

  1. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    The big pulley at the bottom has to turn.
     
  2. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Take all the spark plugs out to relieve compression and it will turn much easier by hand.
     
  3. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

    Hilarious, I told you I was new. I was turning the fan but the belt was just slipping. Ha!

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  4. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Rock on brother! That's why we are here!
     
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  5. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

    Okay, I think I'm going to have to do a remote starter as I can't budget by hand....

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  6. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Did you take all the plugs out? Try tightening the belt hella tight? Does the pulley at the bottom (called a harmonic balancer or crank pulley) have a bolt you can get a wrench or socket on?
     
  7. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

    Yes, all spark plugs are out. Just tight getting arms down there and trying to turn. I'm on my way to Riley's cuz I thought I could just use a remote starter in click it to the right spot. ;)

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  8. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

    Just waiting for Amazon to get here...... Don't they know I have a truck to get running!!

    [​IMG]

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  9. Dave Downs
    Joined: Oct 25, 2005
    Posts: 935

    Dave Downs
    Member
    from S.E. Penna

    Pull all the plugs, tighten fan belt, you should be able to turn engine with fan (make sure it is out of gear. .. :) ). Opps, somebody beat me to it.
     
  10. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

  11. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

  12. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

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  13. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 7,873

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    File the contacts, get some cam lube on there, & a squirt of engine oil on the wick in the center of the shaft ... set used points @ .018.
     
  14. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
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  15. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

    Okay everyone, fired right up but running rough unless I rotate the distributer/top vacuum advance and starts to sound better.

    I guess I'm lost on my next step. How do I know I even got the truck idling at the right speed?

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  16. 6inarow
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,363

    6inarow
    Member

    Do you have a dwell tach? that will go a long way to checking. then drive it and tweak by ear
     
  17. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

    Yes, and if I'm reading correctly truck is idling at 400 rpm's.

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  18. 6inarow
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,363

    6inarow
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    I dont know if its right or wrong but I shoot for 600 on my 235. then tweak on the ignition again
     
  19. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,266

    Budget36
    Member

    The ball is just a reference point, my MoToR's manual says set the timing to the ball, then keep advancing until it pings, then back it off a bit.
     
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  20. Dave Downs
    Joined: Oct 25, 2005
    Posts: 935

    Dave Downs
    Member
    from S.E. Penna

    Just checking - you did set the gap on the points when the rubbing block was at top of the distributor cam lobe? And the coil fires the spark plug when the points break contact (just barely open). The postion of the lobe for setting the gap is way different than firing the coil (timing).
     
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  21. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

    That's my question "how do you properly" advance timing?? ;)

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  22. 52HardTop
    Joined: Jun 21, 2007
    Posts: 1,082

    52HardTop
    Member

    You said got carbs from Langdon? Why not go the rest of the way and go with the HEI also? Get rid of the points. I did this with my 235. I have an extended tip plug for the HEI and it is the best thing you can do for your 261.
     
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  23. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,266

    Budget36
    Member


    So, after you have it on the ball, advance the timing some more by turning the distributor...when you advance it, the idle will speed up..just turn the distributor a few degrees, then lock it down.

    Take it for a drive and get it in high gear, and fully accelerate...does it ping? If not, advance it a bit more and try again, once it starts to ping, then retard the timing by rotating the distributor in the opposite direction few degrees, lock it down.

    Note, readjust idle after each timing change.
     
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  24. 6inarow
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,363

    6inarow
    Member

    Going to throw out a different option. Keep the points nothing wrong with them as long as you get good parts (from GMC Bubba). To advance the timing - you will see a bolt that holds it to the block and another machine screw that holds the "octane selector". tighten the octane selector at "0". It was used back in the day to make minor adjustments based on the gas you got. You have the timing close - good job. now just loosen the other bolt and turn the dizzy counterclockwise just a hair. then drive the thing and see how it goes. A couple of adjustments and you should have it. Now where you have it is "good enough" so its just tweaks from here on out. Go back and verify with a timing light and you will see that the BB on the flywheel has moved a bit. Recheck point gap, ypu verified gap on plugs right? You are close now!!!!


    Oops edit - I see you just got an answer - yep what Budget 36 said
     
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  25. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

    Okay, I need to slow down for a bit as I must have done something wrong. I can't get the BB to show in my timing light until I get the truck running at about 2500 RPMs I figure.

    I should see the BB when the truck is at idle speed correct??

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  26. 6inarow
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,363

    6inarow
    Member

    You just advanced it past the hole in the bell housing. Nothing wrong with that if it starts OK and accelerates OK. Thats where it might want to be
     
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  27. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,266

    Budget36
    Member

    That's what happens when both of us use two fingers for typing;)

    OP, are you on the #1plug?
     
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  28. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,594

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    You will need to paint the ball on the flywheel white or its very hard to see,I had to do that to the 235 and dropping the inspection pan is the easiest way to do that.
     
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  29. Matt Davis
    Joined: Sep 25, 2016
    Posts: 238

    Matt Davis
    Member

    Thanks everyone but I can see the ball very well. Here is my question that I have not got an answer to yet. At idle speed should I see the ball in the window? If so, I'm not even close until I rev the truck up to about 2,000 RPMs then I can see the ball steady there.

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  30. 6inarow
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,363

    6inarow
    Member

    Drive it and see how it is and adjust as necessary. That is EXACTLY how my 235 is right now (but I think I need to retard it a bit), so drive and adjust
     

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