Hot Rods 53 Chevy gasser question

I have built cars from the 20's, 30's, 40's and 60's, never the 50's. I found a 53 Bel Air one owner car that has floor and trunk rust that I plan to replace with sheet metal and not the original style floor pans and want to build a low budget gasser. I have read about a spacer in the original front suspension to get it up in the air. Is it safe and how do you do it. Does anyone have pictures of how to do it?


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http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121652

is one from a quick google search

 

Big Jon's Corvette from the early sixties was a prime example of that. It had 4" blocks between the k member and the frame. I would assume some kind of modification was done to the pitman arm/ steering linkage . I read where his were oak blocks , I would use steel. Would be as safe as long as the correct steering geometry is used . probly safer than some of the straight axle jobs I have seen .

 

search here for thread here: 1953/1954 Chevy Gassers

 

4" I beam drilled to fit. Very easy to do and cheap. Drove just like normal at 80 mph+. I think all I did was adjust the drag link longer when it dropped down.

 

Or go all out and sit the rearend under the rear springs.

 

real safe looking right ?

 

I don't see a safety concern here. Maybe weld a plate on each end for lateral movement but that would be it. Can you do 4 or 5 inches without any modifications? I dont want to build a hiway cruiser, something to run around town is what I am looking for.

 

If only a Tri-Five was so easy. Tall springs and upper ball joint spaces either between the A-frame or the spindle it's self is scary and changes the geometry. Here it's just drop the assembly and all geometry stays the same. Beside, how much force is there on the lift blocks and u-bolts for a rear end verses a front end that has no torque to it ?

 

Lol, the I beam version above definitely does not look to safe. You pound on them enough, it will flex, then hopefully only skew one way or the other. Kinda like a lopsided I.


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Those I-beams are industrial steel. Maybe IF they were cut to length using an O/A cutting torch, and heat damaging the structure of the steel, it "might" be unsafe. I've seen them used before, but it looks "out-of-place" (JMO). When the nephew and I raised the 51 Chevrolet Business Coupe, we used 16 longer grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers, along with some 2 inch spacers to go between the frame and suspension crossmember. Then I side welded in an extra side support plate. Looked better than an I-beam; but I'm sure both methods were plenty strong. Still sorry I sold the 51 Bus Coupe a year ago.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Butch, any pictures of your 51?


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Butch I agree, they Structural steel, but with a
.188" web thickness and a sideways load, as built,they will in time fail. Now had he put some flange to flange gussets at the pick up points , that would be a different story.i wouldn't 'expect' it to fail at all. I also agree, it does look out of place, in my opinion I beam, h beam, channel iron, just does not belong on a hotrod.


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A friend did his 53 Chevy with spacers and drove for years with no issues.

 

1. Lifting it 4" with spacer blocks is safe. Any higher, and you will need to alter the pitman arm. Guys ran 4" blocks throughout the 60's and 70's without problems. My '49 Chevy you see in the link Squirrel provided was lifted 4".

 

Thanks squirrel for your post. It sounds like 4" is the most you can go without any suspension changes. I understand those who say to go straight axle but this is a low dollar build. I wish the body was nicer but it is not worth the resto expense to make it right and I want to build a fun car for me. I have lived here since 2008 and never seen a gasser. Does anyone have pictures of spacer lifts they have seen or done?

 

This car had 2" square tube spacers over the front suspension. You can't see them but you can see the grade 8 through bolts. I just wanted it up a bit for the 60's look, but I still wanted full suspension travel at the track. I just heated and bent the pitman arm and idler arm down a bit.

 

This project was put on the back burner for a while but it is back to the top now. It looks like 4in is the number to not have to change any steering geometry. Would you recommend the I beam, square tubing, or aluminum spacers?

 

^^^^^High5^^^^^ has photos of his setup, and that car is really blocked up. I'm not sure how much, but it's higher up that any other 49-54 Chevrolet I've seen. Seems he also has a swap bar up front too. His car's a 53 or 54, and he's also on ChevyTalk.Org, like a LOT of us are (just looked at his profile, his is a 54 with SEVEN inches lift!). At least those cars still have a somewhat soft ride, and not bouncy/harsh due to spring lift kits, or conversion to I-beam or straight axles. Now, I know some of those converted cars are not what I just described, but for the average guy, working under a tree or in the driveway..................................... PM High5; maybe he'll e-mail you some photos.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

I would use square tubing with sleeves in the holes and cap the ends.