hey all, I am starting a project and am pretty new to every aspect of it. I did some research before starting and found that this web site appears to be full of knowledgeable people and hope to utilize you all while I work my way through this. I don't have much of a background in engines and vehicles but have always found the idea of fixing up an old truck with my kids to be something we would really enjoy. I have a pretty basic understanding of engines, but don't consider myself to have the knowledge needed to compete this project. I plan on figuring stuff out as I go. I have a background in helicopter power trains and engines so some basic correlations are present there but turbine engines are not the same as what I will be working on. I do consider myself fairly handy and have started and competed home improvement projects without much understanding prior to doing so, so I consider myself as able to learn as I go. Enough of the background and onto the details of what I have going on. I recently picked up a 1955 Chevy 3600 from my wife's uncle. He "charged" me the cost of letting him come over and help and to give him some wheel time when it's complete. It was his daily driver in the 80s and has been sitting here and there since then. He did start it a few times a year up until about three years ago. I know from research that that year only came in V6, but it does have a V8 in it now so someone, not him, did upgrade the engine at some point but I don't know when and have no idea what size it is. I got it home a couple weeks ago and have been working at removing body parts so I can see what we are working with as far as the engine, frame and other aspects are concerned. So far I have the front clip, doors and gas tank removed and have plans to get the cab and bed off in the coming weeks. My plan is to do something inbetween a rat rod and a rebuild. I like the look of the rats but the body, from what I can tell, is in fairly good shape and don't want to chop it up too much since it already looks really cool. I want to stray from buying new parts for it as I'm on a budget. My hope is to "can" (short for cannibalize from my helicopter days) parts from other vehicles or junk yards as much as possible. It has drum brakes and no power steering so those upgrades are a necessity for me. I also want to lower it a bit, not slammed but lower to get the rat look so some different leaf springs I think are in order. I don't know what kind of donor vehicle I can look out for to get the things I want in the truck so ideas on that would be appreciated. It would be nice to get one donor vehicle for brakes power steering and the lower look all in one shot? I am open to utilizing axels and all one from one vehicle and swapping out the whole deal onto my frame. At this point i am hoping the engine will be fine after a rebuild and some new parts here and there. Hopefully in two weeks I will be ready to pull it and start on that. I am hoping to get something with lots of torque and that nice little idling roar. I understand the engines from this time frame are easily changed to just about anything you want. My main goal is to get it up and running for cruising around with the family. I hope to get the rust spots fixed up and am contemplating just throwing a clear coat over the top of the sanding as I like the look of a work in progress. Right now I am hoping for some suggestions on donor vehicles/parts (year make model) that I can look out for that will fit my frame. I am also looking for some help on identifying my engine so I know what I'm working with. I've done some research and bought one book related to the rebuild of 55-59 trucks. The books covers a lot of stuff so that will be very helpful. I am also wondering if most aftermarket stuff for the 3100 model will fit my 3600, as far as I can tell the only difference is the weight? Most of the stuff out there appears to be for the 3100s. Thanks for the help and I'm sure there will be many questions to follow in the coming months. Brandon
Don't use the word "rat" around here. We respect old cars and trucks, and don't like people wasting them as junk art projects. We do appreciate a car with patina, but please don't go making bugger welds and barbed wire on purpose. As for a guy working on his first project, I can only say keep it simple. Cutting something up a lot is not a good way to learn. It's just a route to a project that sits forever and then you lose interest.
Nice looking truck. Was there mice living up in the roof? Over the windshield? That will be difficult to fix. By the way, something that might cause some confusion with 1955 Chevy / GMC trucks is that there were two basic styles.....First Series, and Second Series. The First Series trucks were basically hold over 1954's, while the Second Series were the brand new for 1955 trucks. The Second Series was a mid-year introduction, similar in this way to 1964 1/2 Mustangs. Ditto on the word "rat".
