Projects My 60 Chevy Sedan Delivery ! Back on the road !

Drive train was modified along time ago.. He did tell me that he put the turbo 350 auto trans in the 60. I'm sure he modified the front section of the drive line when he upgraded the trans..

 

I don't know how i missed this thread. But i need more info on the rubber fore the steps. Those things are super rare. i have 2 for my el camino and need the rubber part of it.Great car by the way.

 

Thank you, just going to have the whole driveline rebuilt... I'm sure everything is 20+ years old and have lots of miles on them.. Really don't have a place were I can lay the car up while doing this.. It may go the shop I use that have treated me great on the projects I've had... Plus sound like a bit over my skill level ..

 

PM sent to you with Info !

 

Interesting, so I called a driveline specialist to inquiry about u-joints & center bearing for the driveline .
I was little frustrated with the answer I received.. Told them what I had and what I needed( hell may just come to you once we have out pending on what we find and have gone thru).. So the guy tells me we have u-joints & bearings of all makes and sizes.. will need to see your drive line.. I wanted to make sure they had the parts and don't want to tie the car up in the shop .. Then find out we don't have the parts for you.. 60 Chevy with a two piece drive line and modified with a Turbo 350 (at the front half ) can't be hard to look up.. Is it rocket science ?

 

They probably need to see what you have before they can tell you if they have it. You don't even know what parts are used in the build, how do you expect them to know?

 

., it's a X frame... has the two piece drive line (60 Chevy) looked underneath and you were correct. is there a lot of different center bearings & mount along with the u-joints for 60 Chevy just asking.. Not trying to bash on anyone( hell I'm parts guy ) but was trying to get a estimate of what parts and labor would cost to go thru it...

 

And driveline specialists will have almost any parts that it could need in stock, they just can't guarantee it!

 

I get that... just was trying to get a ball park on what things would cost...

 

Go to IEDLS.com, i.e., Inland Empire Driveline Service website. They sort of specialize in 58-64 Chevy set ups, which is right up your alley. At the top of their website you'll see headings for "Driveline," "Yokes," "U-Joints," etc. In there you'll find what you need and they'll tell you what it's gonna cost. I'm not affiliated with them in any way. I'm even on the opposite coast. You may find another shop that's cheaper and better. I just know they have what you want in one place and they're on the same coast as you, so it shudn't take long to get it to you. That's a helluva lot better than dickin' around with some yokel that can't tell you anything becuz your application isn't in his computer.

 

Don't forget to have a slip yoke put into the rear shaft, it take all of the pressure off of the center carrier bearing.....you can then run a cheap one and it'll last. All the X frame cars I have (and had) plus the '64 panel got the slip yoke. Also make sure the car is at ride height before you tighten the center support bolts. Also I've found that the rear shaft seemed to be about 1/2" too short on all the cars....stock and lowered. With them on a drive on lift it seemed like I had to put a little pressure on the carrier just to get the bolt holes to line up.

The PG/3spd and the TH350 are the same length you just need to put on a different yoke, also there is a closed end and an open end yoke it depends on if there's an o ring on the trans splines.

 

Thanks Bowtie Coupe...

 

thank you for the suggestion on the slip yoke for sure... will have that done.. Hopefully will have the car fixed soon...

 

Probably more of a deal of a drive shaft guy who has had a lot of experience following behind others who have swapped things around on a rig in the past and then it came to him to be fixed.
That driveshaft should be pretty standard stuff but with the swapped yoke they have no idea of what yoke was used and what Ujoint was used to connect said yoke to the driveshaft. There is no "they are all the same" here. It could have the same U joint that came with the car (same model)or it could have a combination U joint because they used the yoke that came with the trans out of a later model rig that had the inside locks on the joint or it could have a combination joint to match a larger bore on the yoke with the sd's driveshaft. It all depends on what yoke the guy who put it together used.

 

I'll look though my pile of parts to see if I have any heater stuff this weekend if you still need parts. I had two '60s (1st one was totaled on the freeway) and a '59 I bought to use up some of the parts I started to collect (all were El Caminos). The one that was totaled was my second car and was purchased in '92ish, the one I still have was purchased in '94 (both cheap and beat). That was my only car for 6 years and I want to start driving it again......ALOT since seeing your awesome delivery.

I like using Spicer u-joints, but it seems only driveshaft places carry them.

 

Dicks Drive Line Service in Phoenix has a nice set up and with the slip yoke with prices on his web site. He is retired and no longer ships but maybe another member can help you out here. Lots of Hambr's in that area.
Setting drive line angles is a challenge in these cars. I have the shop manual and it is quite specific about the required angles to prevent drive line vibration. I could copy it for you if you want a copy.

