These will clear with zero alterations in a 1952-59 with a 302/5.0 swap https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/another-sbf-header-for-53-woohoo.1058469/ Or the HEDMAN 88400 https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/albums/hedman-88400.45641/
So another oddball question. Cheap aftermarket temp gauge is reading 210, while a temp probe and an infrared thermometer say water temp is more like 160. Not a big deal, as as long as it always reads the same I'm good, except that's almost pegging the gauge. Anyone know where to start with a resistor to get a closer reading? I'm not too concerned about exact reading, just would like to back the gauge off a bit.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/resistor-for-temp-gauge.660639/ Found this thread, I like the thought of an adjustable variable resistor. I'm still open for suggestions, but I'll try a few things and share my results.
So as to the sun visor brackets, I was able to find some serviceable brackets from a 1958. Not an exact match, but with a little persuasion and bending the arms a little, they look like they will work fine. Thanks to bobss396 for the idea!
Now for a break, out to lunch. Ran her hard in 100ºF and she was a champ, great oil pressure, good temp, everything seems solid, and she sure seems happier...
Get your tires balanced at a place that has stick on weights on the back side only. The hammer on weight really jumps out at you. But the rest of the car is AWESOME.
So I got the Temp gauge displaying properly. Bought some Bourns variable resistors ended up using a 100Ω and dialing it in slightly. I call that close enough for a hot rod, and it's nice not to see the gauge pegged. Oh and I tidied up the resistor, that was the mock up to get it dialed in, but this way you can see it
I REALLY like yer Ford, In a group, I would head right for it,,, cause it shore looks good in pictures !!!!
So added a HEI dizzy for simplicity's sake (and further cleaned up the firewall). I know the issues and problems, and pros and cons; for example I know I need to get a spare control module and throw it in the glove box. I dislike the size, but there is something about retrofitting an GM product onto a Ford and you can't beat the function and simplicity. Need to clean up the wires...
So in preparation for AC, I need to add a better radiator. I thought I had it all figured out. I got an aftermarket radiator, had the outlet swapped to the passenger side (to eliminate the crossover lower radiator hose). It will be a brilliant clean installation... So, I go to install it and the mounting brackets are on backwards (facing back instead of forward). And the radiator is too wide to fit any other way. Even if I flip the brackets the right way the radiator is too wide to fit closer forward. I could cut up all the front sheet metal to make it fit, but that seems way too drastic, I'd rather get a smaller radiator and fab up brackets. So assuming all that, the problem is twofold: First, it puts the radiator too close to the engine and fan in my current configuration. Second, it creates a weird gap in the surround/latch. This might not be too bad once I add the AC condenser and dryer, but seems odd to me now. Upon reviewing ALL the 1956 aftermarket radiators I can find, they all are that way (backwards mounting brackets and too wide). So a couple of questions for the group: 1. Do I just scrap all this nonsense and re-core the existing? My worry here is the AC in hot TX summers. I realize I could have a new one made up from scratch or something, but first I'd like to see if I can't sort what I have out. 2. Do I need the U shaped radiator support? It seems I could remove that, and mount the radiator a little farther forward, that might be the optimum solution. I could also either grind down the existing support, or weld up a new one if the view is that it's a necessary item. Of course, nothing fixes that gap all the way. Really not sure how I feel about that. 3. Anyone have a better idea? What are others running? If I can get something that works right, I guess I'm open...
It's been a little while since doing mine but I seem to recall the yolk is turned around and aluminum blocks are used as spacers to push the radiator all the way forward. I found some pictures from the install that might help.
Correct. It looks like most of the aftermarket radiators look correct, but the "ears" on the mounting brackets face the wrong way, and most seem too wide to easily fit in the radiator support and no way will fit in the front apron without some serious chopping. In measuring my new aftermarket radiator, it is 23" wide, vs the 19" of the original, and as I said the brackets are backwards. Kinda stupefied that all the aftermarkets are wrong like this. I'm thinking they scaled down, or mislabeled a F100 radiator then all copied each other?
I should have mentioned that my car was originally an I6 car so it had a different front apron than the V8 cars.
Just went out and checked, looks like it should still work a treat. I'll need to move the horns back a bit to clear the mounting brackets, but my biggest issue was going to be the huge gap, your trick really minimizes that.
I'm needing a radiator soon for my 56, now don't know what to get! 64-69 mustang supposed to nearly bolt in, another option.
Wow, I wish I would have looked at those. That looks like a better fit, with one exception, if you're running a Y block, you'll need to either have the outlet swapped to the drivers side, or run a crossover. Since I'm running a 289 and paid not only for a radiator that wont fit, but also the cost to swap the outlet, I feel like hitting myself on the head and saying, "I could have had a V8"... <sigh> Mustang radiator 1964-1966, notice the mounting brackets and the size...
I'd have to go back and look at the receipt but I am fairly certain this is the one I am running: http://www.championradiators.com/product/CC5456
So, my upholstery guy is a bit backed up. No problem, I've now been able to get started on the AC/heat/defrost and hopefully get all the interior items done before dropping the car off. This is one of the few jobs so far (knock on wood) that hasn't been that bad. But this is just the inside...
Before the radiators that were for 54-56's came out recently the guys in the 1952-59 Ford Group used these:http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDN-3-ROWS-...ash=item3f7c209f13:g:Tl4AAOSwq1JZEFfY&vxp=mtr The 6 cyl Mustangs had the lower hose on the drivers side like 1970 and later SBF's. To gain extra radiator clearance you can use the 1966-69 "short" water pump which has the passenger side lower hose. This tread is in our "sticky Faq" that explains things in detail,Scroll to post #5 https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/
Thanks Jeff for that explanation, I could not figure out why the Mustang radiators were used when there was an exact replacement available. Now I know the history.
Finishing up the heater and AC systems. It's always funny how things that should take 2 hours to complete often take 10 and things that should take 10 often take 2. I pray this all works, there has been a lot of praying and cursing these past few evenings... And as an end result I ended up with a 2 core generic radiator, we'll see what the jury says after a few hot days in 100ºF here in TX; the "1956 Fairlane" radiator was a complete bust; there was no way that could fit in this car with the added condenser...
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