Projects "Fly'nBrian" '34 Roadsterproject.

It steers! The throttle works! I have brake lines and hoses! K

 

Driveshaft: Done and installed. There's 2 fingers clearance at the back of the trans tunnel and floor under the seat. Good as it's gonna get. Front shock links: Done. Steering: Almost done. I discovered (or just noticed) that the hole for the drag link on the steering arm on the right side is tapered from top to bottom. Opposite of the tie rod. This means I have to ream the bottom half of the hole to put the tie rod in from bottom up. There's always something...

 

Is that really how you want to run the double U joint in the steering?

 

And did you weld on the steering shaft?

 

The shaft is pinned and welded, and I guess I don't know how else to run the double U-joint. Too much angle?

 

Too much angle.
Can you put a u-joint where the weld is and eliminate the top u-joint and rod end?

 

It's a shade less than 30 degrees, but I was concerned too. The column has a wobble joint inside the bottom end, I tried to keep it straight, and let the heim joint support the shaft, but I could I guess make the frame bracket a bit longer, swing the bottom of the column over a little and lose a bit of the angle. Nothing a cut off wheel and some more thought won't fix. Which is why I post photos, because somebody out there knows a lot more than I do...

 

Look a lot cleaner without the double u-joint and rod end,

 

Hmmm. There is a U joint, or a flex coupler, in the base of the column, the shaft you can see (that I welded the double D shaft to, is only about 3" long below that), so that still leaves 3 U joints, and a need for the heim joint support.

 

I may be wrong, but I believe those double joints are designed to operate where a single does not get enough angle - they are not designed for shaft misalignment to operate where each section works against each other.

Also are those splined or just the one set screw?

 

Splined in the Vega box end, double D on the steering column end. I can move the bottom of the column toward the engine a bit and lose some of the angle.

 

That's good - but I still don't think those joints are designed to work like that in rotation.
I was always told they were for use like this - to get more angle than a single could provide

 

You need Quik-Glo for those wheels order some up, will make that bad wheel look new

 

The wobble joint on the column is not meant for a sharp angle. With that in mind, a possible solution would be to trim the column back, cut the wobble off, turn, pin and weld DD on for a 2 joint system. I really don't recommend welding on steering components, but it's better if you're certified. Or very good.

 

That's why I kept the shaft straight, and used the heim joint. The issue is that I made the support bracket a bit to short, causing more mis-alignment than I, and all of you, like. Looking at it, and thinking about it overnight, it's no big deal at this point (and easy enough to do), to cut the bracket off, swing the bottom of the column over about 3/4", so as to line up the column and steering box a bit better, and make a new bracket for the support. There'll be less angle that the double joint will have to endure, and I won't get into the guts of the column and shifter.

 

Looking good Brian, you are getting close.

 

There. I fixed it. Thanks to the guys who said, "You aren't going to run that U-joint that way, are you?", I cut the bracket off the frame for the support joint, made a new one that put the support bearing 3/4" over to the right, and moved the whole column up 3/8". Now, it looks better, no binding, and I had to repaint that inside rail again anyway. ;-)

 

That was fast work

 

LOL, it has to be fast, like "American Hot Rod" or "Gas Monkey Garage", I have an artificial deadline and I'm over budget! There has to be some drama! It only took an hour to do it right. ;-)

 

Your on it Brian and it's getting there quickly! Joe

 

I'll bet it works a lot smoother, too. Good job!

 

At least you don't have to worry about tripping over or combing your beard.

 

I do use beard oil (smell'um) in my beard. ;-)

 

Honestly that is not how I would have fixed that. I would have shortened the column portion of the shaft and put a standard U-joint there. The toss away the support bearing and the wobble joint and put a standard U-Joint at the box. You are still using that wobble in a way it isn't really designed for and over complicating it.
Look at the bottom installation in this picture. It would make your installation cleaner, simpler and safer.

 

The original shaft and whatever joint or coupling it has are now dead straight, as it was intended to be. It may be a vibration damper? Anyway, I'm happy with it as is, the angles now on the double joint are not extreme. Thanks for the input, I'm moving on to next thing I will do twice, brake and fuel lines.

 

Or, by wobble joint are you referring to the double U joint at the box? I don't see why that won't work in this position?

 

Will it work? It Might be OK, but it really isn't what they were intended to do in a steering application. Under load it might get a heavy or notchy feel as it tries to bind as it wants to flex in two different directions. You won't know until you put the dynamic load of actually driving it - turning it in your garage won't do the same thing.
Like I say, it MAY be OK, personally I would just do it right, as the steering and U-Joint manufacturers recommend.

 

is it the opposite angles of the joint on each side?

 

Sigh... Doing three times now...

 

It will be worth it in the end.