Hot Rods Quick gauge question for the electrical gurus...

So... My 66 Chevy C10 hasn't had a working volt or temp gauge since one of my dads employees tried to "fix" the wiring 20 years ago. We suspected we had a problem when large amounts of smoke began pouring out from under the hood & dash and sure enough he burned up half the wiring on the truck. We spliced some wires together and got the truck running and working again except for the temp and volt gauges.

Fast forward to today. I just want a set of working gauges in the truck and am thinking of changing everything over to a complete set of aftermarket gauges.

Question: I read on the web that the Autometer gauges can use the original fuel sending unit. Is this true? Obviously if I don't have to get into the gas tank that would be easier. The truck has the original GM sending unit.

I don't think it's worth trying to save the original gauges unless of course it's not too big of a deal fix the volt and temp stuff.

I just want the truck to work right and can't decide what's the simplest, more practical way to go.

-Fix the stock gauges or go aftermarket?

If aftermarket what do y'all recommend?

Thanks in advance.

-Ron

 

Maybe there is nothing wrong with the original gauges. It is probably just the burned up wiring. You will have to fix or replace the wiring anyway for the aftermarket gauges, so why not fix it and use the stock gauges?

 

I guess I could try. My problem is I don't know if the gauges are bad, sending units are bad, or what.

Any simple way to test the gauges with a meter or something?

 

I agree with BJR, either way you go, you will have to repair or replace the wiring that got damaged, so why not stay with the original gauges?

If you do go aftermarket, you want a gas gauge that reads 0 ohms empty and 90 ohms full, to correspond with the stock gas tank sending unit.

 

Gas gauge is easy, wire from tank to one side switched power to the other. You just have to know which side gets the switched power. Same with temp gauge, power to one side other side to sender in engine. It may say on the back of the gauges which lug goes to power or to sender. Are you sure it's a volt gauge and not an amp gauge? Don't remember any vehicles that had a volt gauge in 66.

 

Question: I read on the web that the Autometer gauges can use the original fuel sending unit. Is this true? Obviously if I don't have to get into the gas tank that would be easier. The truck has the original GM sending unit.

You will have to know what ohm range your sender is then just simply order the correct range Auto Meter fuel gauge

 

BJR- you are correct. It is an amp gauge.

I broke down and ordered a set of Omega Kustom Industries gauges from Speedway today.

Just wanted to get it fixed quick and easy. I'll save the old cluster in case I ever want to go back.

I ran a set of Omega's on the Fordor project and they were good quality and easy to make work so hopefully I won't have any problems.

I'll post some pics when I get them installed.

Thanks for the replies...

 

The ammeter in a 66 Chevy truck is a shunt type, it's just a low voltage volt meter that reads the voltage across the main power feed wire between the battery and the rest of the truck (except for the starter). You should be able to make it work without much trouble. It is a "safe" ammeter, as it does not carry the full current load of the whole electrical system.

The gas gauge is 30 ohms....I think...measure the resistance between the sender wire and ground, with more than half a tank of gas it would be 45 to 90 ohms if it's the late model 90 ohm sender, or 15 to 30 ohms if it's the early 30 ohm sender.