First of all, I'm newer here... but I absolutely love this place. Here is my pickup. I've been having trouble keeping the ignition working. Here's the story... When I first bought the truck it had points. I drove it around for a month until the points gave me trouble. I opted to switch to pertronix. Everything was cobbled. The starter wiring was all busted up and the ignition switch was bypassed and ran through a push button under the dash. I ran a new wire from the fuse box to power the new pertronix coil. Everything functioned fine for the rest of the year. Last winter we pulled the truck apart restored everything except the body. I did my best to repair all the wiring to factory,I wanted to be able to start it with a key. I bought a new starter harness,new horn relay, I added a 30 amp fuse to the new 10 gauge wire that gives power to the horn relay (it powers the whole system) and ran new wires to the amp meter (the terminals had melted through the black L shaped plastic connector)(probably should have raised more of a red flag to me then, but I thought I'd be ok). I also converted to an internally regulated alternator. The truck finally came together. Started fine, no smoke or any wiring related malfunctions. I only did little trips at first, no real long periods of driving. One day I drove home from work and then straight to the junk yard to drop off some scrap. After bullsh#tt#ng with the workers I started the truck and attempted to drive off. As I went to shift the truck made a loud pop noise and killed. It blew the 30 amp fuse. I towed it home. After some diagnosis we figured out that I had hook up the coil wiring as though I was still using points. For some reason I though the new harness wouldn't have a resistor wire. My mistake, I ordered a brand new billet ignitor 2 distributor, ignitor 2 coil, and matching wires. I didn't want to have problems again. This time I ran a 12 gauge wire with a 10 amp fuse to the coil. Everything worked great. I took a few short runs with no problems until I took a 40 minute drive to Savanna, IL. Same thing happened. Poof. It blew both fuses: the one powering the whole truck and the one going to the coil. I'm not sure what I should do next... I just had the alternator tested. It checked out fine. Thinking of running a points distributor next(with the resistor wire of course) and seeing if the problem keeps happening. Has anyone had this problem? Maybe that amp gauge is faulty? Or could it be something in my ignition switch? There had to be a reason that they were not using it before... Thanks in advance! Sent from my SM-G900R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Amp gauges can leave you stranded. If you are popping a fuse, there is a dead short to ground. Find out what is common to both fuses and start chasing it from there.
I forgot to mention that it burnt up my pertronix 2. I replaced both fuses in the parking lot and it would crank but I had no spark. Sent from my SM-G900R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
One of the reconnected components is causing lots of problems, and it probably is getting really hot before the fuses pops. Check for something getting hot
I would rather go that route, but there is no room and my engine compartment is finished out rather nicely to go beating it in with a hammer. Sent from my SM-G900R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I am running an S10 V6 mini HEI that is essentially the same size as a stock I6 HEI unit. I added a Pertronix flame thrower 0.6 ohm coil and it has run great for thousands of miles over the last 5 years.
Still running the bypass wire from the starter to the coil? Don't need it with an electronic ignition. May be a break in the wire or something failing in the starter?
I have the wire from the starter disconnected. The wire to the coil comes right off the fuse block. Sent from my SM-G900R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'd ditch the factory wiring and start over with a new harness and fuse block. Then drop an HEI in it and never have ignition issues again. Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
They make the mini HEI distributors that use an external coil cost about $125.00 Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ditch the amp gauge and use a volt meter. A good points dist. and a an extra set in the glove box will run forever. Finding replacement pertonix parts on the weekend can be tough. Mini HEI if you don't have room for a full size one.
I'm pretty sure, more than reasonably certain that the blowing fuses, especially for the entire truck are more of a problem.
I never had a luck with the pertronix in my 409, went to a HEI. If I recall don't they make a small HEI for those for those tight spots, but maybe I just dreamed about it.
They make a small one, just used on on a 327 Tri-power setup. Worked great. Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ok, so I should leave the resistor wire? I have the ignitor 2 and the 0.6 ohm coil. They are sending me a new ignitor 2 module through warranty. I'd really like to get this mess sorted because I don't want to ruin another module. Sent from my SM-G900R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes leave the resister wire . I have a ignitor 1 that is 20 years old with a bunch of miles the distributor side voltage is between 6.5 at idle to 8.5 at 2000 rpm I'd say you don't want to see over 9 volts
They told me over the phone to keep it wired to straight 12 v. They said the ignitor 2 can handle uo to 16v? Sent from my SM-G900R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
How many Amps is your gauge designed for? With that alternators output I'm guessing you are wreaking havoc to the gauge.
It is the stock gauge, so not much... a factory generator doesn't put out much. Sent from my SM-G900R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm going to unplug the gauge and run points for a bit to see what happens. Sent from my SM-G900R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm also going to switch to a different ignition switch out of a parts truck. The switch I've been using is not original, it says made in mexico on the back. Sent from my SM-G900R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
They told me the same thing about 12v and not running the ballast resistor. I kept it anyway and its been perfect for 5 yrs. good luck...
As south cross suggested replace the AMP gage with a voltmeter, I have the basic petronix distributor (looks stock) from Summit that required the use of a 1.5 ohm coil. no resister required and GOOD wiring. I would suggest you use the instruction from petronics just to be sure, they are the "Experts" I stopped usng an AMP gage in my Hot rods back in the 70'S Hope you solve your issues.
I believe that's correct. One of the checks you should make is the measured voltage at the battery posts while engine is at a fast idle, with all the lights, accessories, and heater blower running. This places the alternator under load. Voltage should be somewhere between 13.8 and 14.3 depending on battery charge, and the temperature. Check for loose or corroded grounds and connections, including the alternator to engine block, that the brackets are tight. Regulators need to be at the same ground potential. Beware paint or corrosion interfering with good electrical connections. Perform a charging circuit resistance test. This sounds complicated but it isn't. With everything spooled up just like in the voltage check, place a voltmeter probe on the positive + connection at the alternator, and the other end on the positive + connection of the battery post. Voltage should be less than 0.2 volts or thereabouts. Also check the negative side, from battery post to alternator case. These tests will sniff out bad grounds and connections. What you want to look at is the current that flows through the ignitor. They don't care too much about voltage above 12 volts but they will get smoked by excessive current. Measure the resistance in the primary circuit of the coil, and the entire wiring circuit as well. Divide the battery voltage by the primary resistance and you'll know the amperage. Pertronix sez no more than 8 amperes.
"I also converted to an internationally regulated alternator." I don't know what an internationally regulated alternator is. I'll assume it's an auto correct for internally regulated alternator. As far as I recall, the lowest output internally regulated alternators were rated at 60 amp. The higher current use of vehicles prompted the change from ammeters to volt meters. The 30 amp fuse doesn't stand a chance. Best to connect the alternator directly to the battery with at least 8 gauge wire through a 60 or 80 amp maxi fuse.
I have my alternator grounded to the core support. I'm going to ground it to the engine now that you've said that. I don't know if I'm capable of performing all these tests myself! I start to get dizzy about half way through reading! Thank you for the advice.
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