While reading a few threads regarding the Langdon dual carb setup, the thought entered my mind of how is the best way to first start the 235 inline engine I've been rebuilding slowly. I bought the carb setup from Tom and I also have the 264 performance cam from Delta Cams. So the question is should I try to fire the engine with the dual carbs? They are new and untested and I'm not sure that they will be adjusted close enough to get the engine running smoothly enough for break-in during the first firing of it after a complete rebuild. I'd like some input from those that have been through this already! Is there any risk of not getting the lifters and cam broken in properly if I cant keep the thing running due to carb adjustment? I read a few places to keep rpms in the 1500 range for 15 minutes or so. Does this sound correct?
I have the Langdon dual webber set-up on a 235 and it was pretty close right out of the box. Use a good pressure regulator and you'll probably be good to go. Sent from my SM-J700T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No. Use one mule. Get everything dialed in like timing, valves to max vacuum etc. The add the go juice extras. Heard a single 4 will kick ass! Or a 500 Holley deuce will give a nice power band! Good luck !' Where's the photos? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I am still in the process of plumbing everything and waiting on some headers to come back from being ceramic coated. It's going to be s few weeks before I try to fire it up, was just looking ahead and wondering if I should find an old Carter or Rochester and rebuild it for the breakin. Kits are cheap enough and I have the Rochester that came with the engine when I bought it off C/L.
I have a fresh 236 bored 60 over. Never started. I have the original carb. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
First start and Cam run in is one time you don't want trouble for sure. Unless I know for sure all carbs are dialed in for what's under them I never do it fresh out of the box. Lean run on a new motor is just as damaging as a Fuel wash down. I vote for being safe. The Hemi in my F-100 is set up for 4 carbs and has had them on it prior. It took some major work to salvage them back to new, I still mounted what I knew was a good 4bbl on it for run in and first 500 miles. Kind of standard process for me. The Wizzard
No guts no glory. The first time I cranked one of my big block Chevies was the first time I had ever fooled with alky stack injection. By the time I got the cam broke in it had used about 5 gallons of alky , stunk up the garage , which was attached to my house. So my whole house smelled like alcohol fuel with strawberry sweetener. Seriously if you have a stock carb you run just to break the cam in ,you would be better off.
I would bolt on the single one barrel on the stock manifold. I'm sure your headers will fit. Don't need to be fancy here, do the fuel line as ez as you can all hose if needed with a see threw filter. You don't need throttle linkage either. Set all the rockers cold .002" more than stock and you only need to have your timing light set up ready to go. 28-32 degrees at 2000 rpm for 15-20 minutes. Have a temp gun handy too. When it's ironed out and you like what have change the intake, make some nice hard lines with one of the AC style glass filter and linkage to the pedal. Good luck.
These were my thoughts as well. I still have the stock intake/exhaust with a Rochester carb that will need to rebuilt I'm sure. $15-$20 bucks for a kit I would imagine. How will the 264 cam like that Rochester? I will be running it off of an IV so a good filter will be inline and no crappy gas from an old tank.
Stock carb with a lumpy cam generally isn't a big deal. It just may not have quite the throttle responce with it that the end result will be. If it sounds like it needs a little more fuel at your brake in RPM just close the Choke a little till is sounds better. I also use a hand held temp gauge to keep tabs on the exhaust Temps. The Wizzard
My thoughts were only in setting up the new engine. Please don't consider I was suggesting it was to be driven. It could but since throttle linkage for the new set up may be totally different I would not want to do it twice especially if it is the original thru the floor 50's GM products. I also like a clean hard line fuel lines and the same for the vacuum advance line which parallels the fuel line held with clips. Nothing takes away from a great engine than shitty fuel lines and colored spark plug wires. Just my opinion.
Yeah I have a long way to gobefore driving the car. I am just going to get the engine fired up and broke in as it's been sitting for damn near a year and I'm just ready to hear it run.
RMONTY if it's been sitting for a year. Take out the distributor and run the oil pump with a long screw driver with the head cut off in a 3/8" or 1/2" drill motor. Have someone crank it over with the spark plugs out after you see oil pressure. I do it every time on my GMC's. Also after it sits again for any time remove the spark plugs and crank it over until u see some oil pressure. Ez to do since the plugs ez to reach.. Good luck.
I agree with what everyone else is saying. I've broke in a lot of engines and 1500-1800 rpm is were you want to be during the first 15-20 minutes and don't crank it to long .the reason is there's more pressure on the valve train at slower speed and is detrimental to the soft lobes of the new cam until it gets work hardened assuming it's a flat tappit cam. I'm also a believer of brake in oil,zinc additive or racing oil with zinc. Seen a bunch of cams fail with out it. If you use the stock carb it should be close enough. Your not putting any load on it and the advise of giving it a little choke if it seems lean is rite on. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Yes I am on board with most all of this. I'll be making a tool to prime the oiling system and will take all the precautions. I just wanted to make sure my thought process was on the right track and I believe it is.
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