I have 2 of these that I found in an old box. Neither one works. Anybody have tips to make them work, or is there a way to cut it open safely, if even for a one time use?
Just stab it with a good knife...then your assistants/survivors can scrape it off your face and spread it on whatever needs a reliable gasket. Good lord, man, do you really want to try out 1970's goo on your car??!?
That's actually late 90s goo, and used in the right places works well. It's really popular with motorcycle guys. Myself, I prefer Yamabond but that works best on machined surfaces, not so hot if one or both are cast. TRS will do cast... Both have a limited shelf life after first use (probably their major disadvantage), so throw the cans away....
I'd set it on a fence post and shoot a hole in it from about 50 feet back. should put on quite a show.
Did my dad convince you to try this? He saves teabags for a second go. He was also too cheap to buy a circular saw when I was growing up, used to rip plywood with a hand saw. (Kidding, I would probably try it too. Nice truck) Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
This type of stuff stays fluid but viscus in the can then will set up after it's exposed. You have a solid plug of the shmoo inside the valve area. So you have a plugged valve/vent and the contents still under pressure, just like a "resting" volcano has a plug of hardened lava. If you make a new vent somewhere, you're bound to have an eruption. It's a crap shoot if that eruption is going to be a slow ooze like the Hawaii type volcano, or if it will be Mt. St. Helens all over again. If you're a gambling man, run a sheet metal screw in the side near the bottom and back it out partially, slowly and carefully until you get something. Let the screw be your new valve. I assume no responsibility or liability for the consequences.
With the can sitting upright on the bench all the propellant gas will be at the top. What I do is use a small nail or an awl out at the rim of the can (cover with a big rag if you're nervous or wearing a tux) Tap the nail with a hammer until you have a small hole and the gas will escape slowly around the nail. Then remove the rag and the nail and cut the rim off the joint of the top and sides with a sharp pair of aviation snips. The contents of the can will then be available for use.... one time only. There's no getting the Jeanie back in the bottle.
I use a cordless drill and a 1/16th bit and pierce the can on the opposite side of the seam ( do not do it near it or it will unzipper it and make a mess ...then cut the top off with a oil filter tool , and make sure you have everything you need to seal laid out as you have about 10 minutes to set it up . the goo or shmoo stays liquid because of the propellent . I use the old analog sealers ( in the squeeze tube ) that stuff will cause problems with me as I like cheeze wiz ... and that stuff I know tastes like yeach .... specially on a ritz and I hate to see what the sealer tastes like ...
I do have a lot of Dutch blood, so nobody should be surprised. I had several of these, most of them were fine, and used them with good results.
This is hysterical stuff. I'm the brokest guy I know, but geez, you cheap bastards, buy some new shit. This ain't Mad Max , and that ain't a gallon of gas.
What i have done before is take a drill bit and drill down in the tip by hand carefully and keep pulling up every now and then tell you get the tip clean a little brake clean helps loosen the stuff up also if you can't get it that way throw it away and buy a new tube that uses a caulk gun thats the only way to go The right stuff is the best on the market always use it for everything Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
My caveat is not about getting the shit out, it's about using it. Right Stuff is about the fiercest gripping, strongest bonding sealer ever marketed and I know several professional engine builders who refuse to use it anymore because you damn near have to wreck the parts you have sealed together with this stuff if you need to later take it apart. You better have some long thin, sharp, but strong blades to cut in between parts before trying to separate. As an example: getting an aluminum intake manifold off an sbc that has been sealed on with Right Stuff requires using a sharp blade to cut thru the bond at front and rear plus all that you can cut loose on the sides. Try to get a manifold off by prybar and I guarantee you'll destroy the manifold before you get it off.
You could use one of those Acme can openers, comes with a pair of roller skates and a blow torch. Wiley Coyote got some good results with one.
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