Hi, New here I have recently acquired a 54 Chev Handyman Wagon, with original 235 motor and 6 volt system. Drove her home (6 hours). We had issues keeping her running. Had to keep pressure on the pedal at all times. The moment you eased off to idle, she gave out. Got her home, the next day she drove problem free. The next time, she got towed home. Just couldn't get her to start. Initial thoughts fuel and carb. Took her to my garage, they narrowed it down to condenser and points, they also cleaned the needle. Picked her up today, just as I was leaving she stalled on me when at a complete stop. Started up no problem. 3 blocks, slowed in traffic (almost a complete stop) and she quit. Couldn't get her going. Pushed her off the main road, mechanic came and got her going almost immediately. We drove her around for a bit, all seemed good. Got home, decided to do an errand 20 minutes later and she won't even turn over. First thought...starter. Can't be alternator as they checked it out and tightened the belt. Threw on my 6 volt charger for a few hours, got headlights but still no turning over. Anybody have any idea what else might be happening? Thanks
I think it's the green valve cover. If I was an engine and somebody painted my valve cover goose crap green, I would not want to run either. You have different problems..... The first problem appears to be fuel. The second problem appears to be "mechanics" that do not know cars like this. The third problem appears to be electrical. Having to keep it at a high idle suggests problems with the carburetor. There also could be problems with the fuel pump, fuel tank and fuel lines. Start from the tank and work towards the carburetor. If the tank is rusty and or full of that tar/rotten gas, it will never run right. It's a bad sign if the gas tank has that sick sweet varnish smell. Fuel pumps fail on these quite often. Cleaning the needle does nothing if the rest of carburetor needs rebuilding. Fire the mechanic and learn to do this yourself because no one takes the time and care to really fix these cars other than the owners. Electrical.... Start checking the connections....all of them in the starting circuit. Your battery cables look awfully small for a 6 volt system. A closer look at the photo tells me those cables need attention indeed...like replaced with some that will work with 6 volts. Once you have it cranking, look at the ignition wiring and coil. Remember... fuel fire/spark time If it has these three it should run.
Valve cover has been changed Those were pics of the car when I picked it up. If I knew more about mechanics I would be fixing this sucker myself. I understand some of what you say, but do not know of what you suggested. I get the whole fuel carb thing. The carb was recently rebuilt. I had asked the mechanic to do that but it was already done. When he changed the valve cover he said the motor was super clean. As for the gas tank...it has been replaced however I do have a leak around the sending unit. I've been keeping it 3/4 full. I wish I knew how to do this myself. I would love to, but sadly, don't understand a darn thing about how things work. Individually yes, collectively together as a system....I'm a true dummy. However, what is most perplexing is the whole time (past 3 weeks) the issue seemed to have been fuel and/or carb related. But now, today, it just turns dead. Won't even cough when I turn the key. Cool vehicle, big, bulky, slow not much of a head turner, which I like but darn it, it's pissing me off :/ Thank you for your input. I will research it and see what I can try to figure out. Lara
Working head lights with no ability to crank the engine is an electrical problem. Could be the size of the cables as mentioned above, but I don't know what the correct size would be. The positive cable is too long, no need to wrap it around the vent pipe on it's way to the starter. The battery terminals look good, so I would check the other ends. Make sure you have a good connection to the starter and engine block. If you can wiggle the cable at the terminal, it's too loose. As for the engine not running at idle. Could be timing or low idle speed. The idle speed can be controlled be an adjustment screw on the carb. For timing, you will want to get/borrow a timing light.
ABOVE IS THE BEST ADVICE YOU WILL GET. Carb, points, condensers, all things todays mechanics know nothing about, unless they are over 40 years old. I'm a mechanic by trade and work with guys that have never seen a carb and have no idea how they work. Points and condenser? they have never seen them either. This old car hobby is a "hands on sport" I just don't know how someone can keep an old car running by paying someone else to do the work, much less making improvements. You need to get some books and do some reading to keep this nice old car running. That and keep reading the HAMB. What is your location? you could also use a buddy that can help. keep us posted on how you make out. And that is one nice Chevy.
<<Could be the size of the cables as mentioned above, but I don't know what the correct size would be.>> Should be 0 or greater for 6v. Mac's and other suppliers have battery and starter cables for Ford, so it's likely that vendors of parts for vintage Chevys have them, too.
Greetings, you might trying asking if anybody on the HAMB could recommend a mechanic located close to you. I agree with what has been said above. Six volt wiring is always larger in dia. your positive cable should be larger. I would also recommend to have the car checked out by a qualified mechanic before you start trying to drive it. You said the gas tank was replaced but the sending unit is leaking, just because a carb has been rebuilt doesn't mean its been rebuilt correctly. not sure what part of the world you in but I would bet someone on here could recommend a local mechanic, I'm questioning the ability of your mechanic. good luck.
The best book ever for the beginner. They put this book out every year up through the 70's. I would suggest buying one from a year that corresponds best with your year car, so I'd buy one up to 1962 which was the last year for the 235. First test is to see if you have any spark; pull the #1 spark plug out, stick it back into the plug boot, hook a jumper cable to the plug, hook the other end of the same cable to the negative post on the battery. Set it down and have someone crank the engine and you look at the spark plug to see if there is an arc. Yes? Not an electrical issue. Then put the plug back in as if to run the car. To test for fuel; pull the coil wire, disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and stick the hose into a plastic bottle. Have someone crank the engine a few times (never longer than 20 seconds) if fuel comes out in a stream, then your fuel pump is okay as well as the fuel tank pickup and filter. If no fuel comes out I'd remove the fuel filter first and repeat the above. If fuel comes out, you have found the culprit. When a car sits, the fuel that kept the gunk in suspension evaporates and leaves hardened sediment behind thus clogging the filter. Get the book, you won't be sorry. I bought one before I even ever had a car and to me they are the best books ever for the beginner.