Have fun with the new project. From the pics of your engine, it is probably a basic late 60's small block Chevy (the small cap points-type distributor and the valve cover style) with a Turbo 350 automatic trans (the mechanical kickdown linkage shown). Good thing is the SBC is so universal there are any amount of parts available and help is easy to find. Same with the trans. If you have the stock rearend, it likely has some pretty low gearing. So your engine will turn some higher rpms at freeway speed. A later model OD trans could help the rpms, or a rearend swap to get better gearing. Most of the parts for 3100 will work on your 3600, at least for body and some sheetmetal. Chassis is different longer wheelbase, suspension and the brakes/hubs are 8 lug vs 6 lug for 1/2 ton. That basic truck design was used from 55 (2nd series as mentioned) through 1959. 55-57 had single headlights, 58-59 had dual headlights, is the easy visual change.
The rat word isn't taken very well here. We do not build rat rods on this site. I doubt very much it had a V6 in it in 55. Possibly an inline six or a 265 V8. That may be the original engine although the shifter looks like something has been modified.
Point is taken on the three letter R word. I guess I have never heard the word Patina before but after looking it up this is what I was meaning when I used the R word. I have no intentions of busting the thing up and turning it into something it is not. The worn look is what I was referencing. Thanks for the replies
The front clip is off so I can more easily pull the engine and transmission. The seat and doors were removed so 1 I could remove the gas tank inside the cab and put it somewhere more safe and 2 make it easier to repair some of the rusted out spots that will need to be fixed. The cab and bed also have a few pretty bad rust spots that will need some attention and I was told that removing them would make it easier to facilitate this since the vehicle does not drive and I would like someone who knows what they are doing repair the rusted out spots, so I figured I could haul the parts to someone's shop instead of towing the whole vehicle. Is this not a good idea? If so please let me know, as I said never done this so I'm open to listening to how things are normally done.
My goal would be simple, clean, straight, respectable. All things that a rat is not. play hard, drive fast
Welcome aboard! Nice truck and a good project for the family. As a new member here you should do an intro and read the guidelines for the forum. On that engine..... there should be some casting numbers up front on a tab right in front of the head which may still be readable. This will tell you what it is if you wish to know. A good friend has one of these in his body shop and has replaced the doors, fenders, box, hood and cab corners for the owner. I think he buys his sheet metal from OPD???? Never the less he has spent some serious dough on new parts.
Just remember they come apart much easier than they go back together. Prior to taking off the front sheet metal you should have drilled an 1/8 inch hole through the hood hinges, and all the removable sheet metal parts. Upon reassembly you could have put the sheet metal back in the original location with an 1/8 alignment tool. This would have saved you hours of aggravation. Be careful how much money you pour in a long bed 3/4 ton truck.
Any pro replacing rusty rockers or cab corners is going to want the doors mounted so he can check the gaps.
The first series 55 Chevy trucks look like 47-54 Chevy trucks. Completely different. There were no v6 s in those trucks, they could be bought with an inline 6 or a v8. I don't know about power steering on a straight axle, but if it possible, someone here will know. If you run the original size steering wheel and not- too-wide front tires, you won't need power steering. I recommend upgrading to front disc brakes, power or not. You have a fair amount of rust repair ahead of you, hope you have a good mig or o/a set-up. Welcome and good luck. And as was stated, don't put a fortune into long bed 3/4 ton truck unless you are married to it. They don't sell for as much or as fast as short half tons. Big window is a bonus.
