Customs Removed electric fans, car won't start; what'd I do?

I've been having cooling issues with my car for some time now. The reason being is the fan I was running (before I had electric fans installed), was spinning the incorrect way (fox-body mustangs changed the direction of the water-pump 1/2 way through and apparently I had the wrong fan). So I installed a correctly bladed flex-fan after removing the electric fans.

But now, she no start.

Eventually, I need to rewire my car myself in the simplest way possible, but that won't happen for some time.

So I'm running an edelbrock 4-barrel, and the fans on/off switch was wired through (what I'm guessing) is the electric choke (the post with the un-wired terminal).
Before I go and ruin anything else, can anyone tell me if not having power to the electric choke would keep it from running, in the summer no less? Because it cranks fine but will not catch- Or maybe I'm identifying the wrong component?

Please guys, this really sucks.

 

Check for spark, if spark, then manually choke it.

 

To answer the question ~ NO the choke does not have to be hooked up for the car to run.
The Choke uses two wires, a ground (Usually black on that Edelbrock carb, and goes to one of the mounting screws for the choke) and Power. Where does that White wire off the choke go? (That should be the Power wire). The one that has the yellow terminal should be the ground wire.
If the wire terminal just above "Ford" in the picture is the one you took off, where do the red and black wire that are hooked to that spade connector go?

 

The answer to your problem is simple. IT'S A FORD

Sent from my SM-J700T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

A mustang on the HAMB? how dare you. LOL.

 

It's a 57 Ford with a 302 from a Mustang

 

Dammit guys I feel stupid.

25 amp fuse burned out.... ON THE COIL!

Hats off to D2-willys, thanks man!

 

I get it. ALL IS GOOD BUD. mustang is a bad word on the HAMB. Send pics of the truck. sounds like its a cool truck.

 

Now I have to ask why there is a 25A fuse on the coil? And what caused it to blow? Ignition doesn't pull anywhere near that. The wiring sounds, and looks, pretty scary

 

Flex fans suck. I'd use an engine driven steel bladed fan.

Gary

 

Kinda why I didn't reply earlier. ...Not to mention the fuel line.

 

Band aids on band aids on band aids. Installations like that are scary and it makes me wonder how fucked up everything else is? It's not even easy to troubleshoot when everything is a mess, let alone fix.

I'd say rip it all out and re do it properly, but who are you going to trust? The last thing you would want is a fire. That's worse than a hot engine.

 

The wiring for the Choke is nowhere near big enough to handle the fan requirements.
You've got a fire waiting to happen. Stop this nonsense

 

Yes, I'm super unhappy with all the work I've received at literally every shop, and it's been to at least 3 in the past few years. Every owner see's all the custom work that's been done to it and is like "oh, easy money". Don't have any current pics, so I'll post a few old ones.

Literally, everything is fucked and I almost cry tears of joy when it runs (and it IS my only [occasional] running vehicle-).

Public transit sucks!!! Hahaha, had to say it!

 

It was grandpa's best friends (Harry), the first automatic grandpa ever drove (but grandpa taught me to drive on his '53 chevy longbed that was granny-geared, so I had to go stick with it!) Harry sold to my aunt in ... '62 I think? Everyone on my mom's side of the family learned to drive on it, from my aunt, mom, uncle to brother (and me, maybe a few friends I don't know of in between...?). I think it was parked in the mid-70's (uncle got a roadrunner!) and grandpa tried to sell it once but the fella low-balled him so he kept it a bit longer- Then I was born and when I was in 7th grade it was given to me!!! (A middle-schooler, having a car? Grandpa taught me to drive in 4th grade, no worries! Hahaha, granny and grandpa's was a few hours away, I worked on it all summer long, more than once, only got to drive it off-road around the rice-fields up in Nor-Cal outside Sacramento).

I got some money when I was still a kid (via lawyers and a TBI, but that money's spent and gone and so I tried to fix it up with my settlement money but, same story, screwed at every turn (I promised myself I'd live in the car before selling it, now I live in a mobile home instead [coulda bought a two-story house probably, maybe not in CA though]).
So like I said, I'm just happy when it runs and isn't on the back of a tow-truck.

Dad hates old cars and isn't into it, mom's tried to help but... well, ya know. Ladies. I'm trying to learn wiring and everything (and for never having autoshop I'm doing pretty good) but, factually speaking, I've got "brain problems/focusing issues" and I get distracted by every shiny thing out there, so any project I try to undertake rarely gets finished with me at the wheel.

