Thanks a ton for looking here's some pics This is concerning a 48 Chevy Aerosedan w a 12volt conversion using the 6volt starter. Has never done this before... the starter keeps spinning after I let off the stomper until I disconnect the battery. Having a bit of a problem (a few but here's the one on deck now) the braided wires that go to my brushes have grounded and shorted out against the starter hosing on the inside. The copper contacts on the starter foot stomp sylinoid have welded together in the engaged position. I pried them apart. Happened twice and I cleaned and smoothed contacts and it did it again. Prior to this I painted the pieces of housing, nose cone and end plate. Just now I thought to bare metal the mating surfaces continuous to the bell housing face. I also replaced the brushes and that is all. I am scared shitless to run it again until someone has some input. On another note I've noticed that tons of images of starter brushes haven't got any kind of insulation on their braided copper leads so I hesitate to tape mine up. Do you think that my creating a continuous ground from end to end to bell housing will fix my problem? Best regards and do take care, Freezer' ps- all four braided wires are damaged in the same manner. ANY helpful comments much appreciated. fb
Can you see where the leads shorted to? There must be something which it is touching which is grounding out. It won't hurt to insulate the lead, but the lead has to remain fairly pliable.
you can use the spark plug wire heat sleeve insulation over the wires its made for high temps and non conductive .
36roadster A+ Sir! Problem solved and thank you all for your much needed input to get my old girl back on the road where we belong! The problem was the brushes' braided bare wires were left a tad too close to the starter housing after rebuild. There are four braided and bare brush wires- two are grounded with screws, two are hot and none are insulated. Protection from grounding out (arching) is strictly the routing of the leads. The two hots are connected by an insulated piece of wire which connects them together "after" the brushes. Route the hot braideds close to the central area of the housing at the expense of the negs as they don't matter as they are bolted to the end cover anyway. Be cool, fb ps- The brush holder pivot pins are insulated with a non-metalic cup that is pressed in with the pivot pins at the time of manufacture. -fb
Yes indeed and after 3 year work on the motor and some "wild" improvements, lol. I love this car. A link to build log if anyone wants to check it out. 43 pages I do believe and counting. In the process of going back to bias tires/stock wheels. Definitely. Be cool, freeze https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/feezerburns-build-log.916808/
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