Hot Rods A 40 Ford Coupe for Uncle Mike Build Thread

The model for the Carter pump is P 4070. You can see several versions at Summit racing. It says for either type fuel, and wont vapor lock. I'll let you know how it works once it is installed and running.

 

Looks like a good USA made pump. The reviews are good but one guy said it was as noisy as the red style pump I just replaced. I am looking forward to your review.

 

I have the Carter 4600 on my Hiboy, and it's been there for 4-5 years I guess, with no problem. AFAIK the only difference between my 4600 and the 4070 is the 4070 uses 1/4" NPT fittings and the 4600 uses 3/8".
My '40 coupe has a Holley red with about 7500 miles on the car.

 

Here are a few pictures of the K&N fuel pump install.

It is mounted on a piece of 1/2" thick rubber. It is a reinforced piece of rubber used on gate seals at Hydro Electric dams.

Once I had the primary pump installed I copied the wiring connections and duplicated them on the spare pump that I carry in the trunk. The hose ends are 5/16" aluminum , The caps were installed because the pumps have some fluid in them when shipped and I didn't want them leaking in the trunk.



I originally did not have the rubber bolted to the pump mounting bracket but the old pump was so noisy I installed it. It did not make much difference noise level of the red pump. This new K&N pump is so much quieter then the red pump I probably didn't need to leave the rubber mount in there.This new pump makes a low level sound almost like a slow cat purr......

A electrical connections were covered with shrink wrap.

The filter is located high in the suction line.

Here is a picture of the original pump install during construction. The pump mounted low but. is protected behind the pumpkin. The cross bar is bolted to the frame on to the same mounts used for the rear sway bar.

 

[QUOTE="The 39 guy, post: 12084641, member: 129206"Hi John! Are you finally back in the Northwest? Still no time for a detailed report...but I will.

Got back May 26th. Wanted to make Chelan show but too much going on. Your car looks great; glad you got it sorted out.

 

39Guy, if you want to make your book available to the masses (free), you can convert your file to a PDF then upload it to Google Drive, <25GB total on your account. You can then get a shareable link to post here. PM me if you want more info.

 

Thanks coast40! If I get 10 requests or just do it's for the book I'll PM you for details.

 

Thanks for this wonderful thread. It has covered a lot of questions I had as I am getting into my first 40 ford, bought a couple weeks ago. Its 75% complete, just need to take it to the finish line. Pulling the fenders for painting today, and was looking for any experienced tips on removal and re installation. Your posts were very helpful. Growing up, my father built several 37-40 fords but I wasn't smart enough to take notes! Thx again!

 

Thanks Ben! It is always good to hear that the thread has been useful.You are the second person today to comment on the usefulness of the threads content. Kind of brightens my day!

 

Just incredible work and so inspiring, you have documented everything awesomely. Best to you man~!

 

Looking good, don't forget to 1/8 drill before tacking apart.

 

Thank you chevvy54man,that makes three in one day!

What are you talking about FOURTYDLX?

 

Once you fit fenders,doors, drill 1/8 holes for relocation after painting ,helps putting back together.

 

Oh now I get it. Yes we have tried that on some projects. Sometimes it works but not always. It amazing how much a few mills of paint makes on the fitment of the body panels.

 

I just read your build thread from beginning to end. You have a beautiful car and you have done a fantastic job, particularly with the little details. Enjoy all your hours of hard work.

 

But at least it is a starting point.

 

Thank you j-jock! You sure marked a lot likes as you read the thread. The car has been on the road for two years as of this weekend. It has been a lot of fun to drive and show. Despite all of my careful planning and attempts at bullet proofing the car it has still had it's fair share of problems. I do intend to update the thread sometime this winter and will try to cover the problems and fixes as best I can.

The drill the hole through the hinge once you are satisfied with panel or usually door fitment seems to work best when used on a car that is already painted, and you are just removing a door for maintenance and want to put it right back on without disturbing the paint. It seems each time I have done it on a door that is taken off for painting that it requires some serious tweeking when bolted back on. This makes the hole only a guide or starting point for alignment during reassembly.

 

Here is an update. Not all trips go as planned. I was cruising along about 65 miles an hour last July in the middle lane just 2 miles short of summit Snoqualmie Pass in Washington State on my way home from a Goodguys show.

All of the sudden I heard this terrible metal on metal sound. So I quickly made it to the narrow shoulder of the road and proceeded to assess the the situation. All vitals on the motor check okay and the a quick look under the car showed no problems. So I tried moving forward again and the grinding noise was still there. So I fortunately decided to try out my Hagerty Insurance towing option. about an hour later the rollback picked me us up and the journey home began.

The car pulled up on the roll back with just a little noise. When rolling the car off the rollback it stopped moving at one point. So the driver pulled the car back on a little and then let it back down. It rolled easy at that point. When the car was rolled away from the tuck this bolt was laying on the ground.




At first we were not sure where it had come from but once we got the car home and up on blocks we found the problem.

The bolt was from the bolt on steering arm (drivers side). It had dropped out and was tumbled around inside the rotor causing all sorts of mayhem. The steering arm was still in it's bolted in position but when I gently grabbed on to it and pulled it down to the position it is in in this picture.it was clear where the problem was.


At first we thought that the damage to the rotor was just the superficial nicks made by the bolt as it rattled around inside the rotor. Later on we discovered that there was actually a .045 bulge in the brake surface and 3/8" crack.

So it looks like during the fabrication stage of the chassis while things were being fit and tested then removed for painting etc., I missed actually tightening this fastener correctly.