The reason I asked why you took it apart is your experience level. I took my first Chevy, a 51, apart in 1988. Some of it is in China, some of it may be on some trucks here in Alabama and the rest is still behind my Dad's barn. I do not want that to happen to you so that's why I posted.....To make you think about it. your truck.....It is what it is! It is a mid 50s 3/4 ton truck. Even with V8 power it will have a top speed of around 70 and that is screaming. Cruising speed or the speed it likes will be around 45-50 mph. Realistically....Model A speed. With that said 3/4 tons of that era are a blast. I miss my 63 250 daily. That truck is very similar to yours. It was one of the most fun vehicles I have owned. With a mildly souped up Y block....big 4 speed....dual Smithys....big 16inch skinny tires....It was a Man! That Joker would sing going through the gears. Now I live in a rural area of the country. So I had a place I could drive it. I had 4 lane hiways, rural roads and small town driving. It could do short bursts on the insterstate but long trips would need to be planned for more rural driving with lots of turn offs on two lane highways. Power steering....power brakes..not really needed on a stockish 3/4 ton with stock type tires and steering. Down shifting helps braking and being geared so low, the heavy duty drums take care of the rest. They steer well underway with stock skinny tires but it can be a chore sitting in a parking lot. You seem to be on a budget. The least expensive route is too fix what you have. To make this truck into a cruiser with power everything even with junkyard parts is expensive and it's still a 3/4 ton which adds even more cost and trouble. My advice is to fix it back stock (you may really like it)....maybe souped up a little or clean it up and sell it to get a vehicle that more fits your requirements. P.S. That truck is a Creme Puff! And with a big back window too......It's begging for a stockish restoration. (A little HAMB style engine tweaking is OK) By far the most value for it will be putting it back stock. it's just about all there. Originally it was Forrest or Juniper Green like most Chevy trucks of the era.
Sorry I cant stand it....that's such a great truck. I see it has an auto likely a 350 or 400 hydromatic. The engine could be any small block but I bet 327 or 350. Small block and auto.....I bet that thing is a blast from red light to red light.
Your truck is the task force or "second series" as some one else said. Advanced design was the earlier models.you have a large back window option. Chevy's came with 235 I-6 or 265 V8. GMC got quite a bit of Pontiac engine's. A 3600 is a 3/4 ton. Yours is pretty complete. Congratulations on the find. good luck and have fun with your build Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I got one of these and if you like the truck just keep it the way it is. I don't know if you want 6 lug style but yes 3100 sieries will adapt to that truck. If you can find those axles in your area. But if you keep it 8 lugs it good to. I'm sure you have a 4:56 ratio you can get a Dana60 rear end lower numbers like 3:54 - 4:11. Mostly if you find lower numbers are better for highway. I have. 3/4 ton. But I'm married to it because my grandpa had it and alot of stories to go with it. Power brakes on the drums work good enough. And if you have spit rims to get away from that you can get a trailer rims from etrailer that fit on these trucks. Anyways welcome to hamb. Alot of folks are here full of knowledge and guidance were here to help. But don't listen to negativity. Keep on a budget and ride on Sent from my Z981 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice,solid old truck. I believe that you might want to clean it up, fix brakes and steering as needed on it get it running and drive it some before you take it much farther apart. Problem is when you get one too far apart and start looking at how much it will cost to do what you would really like to do to it -well it never gets done.If you do what you have to to get it safe to drive it becomes a lot easier to drive a "work in progress".Good luck with your truck.
Nice truck! 3100 refers to smaller bed size. Only difference is brake hardware and suspension is heavier on yours. May be a good idea to pick up a shop Manual everything in it to repair/rebuild as they did when the truck was new. There is also an assembly manual if you start completely taking it apart and need a build back reference.
Torkwrench gave you the answer to that question. Buy yourself some books on Chevy trucks and read up. I highly recommend that you get the service and assembly manual for your truck. Sent from my SM-J700T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Very easy to pull it all apart, then realize when it's in a million pieces that you're in over your head. Better to break it down into small projects and do one thing at a time.
Good luck with this. All body parts are available. I have installed 4 wheel disc brakes on mine. The master cylinder is now on the firewall. Power steering involved relocating the steering box ahead of the axle and outside the frame. You can do it. I scrapped the 265 V8 because the starter bolts to the bell housing instead of the block. This limits you on transmission choices. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Welcome to the HAMB.....and good luck with your build as it looks to be a great start. Build a hot rod and not a "RAT" rod as we don't take to them on this site.
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