I grew up wanting it to be a perfect show car but again, like I said, I'm just super happy when it runs.

Big sob story, sorry guys.
Here's a pic of it before, when the work was all me (and this was the one time I even tricked dad into helping me with wiring the doors!) .

 

Didn't post this pic of me "tracing the white wire"-
Yeah... not super happy

 

Painless, American auto wire or one of the other brands of wiring harness's available for sale.
Get rid of all the wiring in the car and start over before you burn it to the ground.
Oh yeah, find somebody who can help you before you screw something else up and waste your money on a harness. Even check with your local votech school . They are not as lost as a dog with a bible.

 

Funny it looks like it was re-wired at some point, that's no OG '57 Ford wiring job.

 

WHOA!!

 

I'm trying to find a super-simplified wiring diagram with blinkers, an alternator and electronic ignition.
Anybody have any diagrams to be checked out?
Thanks!

 

You have a true cluster there. As already said. Rip it all out and install a good aftermarket harness. They aren't that expensive. Time for you to learn the electrical side of driving an old car. You picked this hobby now buckle down and do it right.

 

Everybody is giving advise, why don't one of you guys close to him give him a hand? He sounds as he'd like to learn, but hasn't had anybody to guide him the proper direction. I would love to help, but I'm on the other side of the country. Surely there is somebody around his area that could guide him the right direction.

 

That cluster really needs to be torn out and start from scratch. There are many good quality kits on the market with easy to follow instructions. Painless being the best for a rookie

 

I just did a search for 1957 ford car wiring and came up with a bunch for the car. Sounds like that's the place to start, then go for the added on stuff.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?...608031215965898742&selectedIndex=0&ajaxhist=0

 

How about you post where you are?

What is customarily referred to as Nor Cal is about the size of 1/4th of the West Coast of the continental US.

 

Right near where the beer "Sierra Nevada" is brewed (Chico, CA). Yes, I'm in Paradise.
I miss the city by the bay though, was there about 6-months!

 

As said, the current wiring is dangerous. While a full rewire can be scary, just conduct yourself as you would on any job, one step at a time. Before simply tearing out the old, start with a large piece of paper or the stock wiring diagram and mark down what is currently wired, front to back.
This will allow you to figure out how many circuits are needed and what components you already have.
Here is the 1957 ford WD
Print out a few copies to use as a guide.



Also get the WD for the engine, since it's different. It will have 12V alternator/regulator, starter and electronic ignition. Looks like a 75-up Ford.

Here's a generic Ford EI diagram


Here's a 1983 F150 Ford starting/charging diagram

These are found with a simple internet search.

Note any special connectors, like the slip on coil connector in this picture
This will apply to the factory lights, switches, instruments, engine, and accessories.
This are a pain to track down and buy without knowing what they are. Document them BEFORE tearing it all out. Save them if possible, to match up for new or reuse. Leave them connected or bag and tag them! You can cut the wire a few inches back from the connector and use this to splice in the new wiring.


Also do NOT expect a 1957 firewall junction block or ignition switch to handle the more modern electrical loads. A generator indicator will now signal an alternator fault.

Armed with this, you can talk to the suppliers with the following info
Components you need to wire
What circuits are needed
What accessories are included (door solenoids? radio? spot lights?)
What tools will you need

They should be able to help you select what's right for you. Pay attention to the level of technical help they provide. You will probably need to call during the install. The cheaper kit with some guy in Delhi as tech support is no bargain compared to Billy in Iowa who will spend an hour with you and knows every color already.
Once the new harness is in hand, simply follow the directions and do it a circuit at a time. Note any changes or different stuff on the instructions as you go. This will help with troubleshooting down the road.
Always allow a bit of extra wire for movement and flex, as well as repair of the connection. When connecting any grounds, make sure the surface is clean! More problems are found on the ground side than the power side, unless your stuff looks like this car. A ground from the body to frame, and another from engine to frame really help.

 

Looks like an aftermarket harness, seeing all the wires marked. Undo them and lay them out, you should be able to eliminate a lot of mess.

 

That's what I was thinking, the pic is blurry, but it looks like the wires have writing on them to indicate where they go. It might actually be wired correctly, just the wire is not loomed together and it makes it look like a spaghetti mess. Still wouldn't hurt to let a good pair of eyes look it over and make some corrections if needed.

 

A local electrical shop here charges $75.00 per hour and could have you done in a day. I am in Florida.
If I lived closer I would help you out. Check out what does work correctly on your car and fix what doesn't and don't create more problems.