Technical Troubles putting a 350 SBC into a 1947 Chevrolet

Hello Community...

I have big problems putting a 1979 Camaro 350 Small Block V8 into my 1947 Chevrolet Fleetline Aerosedan.
Everywhere I look, I see these engines inside 1941-48 Chevys... but it seems nobody can answer questions about the main issues:

- clearance between headers, block, spark-plugs and steering shaft

I´m all in all a "first timer" and this is my first project I´m working on.

Does anyone have pictures of a SBC inside a 1941-48 Chevy, giving me the idea of how to manage this?

The engine is already installed, this was made by a professional... but it seems he also doesn´t care for the problems I stated above...

- I go with a Flaming-River column and already bought 2 joints and a piece of double D shaft for working around the engine and getting space for the headers.

HELP NEEDED! PICTURES NEEDED! ADVICE NEEDED!!!


(with old-G20 Van steering joint)

 

The best way seems to be with ram horns.

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nice car bud..the geo van steering joints look big and bulky id remove those for a start.i used blockheaders from speedway to put a sbc into my 38 chevy pu but if I started over id use truram headers from speedway.they move the headers up higher relative to the rocker covers.the headers may get you more clearance around no7 cylinder.

 

Fenderwell headers may be an option, I used them on one of my F1s. or modify a set of headers, lots of short and mid length ones out there. I set all of that up while making the mounts, so myself I would consider unbolting the engine, putting it where it needs to be for exhaust and steering clearance, and making new mounts.
From the looks of your pictures there is plenty of room to move the engine up higher and possibly forward as well. You can also offset to the passenger side as needed, the most I have had to do is 1/2" over.

 

the motor should have never been installed without the manifolds, steering, radiator, etc in mind. a professional would have these "big problems" solved. yes there are concessions to be made, sometimes just moving the motor over, forward/back or up/down solves them easily. thinking "big picture" is what makes a professional install.

 

HERE HERE

 

just an example. installed in a 33 chevy. note steering box, exhaust,and mechanical clutch linkage. installed in an engine compartment smaller than yours.

 

I'm also thinking a rams horn style manifold will work.

 

This is a 454 in a 47 Chevrolet sedan delivery with a Richmond 5 speed trans, clutch linkage and all, had to switch the emergency brake to a cable system, and it is a different front suspension, but You just might have to go this route with your steering box, Block Huggers and a "around the corner" steering shaft.
Borgeson steering U joints (3) and a center carrier bearing, All just normal arrangement.

 

Is the fan to radiator clearance good? If so, you may not be able to move the engine much. Steering and exhaust you have some suggestions on, do what fits and works. Then route your plug wires. Maybe some of those heat sleeves if your wires run too close to the headers and you're worried about cooking them.


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Did you make that header?



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Need to use smaller, (e.g. Borgeson), u-joints, should provide some room. Usually a rams horn exhaust from a late 60's (?) Chevrolet truck will clear, the don't dump straight down, but sort've down and to the back, provides much more clearance. As mentioned, shorty center dumps or fender well headers will work. Another thing to address in the future: You won't be able to use that long water pump, won't have enough clearance between fan and radiator. You need to use the earlier short water pump and pulleys, and find a steel 7 blade fan, should be the ticket.
Good luck.

 

You might look into getting headers made for small block installation into an S10 frame. The headers for cylinders three and five go straight out and then turn down so that a steering shaft will go between them and the engine. I have a set that I would let go cheap that I used for fitment but they're just uncoated regular Steel. I have a picture somewhere but having trouble finding it right now if you're interested I'll take new a picture.

 

By the way the previous suggestion to get the engine set in place front to rear and side by side first is good. After I found that I didn't have enough clearance at the front of the engine after everything was installed I had to redo everything including exhaust pipes engine mounts, etc. to move the engine back two inches to clear the radiator so get your radiator set, firewall clearance and all that stuff then worry about the steering shaft.

 

those are original hedman headers from 1957. they were modified to hook around the steering box by my dad and uncle when they were teen agers.

 

Your disco era F body in the background seems to be enjoying your lament dude.

you may need to re-engineer that steering link, I'm not sure rams will clear number 7 and the existing steering

 

you have to think ten steps ahead. everthing you do affects something down the road. move the motor a half inch right and the column a half inch left,

 

I laugh at myself a lot. Your dilemma is the an answer to that eternal question. I have heard Michelangelo solved his by taking away everything that was the purest form inside his head. Take the engine out and replace the sheet metal, including,as has been mentioned, including the radiator. Drop the engine back in and measure like your life depended on it. Know inside your head what needs to be massaged to get the engine back in with the exhaust manifolds or headers on. Minimize the steering joints with those suggested. If it takes several tries, remember this old hot rodder saying. "The third one is the one I was looking for." Numbers may vary according to how grumpy Murphy's gremlins are.

 

I'm more familiar with stock steering. this set up looks like it will work with the right stuff.
You have to think mechanical.
Why is there stacked U Joints?
Do you need any U joints at all?
What column are you using?
What about just a rag joint and no U joints?
What about eliminating the U joint closest to the firewall?

These manifolds should dump behind the angle of the steering gear.
There were some Y block headers that rear dump and hug the firewall.

These will not fit a Chevrolet but a good exhaust or header man should be able to make similar.
You may can tweak the angle of the column some.
You can adjust the position of the engine some.
With some clever exhaust choices and some steering gear/column modifications, you should be able to proceed.
What is fan clearance?

 

If you can find one a tri five chevy exhaust manifold works well they dump more towards the front there are also others that dump to the front. Here's a picture of the tri five and another one I think came off a truck you can run the numbers to see hope this will help.

 

Some of the Z28 Camaro manifolds had a nice exit out the back. I see them as used on evilBay all the time and probably someone makes them new but for big $$$.

 

I have a '41 coupe with 350/th350 but it has a MII front so there isn't the packaging issue with the steering box etc. However, the think a good few steps ahead still applies! Are you having an under floor master and a twin exhaust? If so there's precious little room to fit an exhaust if you have an auto trans, unless the exhaust runs below the frame which is fine if you're not particularly low.
Chris

 

I can understand your wanting to improve the steering but a setup real similar to your original steering was used in Corvettes up though 62 with small blocks. I'd say by changing to that steering box you invented more problems than you fixed and the way large u joints don't help either.

 

Thank you very very much for all of your answers and tips!!!

I will rethink everything and try to use all of your tech-tips one after another by starting the easiest way with the parts I already have here (flaming river u-joints, dd-shaft and column). And yes - to install the radiator by trying to relocate the engine might be also helpfull!!!

Thank you again!

Greetings from Berlin/Germany
Oliver

 

I'm trying to put a 350 4 speed in my 47 chevy fleetmaster 2 door and I need all the help you need. Like I need to know what clutch peddle to use and moter mounts and trans mount. HELP...

 

You might try headers for SBC
in a S-10.

https://www.summitracing.com/search...7c14TGhn0fJFKgAOJlzdRmkdVljsrnuhoCi24QAvD_BwE

 

fenderwell stainless...these might clear , look bad ass too... https://www.ebay.com/itm/265767296701?ViewItem=&item=265767296701&vxp=mtr

 

I don't have headers, just the stock units. No problems with clearance anywhere.

 

Mine is an earlier '39, but same frame, and issues. The Fat Fender Chevy headers sold at many places and Ebay are the best solution. They get everything outside the engine bay and avoid all the steering, and frame interference issues. I've got polished stainless versions on mine, and they work great, and really made steering shafts easy to run.