Projects My 60 Chevy Sedan Delivery ! Back on the road !

thanks brother !

 

Looks like its coming together great, Rob.

 

Thanks Evan, coming along....little slow... need to get back to the Shop for few things....I have a replacement hood... Just need to go it some weekend up Seattle...

 

Going a lot faster than my projects though...

I expect to see a completely different car from when I left upon my return.

 

V

 

door seals on backorder... argh

 

Don't worry Rob. I don't remember the family '60 wagon ever not leaking at the doors...

 

yep, the weatherstrips are pretty gone...

 

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Pretty much done with the interior... Just need to bolt the lap belts back in....then back to the shop for small fix....now just need to figure what I'm going to do about the back? Hmmm...having fun!

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finished installing the seat belts today... interior is finished...

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Question for anyone that installs Auto glass here... So I pulled the broken vent glass out of frame tonight.. need to clean up the frame some.. I'm wondering what do you use for installing the glass in the frame... It looked like some kind rubberized tape or something... being a 56 old car wasn't much left.. Thank you !

 

Glass setting tape is what u need. Many of the usual suppliers have it.

 

Thank you, I was given some by the guys who do some of our windshield replacements were I work... Will finish it tonight...

 

crappy phone picture... doors seals finally got here (backorder) . kind of disappointed that don't make molded correct 2 dr Sedan / Sedan Delivery. The seals fit pretty well.. At least the carpet will stay dry when I wash it... LOL HAPPY 4TH OF JULY !

 

nothing better than a nice winter drive

 

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Just picked up these steps for the 60...Nine passenger bumper steps...Tired of stepping on the bumper and slipping off.. were a popular accessory on El Camino's from what I was told also... avoided stepping on the tailgates... Was surprised to find that CAM ENT. made replacement step pads... Not just need to mock them up ... Do I run them as is or replate them... they look to have come off different cars at one time...

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So I noticed while driving a vibration started ... I was on my way to Goodguys in Puyallup... I could feel it through the seat...The tires are a few years old with less the 1000 miles on them... Running a BF Goodrich Radial T/A.. car has been sitting for a few months.. I wouldn't think a radial tires would be flat spotted from that(maybe a cord issue) low speed didn't feel anything... about 35 and above it comes on... I guess my first plan of attack have the wheels re-balanced... and then drive... Wondering the drive line may be suspect( still have 60 Chevy drive line) .. Thank you !

 

If that has a 2 piece drive shaft check the center bearing and rubber mount.

 

X2. Exactly the symptom for carrier bearing. Cool car, man. Love it.


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So the car has been updated to 350 Chevy , with Turbo 350 trans... I spoke to the previous owner, the drive line was modified long ago.. Front half to fit the Turbo 350 and the rear(with carrier bearing) to the third member is stock 60 Chevy.. So I'm think first try the wheels... I would think the carrier bearing would make noise or vibrate at all times.. I'm not really familiar with these drive lines.. Can this be changed to a one piece drive line.. Maybe just have the old driveline completely gone thru... When I spoke to previous owner, he said the ujoints or carrier bearing had never been don in the 20 years he owned.. What are your thoughts... Thank again HAMB !

 

Probably u joints and, or carrier bearing if it hasn't been done,
I had a new driveline made for my 58 due to slop at yoke in rear, where someone had sprung the yoke apart while beating out old u joints.

 

I have a '60 Cad, similar chassis, not exactly the same, but has a carrier bearing. One day a vibration started that only could be felt after 20/30 mph. Chugging around you couldn't feel it. Changed the carrier bearing and problem solved. Not saying it's your problem, but those are my thoughts.

You could rotate the tires and see if anything changes. I've had a lot of strange vibrations over the years that I traced to the tires.

I would do the rear U-joint 1st (easiest, just some nuts and bolts) and see if that changes anything.

The front U-joint requires emptying trans, usually pulling yoke, pressing out old U-joint pressing a new one.

carrier bearings are more involved. You gotta pull entire driveshaft, (make sure you check to see if there are any shims in the tunnel! Sometimes they needed to be shimmed to be balanced) and some pressing again.

I think if it went down the street smooth for 20 years while the PO had it, it would be one of these. Do you think it could be related to the mods they did to change the drivetrain?






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If it's the wheels, you're gonna feel it in the steering wheel. If you're feeling it in the seat, it's down below. Check the carrier bearing/u-joints. See Inland Empire Driveline Service (iedls.com) for info on driveshafts.

 

If it's a driveshaft vibration at highway speed, the sensation will be like a cycling rumble around 55 mph depending on what the cause is.
If it's a carrier bearing or locked u-joint problem, you generally will have a thumping sensation at takeoff speed. A seized u-joint will sound like hell at highway speed. If the carrier bearing rubber is bad, generally you don't know it at highway speed.
When replacing the lollipop carrier bearings on these cars, I take a bicycle inner tube, cut strips about 1 1/2" wide. I pop the bellows loose on one side of the bearing, and wrap around the bearing to reinforce with the rubber strips, then put back together. I also add some welding to the base where the base metal and formed metal.

 

Since you are feeling it though the seat I'd suspect the driveshaft or carrier .
On the modified shop did the PO say if they modified it themselves or had a driveshaft shop do it? I've shortened a number of driveshafts and it is hit or miss when you do it yourself. Sometimes you hit it right like the shaft in my 48 and it works great and sometimes it shakes and bakes at a certain speed. Still if it went that many miles I'd say that it probably needs to have the U joints and center support changed. It isn't a hard job and if you have a spare turbo 350 yoke laying around you just stick the spare yoke in when you pull the driveshaft out to keep from loosing too much trans fluid and it it is jacked up in the back and low in the front you use less.
Main thing is to make sure you mark the yoke and shaft so you can line them back up right before you take the yoke off to take the support bearing off. You have to keep that yoke perfectly in phase with the front yoke.

National number for the center support with bearing is NATIONAL HB206FF and that should cross at your favorite parts house. That should run under 30 bucks Amazon and Summit show it for 31.99 but they are easy to find locally. U joints shouldn't cost much either. Depending on what yoke they used on the front you might end up needing a combination joint there though.

 

If you have to pull the driveshaft on this car, jack up the rear about a good foot or more and put your jackstands under the axle tubes. When you do this, you won't have to worry draining any transmission fluid or having a plug. You're going to need the room to be able to access the carrier bearing mount bolts when you take it apart, and to guide everything back together in front of the X.
Mr48chev hit the nail solidly when he advised to mark all components before you take anything apart if needed.
And if you're brave and think you can do this safely, you can start up the car before you pull the shaft, put the trans in low gear, and watch for tubing wobble at weld joints and in the center of the rear tube. Keep hands, hair, fingers, small children away from the driveshaft and rear tires. This would be done at engine idle.
Somebody asked if you can put a one piece shaft into a stock chassis car like this. NO. Based on length it would have to be at least 3" diameter. Because of the diameter, if that was done, the shaft would hit inside the X during normal driving suspension movement. You can't increase the diameter of the rear shaft tubing either for the same reason. I have built and tried both.
I built driveshafts for 25 years for a living in a pro shop, installed, sold surrounding parts for, etc. I am the pro of that shop. Hotrod, mud slinger, dirt car, drag car, log truck, dump truck, custom wheel base modifications, custom car, municipal and industrial application, you name it, driveshafts. I haven't forgotten much of what I use every day and have for years.