Customs 57 Chevy Budget 4 door build

Well, after 2 years of looking for a 2 door 57-59 chevy i could afford, i finally settles on a 4 door 57 belair. I picked up the car for $1500, and I don't think it has any floor rust, and most of the body is good as well. No parts are missing, and for $300 i had it towed across Missouri to my house in Illinois.

Got it home yesterday morning and bought a new battery, and plugs and wires for $200, so I'm in the build for $2000 at this point. The goal is to keep it under 3 grand, and that might sound like a crazy idea, but i think i can deal hunt and make it happen. I just wan to get it running and do some cruising this fall. I'll put a small block in the car since it only has a 235,
and at some point i'll do body work but this is what i had after i got it off the trailer yesterday morning.

 

So i put oil in each cylinder, got the motor spinning freely and then put my new battrey, plugs and wires in. Mostly everything seems to work, the motor cranks over, all the lights work, no radio and no clock right now though, and the carb had a leak so i took it off. after i had the carb off i noticed the inside of the intake was really rusty so i took that off too, had one hell of a time getting it off and ended up with some snapped/bent threads on the exhaust end... but i'm going to put the intake in some CLR and get a rebuild kit for the carb soon. End of day 1.

 

You had another thread running?

Anyways, understand just putting in a carb kit, won't be the right approach, take the whole thing apart, soak in lacquer thinner over night, blow all the passages with compressed air...then let it dry and reassemble

I only mention this as many of my friend -back in the day- would just install new parts, and wonder why it was the same

 

Looks good for $1,500. A 4dr in that condition would be double here in Houston.

 

Yeah, i plan on cleaning and doing a full carb rebuild before i put it back in the car. And i thought i'd start a build thread so you don't have to go through 20 pages just to get to when i got the car


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A little rust in the intake would have probably been normal after sitting for a while and the broken exhaust bolts is probably why I wouldnt have pulled that off but you may be doing the best thing by cleaning it up correctly.

 

Was kinda watchin the other thread, and was happy you chose wisely, enjoy

 

Dont want to give you bad info but after you get it back together I would probably sand the points a little or get new ones installed and maybe run the suction side of the fuel pump hose into a clean container of gas (not from tank yet) and get a spray can of starting fluid to spray in carb and see if she would crank and fire......but then again, try and be safe while doing so.
Also,again you may want to roll er outside and have a fire extinguisher handy just in case.

 

One adventure ends, another begins. You could trick out the Stovebolt for now.

 

I know you're busy, but between classes check out some of restodan's videos. https://m.youtube.com/user/restodan/videos?shelf_id=2&sort=dd&view=0
He buys field cars, spends next to nothing and tries to get them running and driving for the fun of it. He's done a few tri five Chevies, lots of other cars too, and walks you through the steps to get them back from the dead. The one that comes to mind was a gold 4 door chevy. Some good info, not to technical so a normal Joe can get something out of it. Good coffee break stuff.

I liked your other thread a lot. Was fun to watch you hunt around. You came close a few times, it's interesting to see what you pulled the trigger on. Good luck.


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I love his videos. The stuff he pulls off with hardly any money. He had that 56 4drht that he put a 305 from a burnt up caprice in and had a good running car. That's the kind of stuff i want to do with this car


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Good advice i'll try that stuff next time i'm home. That carb situation is the biggest problem right now. It'll definitely be a learning experience, i've never even had a carb before other than lawn mower ones. If i could get the carb to hold gas i could fill up the bowl, but it's either going inside the engine or leaking out, not really sure. I poured almost a whole water bottle full of gas in and the carb was empty a couple seconds later when i checked it...

 

Gas is in the pan...carb is not made to hold anything poured into it...think of your lawnmower..., I think someone suggested it, but use a remote fill, bypass the fuel pump, let it gravity feed...if your gas just keeps running into it, then pull the top off the carb, and see what the issue with the float is...could be gummed up, have trash in it, etc, so now if there 2 quarts of gas in the pan, best to drain the oil again, just get some of the cheapo $2.50 a quart stuff at the supermarket for the next time you give it a try-hopefully after you rebuild the carb

 

Here is some 58 Chevy love to inspire you!
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLc_UqhyZpC_1BvcGWoQWCC31-LBn8VSQV

 

I'm thinking this is the kit i need for the carb? It's definitely a Rochester 1 barrel, and it's a factory GM carb, so i'm pretty sure it's original.

http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-carburetor-rebuild-kit-rochester-bc-1955-1957.html

 

Well, i got a lead on a running 1965 chevy truck being parted out. it's got a 283 and 3 speed overdrive. guy wants 750 for the motor, so i might grab that, and i also found this earlier, makes me think of my car, color and all.

 

I have some driver quality stuff left over from my Shorty build. You are welcome to the parts if pay the ride. I have window regulators if you need them and the original gauges.
PM me if you need something.

