Technical 354 Hemi Build Thread (Again)

I was wondering if you've used a bottoming tap on all of the bolt holes. It might not be too late if you're careful, and not let junk from the threads get into anywhere it doesn't belong. It sure makes a big difference when you're screwing one together for the final time.
That thing looks great man---stay the course.

 

It has come in handy many times! They're about 2 hours away, so we don't usually pick stuff up, but we didn't want to lose another day to waiting for parts to come in.


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If you weren't in a hurry the cap probably could have been moded to take the Melling M-50 (392) pump.

 

After fighting some of the screw in plugs, I now drill a big hole through the center to relieve some of the hoop tension. Just leave enough for the square drive to drive it.

You can clean out the back of the hole with a dremel and install a cup plug. The sides of the block should be 1.625. These guys have just about any size any any material you might want.
http://freezeplugfactory.com/expansion-plug-size-chart/

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Thanks for the info!

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Got a lot done today.



This image shows the oil diverter and main cap dowel. Both are absolutely necessary.

Checking the ring end gaps. The top rings came in at either .016 or .017 and the second rings came in at .018 or .019. Hastings recommends .0035 per inch of bore diameter, making the minimum end gap .0139. (3.9775 x .0035)

We had to rent a ring compressor since our good one was too big for this bore. It actually worked pretty well.

.001 under Pontiac rod bearings

Oil pump adapter to accept the 392 oil pump.


Installed the cam and timing chain as well. Set it up 2 degrees retarded.


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Those are the only way to fly! I've had issues with the disc ones popping out or just leaking. The T-bar ones even leaked on me this year so they got a decent coat of The Right Stuff and then screwed them in. Best luck I've had sealing these and holding so far.

 

2 deg retarded?

 

Yea, my reasoning for that is to hopefully bleed off a little bit more cylinder pressure, but then again I don't know if 2 degrees will make any appreciable difference. Although, Hot Rod magazine did do a Hemi build a while ago that had more compression and a smaller cam, so we'll see. I haven't put the front cover on yet, so it isn't final.


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I always get confused as to which way the diverter valve gets placed in the block, yours has the large flat end with the hole in it facing up with the large opening facing the rear main cap.

 

By the time the chain stretches you should be around 4 to 6 retard.

 

It should install with the o-ring down. Pic is from an HRM article.



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That is NOT a 392 pump!


QUOTE="tartar_sammich, post: 12173585, member: 252657"]
It should install with the o-ring down. Pic is from an HRM article.

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The 'window' has to face the side of the block or else the 'rib' will restrict oil flow.

It a much better idea to simply shove a Dorman cup into the block since there is a shoulder between the two horizontal drillings (that the shown part also rests against). Dorman cup = 10¢

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The 'window' has to face the side of the block or else the 'rib' will restrict oil flow.

It a much better idea to simply shove a Dorman cup into the block since there is a shoulder between the two horizontal drillings (that the shown part also rests against). Dorman cup = 10¢

.[/QUOTE]

My mistake, it is a 392 adapter.


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Well, I was going to check piston to valve clearance today but I figured out that our pushrods are too long. Makes sense considering we moved from a .056 head gasket to a .040 and the block was decked. Can't believe I didn't think about that. I go back to school this Sunday so this might take a little longer than anticipated.


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I was in a bit of a rush earlier when I replied to a couple of threads and forgot to ask a very simple question: for what reason did you choose the 340 pump and adapter parts over the Melling M50 which is a 100% bolt-on replacement?? Either way you have to deal with the pick-up tube assembly so that is not usually a factor. Just curious.

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I'm not sure to be honest. Dad called HotHeads and we just went with what they recommended. I think I remember you telling me about the Melling M50 a good while back, but I just didn't think about it when we went to go get the parts yesterday.


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Just called Crane Cams and had a chat about cam timing. They said that it is probably a good idea to run it at -2 just to be a little safer, and that it will barely affect the power band.


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"Saltflats" finished up my question. New timing chains typically stretch 2 deg, more or less.

 

Do you mean after initially retarding it 2 degrees or installing it straight up? I still haven't decided what to roll with yet, but I'll probably be putting the front cover on for good either tomorrow or Friday.


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Yes with the -2

 

So do you think I'd be better off installing it straight up?

 

Straight up is what I would do! Gary

 

I would start from piston to valve clearance and work from there.
Being from -2 or from 0 knowing a chain will stretch.

 

I'll see if I can get a hold of a checker spring either tomorrow or Friday, then I'll change one out and see what kind of shape we're in. Do you know about how many miles it takes before a chain starts to stretch like that?

 

Not sure it is as how many miles it is as much as how close you want to run when it slacks.

 

Piston will chase exhaust and fallow intake to some degree.

 

12000 mile chain in my 409

 

So if I'm looking at that right it's about a degree and a half?


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New chains stretch about 2 deg when new & then settle down for about 90K.