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Projects '29 Tudor build update

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by TBonez, Sep 14, 2016.

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  1. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    • image.jpeg It's been almost A year since my last update. The building is starting to pick up steam so here's a few pics of the progress so far. The frame is powder coated, brake lines are run and plumbed, the suspension is hung front and rear. Stainless 2 1/2 " exhaust tucked up tight. Had a couple items plated to break things up. Decided to go with nickel because it's not as bright as chrome but still looks good. Just waiting on the new motor because the old 327 I had set aside turned out to be nothing more than a boat anchor. Going with the crate 350 dressed up to look more like a traditional build. Offenhauser intake with three deuces, and a
    • Powermaster PowerGEN alternator. Still got a long way to go but movin forward. More pix as shit happens

    • image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
  2. Looking good. Chrome is like jewelry on a beautiful woman; just a few nice pieces is best.
     
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  3. chop job
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 596

    chop job
    Member
    from Wisconsin
    1. WISCONSON HAMBERS

    Can't wait to see more. Nice work.
     
  4. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    FYI this is not my work. The build is being done by Steve Pattee of Pattee Ent. out of Modesto CA. I lack the time and skill to pull this off but have the vision. I'm not a daddy big bucks so thing progress when I can scrape the penny's together to move forward. It's been a long journey ( 5 years ) going to swap meets to get the real stuff instead of ordering shit made in China out of a catalog. Many thanx to Sam Strube ( samIyam ) for all the help and guidance on this project. Without his help this wouldn't have been possible. Much respect to you guys that do this.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2016

  5. looking good

    i see you are using a Gennie shifter... have one in my `28 Tudor and love it. my `30 coupe has a Lokar , it's alright but not as good in my opinion
     
  6. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    I went the Gennie so I could use my own shift knob, a purple glass doorknob that came out of my grandparents Victorian house built in the 20's /30's
     
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  7. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    image.jpeg Just got the word it's ready to come home so I can start doing my part. The 4 barrel manifold is temporary till we get the cam broke in. Easier than the untested three deuce set up it will run. Valve covers will also get swapped out for some vintage Cal Custom finned ones. Still a lot to do but moving forward
     
  8. Bajita
    Joined: Feb 7, 2014
    Posts: 51

    Bajita
    Member
    from Laredo

    Great job and clean work from that shop. Your 29 is sharp looking and the body preparation is awesome. Please post pictures of the progress as it gets done.
    Will it be full fendered?
     
  9. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    Nope ....... fenderless
     
  10. Very clean, great work.
    I'm off to hit the "watch thread" button.
     
  11. What a really nice build.
    Look forward to seeing the finished car.
     
  12. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    seems like for ever but finally got the '29 in my own garage to start doing whats needed to get it running. All the metal n chassis work was done by Steve Pattee at Pattee Enterprises out of Modesto. Nows my turn to take the next step. Im kinda new to this so Ill definitely be hitting this board for more info n help. Heres some pix as to where its at now. Long way to go yet but lookin forward to makin progress.
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. Rice n Beans Garage
    Joined: Dec 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,658

    Rice n Beans Garage
    Member

    Nice and detailed work..
     
  14. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    Update on the build. Got the new floors in and seat repositioned and bolted in. Did a rough moc-up of the fan shroud then a final in cardboard for a template. Shroud will be built using 16g aluminum. Bends on sides hug the radiator tight enough to allow me to put some plastic edge trim on so as not to have metal on metal on the radiator. The bends on the top and bottom butt up to radiator with enough clearance to use the same edge trim. The fan will mount from the inside with it sticking through about 1/4". This will make the whole unit 1 piece and can be slid into place from the top. Shroud will be mounted to radiator brackets in 4 corners with additional support from brackets I plan to have welded to the shell. shroud 1.jpg shroud 3.jpg shroud 2.jpg shroud w_ shell.jpg seat w_new floor.jpg


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  15. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    Aluminum shroud and fan in place. I mounted the fan from behind for a cleaner look with just a few modifications to the housing. Top is mounted to the shell and the bottom will be attached to the lower radiator tab and the shell to a fabed bracket. Planning to calk around fan to clean it up then spray it satin black. When all was done I ended up with 3/4" clearance between the fan n water pump bolts. Will post pix when finished. IMG_6095.jpg IMG_6096.jpg
     
  16. TBonez,
    Tell me about the brake pedal & m/c mount. Manufactured or home-made? What about the rod between them?

    Thanks!
     
  17. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    sorry for the repeat... as I have typed this before,
    the date of manufacture is stamped into the '28 - '29's firewall section of the gastank...
    about 6" from the left and about 1" above the flange.... think it's day / month / year...
     
  18. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    Brake peddle n master cylinder mounts home made. The rod will have to be custom done once the floor is in place to determine pedal travel


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  19. Bajita
    Joined: Feb 7, 2014
    Posts: 51

    Bajita
    Member
    from Laredo

    Tbonez, looking good. What will you use for the top roof insert? Will it be shopmade or a donor roof from a wagon or a ribbed roof from a toyota 4 runner. I have seen these and look as if they would work just fine. Keep up the good work in progress and keep the photos coming as well. Here in Laredo, Texas you need a roof and some a/c as its always Hot.
    Love those early A's.
     
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  20. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Mikie likes the fan shroud... thanks...gonna use some of that method...
     
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  21. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    No roof fill. Going to keep it old style, wood n chicken wire.


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  22. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    Here it is finished[​IMG]


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  23. kiteloop
    Joined: Sep 1, 2013
    Posts: 24

    kiteloop
    Member
    from chatel

    fantastic work,!!!!i love you front engine bracket ,is it a home maid!!!
     
  24. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    yes it is. I wanted a Hurst motor but the one I had only would allow for an electric fuel pump. Steve fabricated a new one and off set the ear on mount so I could use a mechinical fuel pump
     
  25. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    heres a better shot IMG_0875.PNG
     
    indestructableforce likes this.
  26. Looks good and certainly very clean. I like the wood kit too.
    The front edge of the cowl almost looks to overlap the frame, how did you set up that forward body mount?
     
  27. Bajita
    Joined: Feb 7, 2014
    Posts: 51

    Bajita
    Member
    from Laredo

    Awesome, good choice on the roof selection.
     
  28. TBonez
    Joined: Dec 21, 2004
    Posts: 283

    TBonez
    Member

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Here's some close ups. The sub frame sets right on the '32 rails, no blocking like a stock Model A. That may be why it overlaps up front. The '32 frame was built by Kiwi Konnections in Bakersfield that's pinched to accommodate the Mode A body's. It is a highboy, not channeled



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    30tudor likes this.

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