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Technical Air Condition in 56 Buick

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Sgt. John, Jul 16, 2017.

  1. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 208

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Has anyone ever put a aftermarket A.C. unit in a 56 Buick and was it a lot of trouble and how good did it work
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. Is the engine in good shape? if so there is no reason why you can't install air conditioning and it's really not that difficult if you use a under dash unit.

    I would recommend using Vintage Air and you will be happy with the quality and the efficiency of the unit. HRP
     
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  3. X2 what HRP said. Use an old underdash unit, or new repro that looks like the underdash. Mount the compressor on the engine, the condenser in front of the radiator, and then get some custom hoses made. Some simple wiring and then assuming no leaks and proper charge, you are ready for cold air blowing.
     
  4. Sheep Dip
    Joined: Dec 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,572

    Sheep Dip
    Member
    from Central Ca

    I've done 2 complete units now they are very simple to do and here's my advice for installing to make life a little easier and File 13 to a minimum .

    Buy a kit, a complete kit that is advertised to have everything and every component to complete a system. You will still need to buy extra fittings and possibly hose as required.
    The kit will come with complete instructions to guide you.

    Get the biggest condenser from you kit supplier you can easily and comfortably fit to within 1/4" of your front radiator fin surface, and still hook up with relative ease. If possible add a electric fan to it set up on a relay to come on with the compressor.

    Mount the dryer in the coolest area you can, up front with the condenser is a good place if possible, but it's not a do or die situation, most dryers will have a compressor high side cut out switch mated to it that your compressor hot lead will need to pass thru. When testing the engagement of the compressor clutch you will have to jump this connection as it will take about 30 psi to activate it which you won't have until the system is evacuated and charged.

    Purchase a bulkhead manifold to penetrate the firewall it will take 4 extra fittings but well worth it. This will make the hose routing and hose make up much simpler to the evaporator inside the car.

    With the fittings supplied in your kit temporarily installed, figure what will work for your desired hose routing, and what you need fitting wise to order, to make it work, you will use mostly 90's, 45's and possibly even a 135 degree fitting or two, I personally have not found any use for the straight fittings they send with the kit's, I'm sure there is an application I just have not found it.

    You will need... or need access to, a hose sleeve crimping tool. Depending on the supplier of the fittings you will find the hoses push on easy or it takes a big corn fed boy to get them on, you can spray a little 3M liquid silicon lube on the barbs and inside the hose to help with the difficult ones.
    You will basically be working with 3 sizes of fittings and hoses..#6, #8 and #10
    #6 being the small High Pressure hose is usually the tough tight ones to get on, #8 is also a High Pressure hose but has a little more wall for stretch/give, #10 on the suction side seem always go on easy.
    Make sure you get the hose all the way in to the end of the sleeve, there will be a little hole in the far end sleeve to make sure of 100% insertion.

    Route, cut and install and bundle/tie all your hoses to your satisfaction. Be sure and leave enough hose slack for compressor belt removal and tightening, this is where those 135 degree fittings come in handy.
    Now put a piece of masking tape around each hose next to each sleeve to be crimped and using a felt marker give yourself some matching alignment marks on both the sleeve and tape. Very important step as once they are crimped the joints don't move or swivel, if not aligned they will not go back as you bundled and tied them.

    Then remove the hoses and crimp or take to be crimped making sure the alignment marks are lined up and the hose is all the way in the sleeve. Reinstall your hoses with the O-rings lubed with the 3M silicon and just snug them, as it is the O-ring that seals not brute strength.

    Once the system is complete, unless you have the means yourself, any A/C service can pull a vacuum on the system to boil out the moisture, then charge it with the appropriate refrigerant and oil if the compressor is not pre-oiled from the factory, most but not all are pre oiled. Take your instructions with you as the technician will have questions.

    It is really not a difficult thing to do.......Just my 2 cents worth.
     
    BJR, shivasdad and Budget36 like this.

  5. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    Vintage Air makes a dash hang on unit for $299 thats what I'd use.

    Gary
     
  6. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,898

    BJR
    Member

    Nice write up Sheep Dip.
     
  7. Sheep Dip
    Joined: Dec 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,572

    Sheep Dip
    Member
    from Central Ca

    Thanks BJR, always like to pass along helpful info.
     
  8. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 208

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Thanks...Wifey wanted to know... she wants to get it done for a gift motor runs really good
     

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