 

Congratulations on your find, cool car.

 

Just finishing up a complete floor on one now. Good luck and have fun, yours looks way more solid.

 

Scruffy's job looks factory! One piece unit?

 

Hi. Posted so you could see my 1957 235 engine (same as yours) in my 45 Chevy coupe. Dual 2 barrel carbs, headers, hot grind cam & such and it gets down the road right with todays traffic. Sixty five - seventy mile speed limits were around when your 57 was new and they were driven at those speeds then so they can be now.
Jimmie

 

Nice to see you finally found one to build. It will be fun to follow along as you work on it. Time to change yer avatar now!!

 

Right, that one was great. The Roasted Caprice motor. I loved that one. He's great.

Here you go. Watch this:

This guy shows the basics of disassembling cleaning any carb.


Then watch this about the BC:



All you need to know. He walks you through every screw, every piece of rebuild. (Cleaning and freeing up passages is on you, Mike's videos assume you've done that). Many different videos for different carbs. He sells the kits too. Same guy will answer the phone and actually talk to you, to make sure you get the right kit.

(Or you can buy a kit from CarKing here, pretty sure he'll answer a pm if you are buying a kit from his sight.)

Then Mike has videos about adjusting it. Just search youtube adding "mikes carburetors".





If you clean it properly, install a kit properly, but it's not adjusted right or every component isn't working properly, or if things are just too worn out (like throttle shafts etc.), then it's not going to work. That's why, 1/2 the time when you buy a rebuilt carb over the counter, it won't work right when you just bolt it in.



A lot of people are mentored by their Dads or Uncles about this stuff. No one ever showed me anything about cars in my entire life. It wasn't until I watched Mike's videos that I was confident enough to take apart a carb on a car.
And I've had a lot of cars. I would just look at the carburetor and think "if I even touch that thing I'm gonna break it..."






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750 goes a long way in fixing up a 235 that's in decent shape, and you don't have to start fabbing stuff like motor mounts etc. Get the 235 running before making any large scale engine decisions and see what you have. You could be rolling down the road cruising instead of fabbing stuff up.

 

The 283 was an option for 57 Chevys, so any 283 is a bolt in swap. Assuming that the 283 is a complete running engine, about the only parts that would have to be bought are the front motor mount angle brackets, (that bolt to the front of the engine block), a 55 - 57 Chevy V8 bellhousing, (or a Lakewood scattershield for a 55 - 57 Chevy), and a 55 - 57 V8 throttle arm and throttle linkage rod.

All of the six cylinder clutch linkage is the same as the V8 linkage, as is the original 3 speed trans. The six cylinder front motor mount studs, flat washers, and biscuits, (that bolt to the frame), are the same as a V8, but have to be moved to the rear set of frame holes. Both sets of holes are already in your frame. The rubber rear motor mounts are also the same between sixes and V8's. They are different as far as stick shift cars vs. automatics, though. Your originals are probably dry rotted and torn, however.

As far as exhaust, if the 283 still has the stock "Rams Horn" exhaust manifolds, that dump straight down, (not angled back), they will bolt right into a 57. That is what V8 57 Chevys used for exhaust manifolds.

About the only other difference is the radiator and radiator support. A six cylinder radiator is mounted ahead of the radiator cross bar, while the V8 radiator is mounted behind. The bar is the same, but the U shaped support and the radiator are different. However, with longer radiator hoses, and a fan spacer, the six radiator and support can be used with a V8. By the way, a six cylinder radiator is slightly larger than a V8.

Here's a small tip.....When it comes time to pull the engine, DO NOT CUT the radiator cross bar. Just drill out the spot welds, (or rivets), that attach it to the U shaped radiator support. When re-installing the cross bar, bolt it together where it had been spot welded, (or riveted). It is very important for the structural integrity of the front sheetmetal, and for the life of your radiator, that the crossbar and U shaped radiator support remain completely attached to each other, with a solid bar between the front fenders.

Attached is a photo of my 55's engine compartment. It was originally a 235 six with a Power-Glide automatic. A V8 radiator and radiator support were swapped in at the same time as the 283, (now bored to 301) and Muncie 4 speed, (which is also basically a bolt in swap). Stock V8 motor mounts were used front and rear. The throttle linkage and return spring are stock V8 parts for a 55 - 57 Chevy, too.

 

Yeah it would definitely be easy as far as motor swaps go, but i'll probably get the 6 running, drive it for a while and then get a v8 in there. If i find a major problem with the motor thats in it, i'll just pull it and do a v8 straight away.


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Front was one piece which I split to install without pulling the body, trunk was one piece and had to split the spare tire area to get it in. Would have been easier to yank the body, but have to do what the owner wanted. Second one I've done for the same guy.

 

Fro your small block swap. I have some front mounts and some ram horns.

 

Heck yeah nothin wrong with a 4 door! Im doin a 55 4 door now as well. Good luck!

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