Hey there.. sooo.. Im having difficulty id-ing exactly what this motor is.. and how much I should sell it for.. GM casting #3782870 Engine Code F0422S and the Intake # 3844459. I know its a 62-65 327..but outta what? Is it corvette? But to sum it up..what would you sell it for? Or what would you pay for it? Sorry for dumb questions..but value your input Thanks
Block number is 62-67 327 Intake number is 64-65 300HP could have been Corvette but not exclusive to it What are the head numbers including the cast dates? I recently sold a complete similar for $300
1962-1964 250hp 327 from a full size pg equipped car used the S suffix......not sure if the heads are right though, pretty sure 250hp used power pacs and smaller base carb......need casting numbers and dates
I just sold a 283 to a friend. Told him to have it checked out, then if it was buildable we exchange money. That is hard to do with a stranger or someone out of town however. Wish I had a 327 to build!!
As it sits with not knowing what shape it is inside including how much water got down the intake while it sat outside giving 100 bucks for it would be a gamble playing the odds that it was rebuildable. I'm not a fan of buying engines torn apart but this time I think that if you want any money out of it over basic parts house core price you need to tear it down and make sure that the heads aren't cracked, Make sure that it didn't get blown up or be broken internaly and make sure it didn't fill up with water and rust the crap out of everything. Worn to the point it needs bored, not an issue, needs a full and complete valve job including guides not an issue. Who ever really wants that engine will go clear though it anyhow but from what the others said it isn't some holy grail special editon 327 that commands big bucks from some collector.
The problem with the older iron (if you want to call it that), is that unless you are looking to correctly restore or build correct, the machine work is so expensive,... and I totally get that it cost money. Some guy's have the means to do their own, but to the guy like me that just wants a driver with a little pep, you can buy a 4 bolt crate motor complete long block for the price of just a rotating assembly by a reputable machine shop. So as has been stated unless you find that special gotta have it buyer...it's a core. A year ago my son ordered a 290 HP 350 4 bolt long block from Jeg's...$2000 and free shipping. Runs Perfect.
I would pay 50 to 200 for it and sell it for about 350. The last one i did was a free, virgin block cast in november 1961. It cost about 1600 to do a stock rebuild with a l79 cam and 2.02 valves.
Depends on what shape it's in internally. You'll need to disassemble it a bit to know. Is it a good core or junk?. Maybe it's already .030 over-(or more). As 48 chev said; pull the heads for inspection and mic/inspect the cylinder walls. Any prospective buyer will be asking you to do this or be asking if he can pull the heads on site before exchanging money.
If its not locked up. Pull the oil pan and you can measure the bore from the bottom. then take a look at the bearings. If they are not showing copper. put it back together and get it running. It aint gotta be in a vehicle to run. rig it up to hold water and hook up a oil pressure guage. A starting running 327 should easily bring $500. As it now is you would be lucky to get that $100 .
You can advertise on some of the forums like Chevelle, Camaro, Nova and Corvette or Craigslist even. I got lucky on mine as I knew a fellow with a 64 Chevelle who needed an era correct block so he took the whole enchilada, but at "Core" pricing.
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