Technical Late 70's Mopar 440 draw through turbo

Attention all Hamb'ers who might have any info on this setup. First I know it's not necessarily a traditional setup but it is super cool. All I know about this particular design is that Chrysler had the market cornered in the late 70's as far as building the chassis for RV's. In addition to that there were several aftermarket companies that manufactured bolt on turbo kits for the 413-440 engines that were the draw through type and limited to roughly 4-7psi. I have also seen the bolt on draw through for the 360 too, one question I have is did they both have the water injection to cool the intake charge? Does anyone possibly have a literature on these draw through turbos as far as setup, tuning, and trouble shooting? I am planning on bolting it up to my 50' Dodge Coupe running a 64' 383 cuin in a mostly stock install and limit it to 7-8psi. Another question is how were they originally able to retard the timing as boost pressure climbed? Typically from what I have read you want a total of 34 deg timing and for every psi of boost retard back 2deg, how can this be accomplished without a digital turbo timer? Any and all info is greatly appreciated!
I am bummed that I have to pull the tripower off after I finally got it tuned!

 

I almost forgot but the turbo is a RotoMaster, in a RV TurboSonic kit, RotoMaster is still around and sells turbos but I found no listing for any type of draw through turbo only modern turbos. There is also a RayJay turbo that came with these kits as well and both have the T4 flanges.

 

for distributor timing use the MSD boost 6 AL unit . its better than the old 2 port dashpots they used on the distributor , they had a dashpot that would advance when it saw manifold vacuum and retard when it saw manifold pressure , I do not know if they even make them anymore . as for parts turbonetics the manufactuer for most of the parts in that kit is still around . as for turbos , modern turbos are way better in materials than the old units and they have better curves for what your using them for . I would look at a modern racing site like turbobullet.com for more help as them guys race and build turbo cars and trucks .

 

I was trying to stray away from an expensive msd boost timer. Turbonetics doesn't make this kit, it's made by RotoMaster. I was able to get in contact with the company today and they still offer a rebuild kit for the turbine I have now, basic stuff seals and bearing. They do have an redesigned compressor impeller that is more efficient but it is designed around a dry blow through and I want to run a wet draw through. I'm not wanting to build a 800-1000 hp motor, not yet anyways......I'm more wanting to build a low boost motor with 500-550 hp tops and just be fun to drive. This is just gonna be a basically stock 383 bottom end that I re-ringed and checked the bearings, mild hyd roller cam, aluminum heads and run 4-6psi normal and a max of 8psi under hard throttle. When I can save up some cash I plan to build another 500+ stroker rotating Assy and possibly do twin turbo setup if it can find another manifold and turbo. Plan to do a 4.25" crank, 6.535 BBC rod (.990 pin/ 2.20 big end) and 4.280 bore= 496"

 

wow......cool....diffidently different !

 

Thanks bud, I am just waiting till I can get some more info on this set up from RotoMaster, then this winter its going on the 50 Coupe.

 

you might want to check if it will fit,if it was made for a RB engine,413,426, and 440 block.The B engine is 361,383, and 400, the RB is called a raised block,not sure if the distance between the intake and exhaust manifolds are the same,due to the block heights,anyone familar with these engines will know what i mean,not real good at typing out answers?. Good Luck

 

Haha yeah they don't call me Mopar Rob for no reason, I'm aware of the different deck heights of the B & RB series engines. The charge tubes are no big deal I'll work them to fit my 383, I'm more concerned about what kind of Initial timing and carb setup RotoMaster recommended and timing retard vs boost pressure. Looks like I am going to get it all bolted on, set the dizzy at 34, breakdown and buy an MSD boost timer, and jump one or two jets on an old Proform 750 mechanical double pumper and see what happens!

 

All Mopar B & RB engines from 58 to the end of production have the same exhaust manifold bolt pattern, Intakes don't swap between due to the different deck heights.

 

Any updates? I have one also.

 

Do we feature traditional stuff or not?
I'll leave it to the mods!

 

Probably came across wrong so I deleted the thread. It was done by an outside vendor called RV Turbo out of Texas. Be cool old fashioned in an open rod.

 

this would literally be in the spirit of building hotrods...... no its not a 32 ford with a flatty but that's not the only way to build a hotrod either.

Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Sure. But this forum is about building hot rods not only with the traditional spirit, but also with the traditional parts...or at least to achieve a traditional look. A 70s/80s turbo setup isn't 50s/60s traditional. It's still neat, it's just off topic here.