Cool car. No better way to learn than to have a test subject parked right there in front of you. It won't sue you for malpractice if you make a mistake. Youtube and shop manuals. You'll learn a lot and have fun doing it. It starts to make more sense when you get your hands on it. Many times when carbs are "sent out" to be rebuilt, they aren't rebuilt or adjusted properly. The only way to know for sure is to tear it down yourself, or have someone who knows what they are doing give it a go. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hi. On the battery cables realize that a larger size has a smaller #. Size 0 is larger than size 1 or 2. Size 00 is larger than size 0. Think about it as compared to house wiring which is usually sizes 10, 12 or 14. Size 14 is what you see used in home lighting which does not use a lot of amps. Basic rule of thumb is that the lower the voltage the larger the wire size needed. Have you checked for a vacuum leak? The distrubitor has vacuum advance and you have vacuum wipers. Rubber vacuum line should attach to a fitting at either the base of carb or to intake manifold and tee to both the vacuum advance and wipers. Have you cleaned or changed fuel filter depending on what type it is. Also try this CAREFULLY - get someone to help and take the fuel line off the carburator and stick it in a can or large bottle and have someone try to start the engine. Do you have a good flow of fuel or is it weak or erratic. DO NOT drop the can or jar. Then if you have a flex line leaving the gas tank and connecting to a steel line near the tank remove the flex line from steel line and remove steel line from fuel pump and fuel filter and use an air hose and blow out the steel line. If you get a bunch of rust or crud out of the line you should replace it but until you can do that replace the fuel filter and reconnect the gas lines. After blowing out the lines will it start & run? For suspected fuel problems this is where you should start. On my 46 Chevy coupe with the 235 engine it had a bad rusty gas tank when I bought the car in 2013. I replaced the tank and blew tons of rusty crud from the line to fuel pump but did not change the line as someone had already changed it. Ran great but about a month later the fuel pump quit and I replaced it. Local auto parts actually had a fuel ump for the 1957 235 engine. the 235 is really a very simple basic engine design to work on but garages & shops no longer have mechanics, they have technicians and most technicians can only work on cars with computers that tell them what part to change and print out instructions for them on how to do this. Most do not have a clue how to repair or adjust anything and they only change parts the computer reader tell them to. Have you actually checked the spark? Remove one plug wire from plug and have someone try to crank the engine. Holding the wire carefully with something insulated see if it will jump a spark when held about 1/4" from the engine block. to do this you will have to peel back the rubber wire end cap that snaps onto the plug or stick a screwdriver into the connector and move the blade of the screwdriver near the block. Stay away from the fan when doing this as the spark will not hurt you if you are not insulated where you are holding it but it will make you jump and you do not want to fling hand into the fan or hit head on hood. Above is a good place to start. Good luck, Jimmie
Another thing to check for the fuel issue is the heat riser in the exhaust manifold. It could be stuck in the closed position causing the heat to warm up the carb at all times. I had that issue on my 55 235. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There was a guy on here with a similar wagon with a plethora (shitload...) of issues. Could this be the same car?
This all sounds like you need a skilled hamb member in your area to help teach you and guidance you to the right way of tracking and show you how to do your own diagnostics We all can say anything and what to look for but if you don't know how, look at some YouTube videos about Timing Vapor lock Filters Carb rebuild. Ect.... Get a book alot of homework(forum reads) The homework is more work than doing the actual work but well worth it for best results. Sent from my Z981 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I was wondering the same thing...although this thread doesn't mention the engine being dragged down by a bad water pump or generator. Biggest bunch o' bs I ever read!
Those carbs tended to have the sections come loose. Grab the top of the carb and twist it, it shouldn't move. All sections should be tight. I would put a new gas filter on it, a metal one with new hoses. Look at all the hoses back to the tank. If they are rotted they will suck air and not gas.
From your profile page you have more of these older cars and are a member of the Edmonton Street Rod Association. You must know someone who knows something about these cars. Is this an electrically actuated starter or does it have the pedal on the floor? If electrical, do you hear a clicking sound when you turn the key? Is this an automatic and is it in park? Try moving the shifter back and forth. The starter can go bad from cranking it for long periods or it might be just age and use. Sometimes they get stuck. Turning the engine with the fan can allow the drive to return and get the armature to a different position.
There are benefits to converting it to 12v and putting an alternator on it. Unless you want to keep it stock. At the least with old cars I'm not familiar with, I get the starter, generator/alternator gone over and put in a new fuel and water pump, just to ward off evil spirits.
00 AWG gauge copper stranded cables (pronounced leh-nyrd skynyrd) are what you want for a 6 volt system. They aren't even that expensive compared to the generic drugstore junk cables in the plastic shells hanging on the wall. Type in "00 battery cables" in your favorite search engine. Make sure to avoid copper plated aluminum wire. There's a guy on that auction site that makes 'em up in any length ya want, the real stuff professionally crimped with zinc coated pure copper terminals in different end size, 5/16" or 3/8" etc in red and black insulation. Measure carefully and determine the shortest length cable required and keep them no longer than needed.
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