When I put the assembly back together this time I used red loctite compound271 and an internal lock washer along with sufficient torque and safety wire to make it and it's three companions very difficult to remove.



I feel very fortunate that the bolt did not fall out immediately as I may have chosen to drive the car at least another 40 miles to my brothers house before I gave it a closer inspection. That may have been disastrous for me and others on the road near me.

So my lesson learned and now shared with you is check and double check your fasteners during assembly and at least annually if you are putting miles on your car each year.

 

I am relieved to learn that you stopped when you had the first warning of the failure. A tow is a lot less expensive in the long run. I can't see your repair coming apart, ever.
Bob

 

Wow, scary! I'm glad you pulled off to the shoulder and stopped.
A similar situation happened in a friends 39 coupe. A brake caliper bolt worked its way all the way out, the caliper was then able to flip upwards/forwards and punched a hole in one of his Halibrands.

 

Thanks Bob, I agree it should not come apart unless it has to and then it will be darn hard to get that Loctitie to give up.

Years ago the day after I bought a 50 Chevrolet Street Rod from A Chevrolet dealership I was driving it at a very low rate of speed when an incorrect 5/16" low grade bolt dropped out of the caliper. The caliper swung on the remaining bolt when I applied the brakes to pull over and see what part had just fallen off. The left front wheel locked up, flat spotted the almost brand new tire before I could get it to turn right and off the road. A very scary situation. Of course the dealer said they safety check all cars before they put them up for sale...... That wasn't the only thing I found after inspecting the workmanship of the truck very closely after that. The wheel suffered a divot on the inside of the rim but was otherwise okay.

The dealership replaced the tire and paid for a realignment of the front end but offered no excuses or apologies nor did they cooperate with me on locating the proper bolt for the caliper.

 

Very good practice/habit to get into.
Since I built both of my current Hot Rods and am lucky enough to have a lift... every year come spring I do a complete inspection underneath and elsewhere to at least try and spot any potential problems or failures.

 

You seem also to be an expert at using locking wire. The only people I know that can tie wire like that are in the aviation industry.
Bob

 

Glad to hear you and the car stayed safe. My car has had to come home like that twice.

 

A lift is om my wish list. For the foreseeable future I have to make due with jacking the cars up and putting them on blocks.

j=jock I am certainly no expert on safety wire. I keep this drawing with my safety wire pliers and the sketch comes out of the tool box with the pliers each time I have to use them.

Hot Rod Magazine had a good article awhile back that covers the subject well enough for an amateur to understand the theory and do a simple project.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1003cct-how-to-safety-wire/#


The above is another good example for multiple bolts.



Not too many tools are required to do the task. The pliers and some wire will get you by. The drilling fixture is one thing I don't own and have never used but I am considering buying one.

40LUV That sure is a pretty coupe! Do you have a 3/4 view form the rear of that car off the rollback? I would like to add it to my album if you are willing to share . Like the tail lights too. I expect if I drive mine enough that it will catch a ride on the roll back again also.

Sam

 

Thank you for sharing your incident with losing a bolt. The bolt falling out and fouling things up is a relief vs them silently falling out. Good detail on safety wiring and a safety wire looks good when it is done properly. The FAA Aircraft Maintenance std AC43.13 has good information on safety wiring methods. Page 376 or 7-311.
Here is a link to the FAA's free on line copy.
https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC43.13-1b.pdf
Aircraft Spruce And Wicks Aircraft sell the tools, steel and SS wire with a vast selection of AN drilled bolts. Not sure where AN bolts fall on the scale compared to automotive bolts so that would be a point to clarify before using them.

 

Thanks for the link to the PDF. Anyone that is building moving equipment that has critical parts, can learn on the proper methods of securing bolts. Aircraft bolts are tough, but even they can fail. Here is my story on a failed bolt.
While landing after a one hour flight from another airport, when I put the tail down, I was greeted with a noise that made me wonder if I had been shot down. It was a dirt strip, so I got out to have a look to find that my tail wheel was missing!
I had nightmares thinking that my tail wheel had crashed through some poor victim's roof. Two weeks later, I got a call from the Ministry of Transport stating that they had my wheel, and weren't going to return it until they had examined it to determine the reason it failed.
I finally got my wheel back, with the failed bolt and the analysis. It was a 5/8 shank bolt that had failed at the beginning of the threaded portion, leading me to believe that it had been over torqued at some point, the aircraft was built in 1947, and then slowly continued cracking until it finally snapped.
My point here, is that we need to carefully monitor our suspension parts after a build or an upgrade.
Bob

 

Great link Patterg2003! I hope to copy and past the whole chapter to my files.

Point taken Bob, But like your tail wheel,you probably checked to make sure the bolt was tight over the years but unless you took it off the plane and did some sort of magnaflux test you would not of known it was cracked and failing. Those are the unknowns that make me wince when I hit deep pothole or run over someone else's bolt on the road.

 

The manual that was referred to often while building an airplane. Just to clarify that aircraft manual recommends steel and not to use stainless or alloys for safety wire.
A good job keeping information growing in your thread. I bought the Street Rodder book on how to build a 40 Ford but there is honestly a lot more valuable information in this thread. The Street Rodder book starts with a Carpenter reproduction body which is good but your in depth detail & commentary on rebuilding and repairing a 40 Ford body as you have done is priceless.
I think there would be some interest if there is ever get a point where you would like to sell your build information. Some days the information available for a 40 Ford is underwhelming and the HAMB has been a good source. I know what it takes in time and especially the continuing commitment to assemble and detail information as you have. Thank you again Sam.

 

Thanks for update, Glade no disasters happened.