Technical 265 Mopar Flathead compression readings

Any machine shop, ('Machine job shop') Yellow pages. Have them take material off behind the teeth, 1/4" back and down in about .75", clear back to rear. More if it doesn't interfere with pressure plate bolt holes. (best to leave those! LOL)
Also best to have flywheel and pressure plate balanced as a unit before installing...
Disc is usually 'neutral'.

 

Minor setback! I noticed small crack on the 2nd cylinder exhaust valve seat.

Interestingly, the piston had high compression.

 

The motor is a local race engine shop getting a full rebuild with a custom cam and will be dyno tested as well.
Expensive but hopefully we’ll worth it at the end.
I’ll post details of the rebuilt along with dyno results when it’s done here shortly

 

Very important when reassembling to follow the proscribed sequence for torqueing the head. And very important to retorque after a heat cycle. Also recommend doing the sequence in three go arounds, 50, 60, 70. When warm do 65, then 70. Buy a good gasket do copper side down with copper spray. Leave steel side dry or coat with a thin layer of April grease. If you look at the casting you will see the cylinders are basically 3 pairs of 2. The casting between the paired cylinders is thinner compared to the casting between one pair and the next. The typical failure of the head gasket is a blowout of that thin area and most occur between 5&6 where the temp is highest. That is why true surfaces and proper torque procedure is critical to good gasket life.

Notice you have the AOK triple single intake, any other mods on the engine?

 

Thanks for the advice. I’ve been reading up on these engines for a few years now and was thinking of doing it myself in order to make sure I do all the mods that people recommend. Ie, custom cam, cross drilling the crank, shaving the head, decking the block etc.
Since I’m more of a body and paint guy, I decided to leave it all to a local speed shop to rebuilt the engine. They’ve done a few before and they seemed excited about doing mine since it’ll have a triple, and split exhaust.
Here are a few details, Custom built cam, shaved head (Spitfire head) or an older Edmunds aluminum head (If I can get the cracks fixed and there’s enough of the chamber left), shaved deck, split exhaust, Langdon’s HEI distributor. I’ll be running a T5 transmission behind it.

 

I have an Edmund's head, it was swiss cheese. Would push coolant through cracks between the fins. You can check it using duct tape, and compressed air. Cover all the cooling passage holes with a couple layers of tape. Then put some tape around you air blow gun and set the output for 15 #, blow air into the heater feed hole and listen for leaks. If you can't isolate any leaks, make op some water and food coloring. Pour in about a half cup and repressurize, that should pinpoint leaks large and small.

Except for the eye candy aspect you are probably farther ahead smiling the stock head. I want .o40 on mine, and did .010 off the block. Just check your valve height when fully opened and don't go to far. Hard to be sure there hasn't been previous work done. Mine worked out to about 8.9 to 1 vs 7.7 to 1 stock. I run about 6 degrees timing advance over stock. Big difference in response, still runs on regular with no complaints.

 

Thats Great Info, thanks for sharing. Im most likely going to go the cast-iron head way. i already got it resurfaced and took off .020 and will be decking the block becuase it was warped. Not sure if the head had been milled before and not sure how much will need to be taken off the block. This is my I decided tp take it to a reputable shop so they can be responsible for all of these items.