Projects Model A pickup, my first build thread

How much compressed air pressure are you using? Could there be a blockage in line or gauge that is not allowing oil to show pressure but will do so with compressed air

 

I used air only on the gauge it self when it was in my hand. Not installed.

 

Is there a way to check line? Perhaps disconnect it at motor, check line and gauge, at same time?
Don't remember what pressure is normal, is pressure reading to low for gauge?

 

I started the car today and let it run aroun 30-60sec but still no readings at the gauge. Took the intake off to check the pressure valve but nothing big up there also.. Any suggestions?

 

Took the relief valve apart, cleaned it well, made a 1,2mm shim with lathe and assembled all back together. Took the gauge off and poured oil into the hole.. alot.. Gauge back started and VOILA.. I have now something like 7psi on idle and as soon as i rev the engine it goes to 30psi and littlebit over.. I guess that is enough. I should still buy a new oilpump for the future.

 

Way to go figuring out what was going on.

 

Congratulations! I absolutely hate oil pressure problems. Rebuilt a '64 Jag E-type, completely balanced and blueprinted, but it kept trashing cams and lifters because the oil wasn't getting to the head. Never figured it out, and finally sold it, giving the buyer full notice of the dilemma. Just hate those oil pressure mysteries.

 

Thanks for the support guys. Next problem. This engine does not have drain plugs for coolant installed. On the side of the block next to the waterpumps.. What is the thread on those? Tryed to search here and google but no help..

 

You always learn something new. I used wrong words when searching for that plug.. Since they did not have plugs but a pet cocks.. As soon as i typed pet cock i found out it was 1/4" NPT.. Tapped them clean and there it is. Ready for coolant.

 

Is this fucking normal... Fluids coning out of exhaust manifold bolt hole and the head stud in the middle? Exhaust bolt on one side. Head studs on both.

Fuck..

 

Does that particular headstud go to the waterline in the block? On both sides..

 

Couldn't tell you about the exhaust hole but I've done flatheads and have had that same problem with head studs, I just back it off and dry it good and just a thin dap of silicone on the bottom of the nut re torque and clean. Love your build, I've been silently fallowing since the beginning.

 

What trad27 says. My '29 A coupe had one of those surprises back in the day. Get it dry, seal the bottom of the bolt or stud, then remember not to take out that one unless you've got a pan underneath to catch the fluid.

 

Thanks guys. Nice to hear it is a common problem. I've read that it is common place to crack on the bock between waterline and this particular headstud. So i guess i just seal it and we are good to go. And the same thing for that exhaust header stud. I guess i will just glue stud in the hole and hope it keeps fluids in.

 

Testdrive.



Glued everything together with Kent sili-gasket 2. Brakes are shit.

 

Congrats.
Sometimes, I have to gravity bleed these brakes to get them to work best for me.

Singlefinger Speed Shop,
still lurking around Detroit

 

Today i will go to Dynotune the car.. Lets see what is left of the engine.
And now many many more of the headstuds are leaking.. I glued only the two that leaked at the first time but now about ten more leaks.. I have to take them all out and glue them Or i'll just try to toque the heads down one more time because of the copper headgaskets.

Also became an Alliance member today. Just to support such a great community.

 

Got to ride this on the street today.. What is that terrible knocking sound? Coming from the engine i guess.

 

That's not right! You've got to find the cause before firing this up again. I wish I had better advice, but something's really a problem and not going away until you find it and fix it.

 

That loud metallic sound comes from the cab doors. Sounds bad but not a problem but that knocking sound from the behind is coming from an engine or a transimmion. Did not have any time to investigate what was it but i have been suggested that it could be a pressure plate or pressure relief bearing at the gearbox.. Or some Valve is stuck etc.. Maybe even timing gear has something wrong with it.

I guess i'll start it one more time and check the toploader first and listen for the noice with some rubber hose or screwdriver to locate it better.

 

Sounds like it would come from the cylinder nr2.. Valve or something?

 

There is something wrong with this setup i guess.. How in the hell did they put that type of bolt to that pulley? Or more relevant how in the hell will i take it off..

 

Looks to me like a hand crank "adapter" for stock type banger. Looks like two pulley's welded at seam line of pulleys. A front and back perhaps. No idea how to take off. Have you checked for a "how to" on banger motors?

 

Looks like the best way to get to the bolt will be to cut with a hacksaw or grind the weld away, and then you will most likely be able to access the bolt when you remove the hand crank adapter.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Got it out pretty easy after scrathing my head and checking the facebook A chisel and a hammer. Few good hits on the chisel and the got it open..

 

Hold on kidz!
That hand crank adapter IS the bolt that holds the pulley on!
Get a manual, it helps.



Singlefinger Speed Shop,
still lurking around Detroit

 

I know it's a bolt and i needed to get it off since i had to take the pulley off. It's wrong pulley for that type of bolt.

I modified that pulley. Shortened the shaft so that the bolt can be opened with normal tool onstead of chisel and a hammer. Also cut the welds from the pulley and straigtened it in a lathe with bearing tool. The pulley was goin 8 when spinning It was a mess and the belt was almost gone after 20min of running the engine. Now it's straight.

Still not sure of that knocking sound.. I guess one std piston in a oversize bore can do that also..

 

Put everything back together. Glued every stud with Kent and sprayed a coat of copper glue on the gaskets. Fingers crossed that it won't leak..

The noise is still unknown. Maybe it's the valve clearance, maybe it's the one std piston in an overbored hole.. Maybe. I did not take it all apart to see the bearings. Let's see what happens.

Sent from my G3121 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

50mph..











First 75 miles trip to Pistons Rumble. The engine is shit. Coming back home it didn't want to start after small break even with jumper cables. Cars battery was ok.

The knock coming from the engine is like hitting jt with the hammer. So i guess the bearings are finnished and it did not have enough force to start it. Seizing.. We push started it and i drove it home.

The radiator spits water all the time and the pressure in upper hoses is huge.

Well.. I made it. Just don't know how long it will work..

Sent from my G3121 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

memory says there was a tiny pypass somewhere in the stock oil filter system, needed to be blocked or bypassed if you don't use the ford filter ?