 

Thank you, going to try local first ... I'm now wondering were I had the car stored (steep angles to the street and entrance wondering if it put a bind on that old drive line.. its was damn steep , scraped my trailer hitch really hard coming out going to Goodguys a few weeks ago in Puyallup.. That's when the vibration started.. hmm

 

The center carrier bearing can be a bear.I still use the old style drive shaft/bearing.300,000 miles and 2 center C B's I take Silicone ,fill the holes in carrier bearing tape it up let it dry. I have had very good luck with this. The U joints should not be a issue to find. Prolly 75 % of Chevy s used this u joint .As said above make sure the rear axle has all the weight ON it before tightening the center C B bolts.Does exhaust come out the rear?could you have drug it also when you pulled out?

 

I had some PM's regarding the Bumper Steps... sorry those aren't for sale... There is a source for reproduction rubber step pads.. I have a E*** link from the other night from the same guy I bought my pads from... Very nice repops... ty

 

The stock u-joint is 1310 series, Spicer 5-153x for greasable, 5-1310x for sealed. The carrier bearing is a Spicer 210527x. If the slip yoke into the transmission uses inside snap rings, i.e. not visible at the outside of the cap, the u-joint is a Spicer 5-3022x. If it has that conversion u-joint, I like to use the 2-3-6081x slip yoke to make all u-joints the same.
I have personally culled two inside snap ring slip yoke because the castings looked offset. To confirm, I installed the sleeve adapter for the balancer I was using onto the slip yoke and spun it in the balancer to prove my eyeball was right. In both cases, I wouldn't have been able to put enough weights on any shaft to overcome the out of balance, and the ability to do that becomes more difficult when the tubing diameter gets smaller-- 2 inch for the factory shafts of this car.
The suggestion of having a 4wd style shaft in the back to have a second slip yoke only works with the aftermarket carrier bearing with the billet mount that doesn't allow the bearing to move with suspension movement. If a 4wd style shaft was used with a stock type bearing, the cushion would be compromised due to the driveshaft wanting to extend toward the transmission slip yoke, which would in turn push the bearing and cushion too far forward.
The idea of the aftermarket billet bracket and shaft changes isn't a bad idea unless budget is a concern. Why? The factory tubing is 2" x .095 thick, which determines either turning down the butt diameter of a 2-40-1031 stub, or to build a new rear shaft from 2" x .120 tubing using common pieces.
Print off this as it has a lot of tech and part number info I know as well as I know my name.
Last bit--When you pulled shaft, the rear axle tubes are on jackstands. When you reinstall, have the rear of the car held the same way. To reinstall the shaft, slide the forward shaft thru the X while trying to keep the carrier bearing somewhat upright, get the slip into the transmission. Get the rear u-joint into the pinion yoke, start the u-bolts. Start the bolts under the carrier bearing. Tighten the pinion yoke u-bolts. Wiggle the front tube just forward of the X center, tighten the carrier bearing mount bolts. This keeps you from having a preload problem against the carrier bearing in either direction. This has been my standard procedure for this model of car for over 20 years.

 

One last tidbit, have a spare front driveshaft handy. Why? The stub that mounts the carrier bearing can be twisted. The yoke ears of the end yoke that splines onto that stub behind the bearing can also be pinched, which would not allow the snap rings to be correctly installed.
The last I checked, the aftermarket wasn't supporting a replacement carrier brg stub or end yoke, and damage to both is prominent.

 

Great information, Thank you... will let you all know what happens... So I'm taking the 60 in to have the work done here in town... Really don't have a place to lay the car up while have the drive line done... also going to have the wheels re-balanced for peace of mind... The tire shop that did the tires the first place wasn't happy with the work...

 

The shop got the driveline out this morning.. yep the carrier bearing and u-joints were shot...Should have it back Monday or Tuesday...D**c**** Tire did a horrible job mounting the tires . missing weights(clips still there).. instead of using tape weights on my Torque Thrust D's they used clip on steel rim wheels weights on the inside... have that taken care of Saturday.. also figured out my slow tire leak..

 

Wheels re-balanced nicely today...so that's done...I guess will try to clean them up some..not sure how well they will clean up...brake dust build up really punished the finish...

Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Well should be back on the road here soon.. I received a call from the drive line shop just as I was
getting off of work this evening... Drive line all done complete rebuild front to back and balanced $275.00 out the door.. Dropped of the wheels this morning.. Will go and pick up the driveline at lunch and get down to the shop so that they can get it back together..and back on the road...

 

well picked up the 60 today ! Everything fixed ! Many thank you's to Thunfield Rod & Custom (Marshall, Gary & Josh M) Fit me in on short notice and took care of the drive line issue fixed my car fast THANK YOU AGAIN !.. Drivelines Northwest did really nice job on the rebuilding my drive line(thank you)... Good to go ! Thank you to my fellow HAMBer's for all the great advice and suggestions . great information as always