Technical ***June 2017 Banger Meet - 4 Pistons and 4 Million Mosquitos***

Hope this is the right place to ask this as I am new to banger engines
I am rebuilding a model B engine and I am putting on a high compression head along with an intake and carb what I'm wondering is will the stock model B distributer work as is or do you need new weights and springs I'm running the stock model B cam for now

 

I ran a stock B distributor for a long time on a hopped up B and I was very happy with it. I switched to an FSI distributor to get away from the maintenance of running points .

I don't see a need to change the B distributor for the set up you are running. Justr make sure it isn't worn out.

.

 

Replacing Valve Springs

I need to replace a couple valve springs in my Model A engine with Lion head.

When I compress the valve spring, the valve also raises into the head because the split keepers are wedged tightly in the spring retainers.

With the head removed I normally just "pop" the valve from the top of the block to break things free. I this case, I'd rather not remove the head to replace the springs. I'm hesitant to hit the valve stem/retainer from inside the valve chamber for fear of bending a valve stem.

Surely there must be some "tricks". Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

 

I run a B distributor with the timing kit (no longer available last I checked) from FS It will give around 36 degrees advance and its all in at about 2000, springs are .020 wire with different weights.

 

Stick a rope down the spark plug hole to fill the gap.

 

I don't think that will work as the Lion spark plugs are on the driver's side and the chamber over the valves is really shallow.

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Make an adapter from an old spark plug and put 80 pounds of air in the cylinder you are working. I always tell people not to bash the center out of the plug. Cut the crimp and just push the porcelain out in one piece.

 

Saw this engine at the dirt drags and I cannot remember the details. Rare and built in the 30's. Has a reversed camshaft with a different firing order. Does anyone know about it? Long weekend and it is hard to remember all the details. It was just about the fastest banger there.


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Notice the front Winfield is getting cooler air, that must be a speed secret. Bob

 

Thanks for the info guys I will try this one out once I get my block back from having babbit poured and crank fitted
Should I buy a rebuilt oil pump or is cleaning and rebuilding the original the way to go

 

Both air and rope will work well. If the chamber is small over the valve simply back the engine off TDC to allow room and bring back up to make the rope interfere with the valve's movement. Not rocket science
Just go slow and be careful

I must have a dozen+ plus valve spring compressors all old an all different. some times I use a V-8 bar.

Question is:
Why are you changing just two springs?
Why not remove the head?

 

Good Point Bluto:

two of the springs look "funky", but if I replace any, I ought to replace all.
I would prefer to avoid the extra work of scraping the head gasket and cleaning the block and head surfaces if I can.
Phred

 

You can get the gasket crud off with:

http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797899325441

Follow the directions IT IS NASTY!!

Then a thin coat of HYLOMAR to all mating surfaces including both sides of gasket

http://hylomar.com

It's non-drying and REALLY WORKS! We ustta use it on Hewland transaxles They have no gaskets and the stuff would seal without gluing the parts together. When I first started it came in large yellow tubes with ROLLS ROYCE on it

It is now sold by Permatexin the US in small expensive tubes.

 

HYLOMAR ............... used it when drag racing . very good stuff

 

Mr. Fox, question, when you built your dual distributer set up for the Plymouth, did you set the distributers at full advance, or could you advance and retard them? I recall that you mentioned that the one was set about 1/2 degree behind the other to maximize the flame front during ignition?

 

The Bosch distributors used on my Plymouth had the full mechanical advance in them. All I ever did to them was fool with the springs. The distributor that fired the plugs centered over the cylinder, was about 1/2 degree behind the other. If for some reason, the plug in the conventional location didn't fire the mixture,I hoped the second one would. No I never detected any detonation with this set up.

 

Thank you. How did you set up the drive, did you turn them both the same direction? Are you using the Bosch "bug" distributers? Been mulling this over, and you are the only person I know who has ever built and run one successfully.

 

Yes they turn in the same direction, The distributor on he right side is directly driven by the normal shaft and there is an gear on the shaft in the aluminum box. It drives an idler gear which drives another gear on the left side distributor. I think I used 1 inch or 1/12 diameter gears on the distributors and a 2 or 2 1/2 for the idler. I put the two distributors as close together as I could and mounted the idler between them and offset to the front. That was easier than doing the math and buying correct pitch gears. I used the stock Bosch bushings in the distributor housings and ball bearings on the bottom. Mine came from 2000cc Pintos. But they are almost the same as air cooled VW. Ford style are flat on the bottom and easier to mount. Also I didn't need to consider the trailing lobe on many VW point cams. Generally speaking I really liked this dual distributor deal. Cheap and not hard to make. I never had any failures of any kind with it. And the engine never seemed to miss a beat with it.

 

For those wondering what we are talking about. The twin distributor drive and a comparison of the Bosh Pinto, flat bottom distributor. Modified for a Plymouth engine. And a Bosh VW distributor modified for a Dodge Bros. It has the gear on it.

 

Mr. Bisquit, SOME VW distributors have the number three cam lobe offset because that cylinder overheated. I think I remember it being 3 degrees off. I believe that is what Rich is referring to.

 

I recall all the VW type 1-4 had #3 retarded, even the 009 Bosch dist.
That was a long time ago, could be cloudy recollection.........
I don't recall the Porsche 356 or 912 having that issue.

 

I got a distributor cam from "GMC Bubba" here on the HAMB. It is one that is not retarded on one lobe. That is the pictured VW dist. that I modified or my Dodge Bros.

 

Rich, they are heat challenged, not retarded. The 3 degrees would be easy to find on a distributor machine.

 

Easy to find. Hard to fix. You need the correct distributor cam. That's why i like Pinto better. Same points, cap, rotor and all. For the PB block you need to hone the main bearing bores a little to fit the Allis bearings. No big deal. I used lifters from an International Red Diamond engine which fit great and had cups for the pushrods. The Dodge Bros. uses very much the same lifters. But the local 'binder dealer has closed. And it was turning out to be a pain to get lifters for the Dodge. So I replaced the adjusters with Allen bolts of the same size. And used a ball end mill to radius the hex end to fit the pushrods.

 

This is from a couple month ago. that stuff is like $177 for a 16oz can. getting cost prohibitive anything I can get in smaller quantity?

 

what is the name of the stuff ? I may have a use for something like that ........ steve

 

The Devcon Sales Rep ustta give me stuff try. They we're interested in feedback on their products and my projects. All it took was owning an American car built in 1897 I drove a lot.
I guess my endorsement and imput was valuable to them.

Try talking to a local Sales Rep. Tell them your project and ask about their product applications
You might get some help too.

 

right place , right time . plus you are good advertising

 

thank you. did not know about the 2.0L ford using the same cap/body as the bug.

 

Have you considered the kiwi quick change??