Has anyone in the group used this tool for purging air from brake lines? If so, any tips? Were you satisfied? Thanks much!
had one used it at the shop , should have never sold it its handy , definately read the included instructions and do not go bonkers pumping it up as low pressure works just as good or better than high pressure and if a bleeder comes out its easier to put it back in and also if your using bleeder lines they are less to come off . BIG thing to remember when your done with it for more than a day , empty it , as air moisture will contaminate fluid way faster than a open bottle as your pumping it in and theres lots more surface area , and try to buy your fluid in bulk ( 1-3 gallon containers ) if you plan to use it a lot , if not , buy it in quarts . and do not mix D.O.T. numbers , if you use DOT3 only use DOT 3 . as trying to clean it is not easy and do not use brake clean on it ... ( unless they changed the plastic formula ) I had one get ruined when they used clorinated brake cleaner on it, trying to change fluids and it dried and checked the plastic and blew out when pressure was applied . once you use it your gonna say I should have bought one sooner ... it will pay for itself real quick in convenience ( when I bought mine I did 4 complete flushes in 4 hours , that would have been 8 hours with 2 people normally ) and use a sharpie to mark it with your name as it will try to grow legs .. and mark the adapters with a carbide scribe or vibrawriter .
I've got one i tried to sell at the last big swap meet i went too. Just like pic posted by "brigrat".....I didn't (don't) like mine.........to me, with all the widget, its like getting out a 12 foot step ladder to change the oil in your rod........ To be fair, I was using the aluminum plate (red in pic above) on aftermarket Corvette style master cylinder and couldn't get it to seal. Kit comes with some small chains, j-nuts, and wing nuts to strap it on and tighten for seal. The aluminum plate has a rubber gasket so you would think it would seal easily........not so with mine. And it also comes with some other adapters for "fruit jar" type MC's but i have not used any of those. I have actually had more success with "speed-bleeders" but getting the right size and thread can be a challenge.
I just picked up a vacuum type from HF that uses compressed air, hoping that will work well. No need for master cylinder adapters and should be less chance of a mess.
Works well if done properly. Don't loan it out. Over tightening of the chains will warp the plastic top. Add a 3/16 plate to the top of the plastic top. Use a big clamp it will seal. Did I mention not to loan it out.. low pressure per instructions. Mine was a give me because it was loaned out and warped.
I have one, workd good for flushing or initial fill of new system, can be a pain in the azz to seal at M/C sometimes Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
The key to spousal harmony and bliss! "Okay Try it again! Stop! Okay!! Stop!" I like the "speed bleeders" because only a length of hose is needed on the bleeder, to purge into a bottle, and it's a one person job. With drum brakes, run the adjusters all the way up tight so the shoes are tight against the drum, and then bleed. This fills the cylinder with fluid or does a better job purging bubbles or something. Then close the bleeder, and depress the pedal several times to center the shoes and the fiddly bits. Then back off the adjusters till a light drag is felt when turning the wheel. The self-adjusters will not self-adjust if the initial adjustment is not done manually. A free turning wheel, there is nothing for the shoes to grab on to, to self-adjust with down the road, as the shoes wear. Hope this makes sense.
speed bleeders or speed leakers we call them in the trade are a good idea when used properly , but...... what often happens is the Gorilla , I mean owners or part time wrenches ( who do not read the tightening instructions ) , often strip tighten them ( tighten till they strip then back off 1/2 turn ) or they deform internally /externally and leak or cause a air suction problem ( sucks air on pedal return but not leak on pressure stroke ( threads not sealing ) which is a quite common problem we see with them ) or snap them off because they are thinner and made from aluminum or brass or steel with a brass insert , . the brass ones I love as when they snap in half they are easy to drill out and remove ... self adjusters once set up are supposed to do there job when you back up and apply the brakes or use the emergency brake , but according to murphys law anything that supposed to "self" will not ... ( ask any GM owner with 13" drum brakes and they will tell you , one of the largest fails on state inspections of heavy pickups )
Still using the St. Chappel bottle & 2' of surgical tubing ... nothing has gone wrong with them in 35 years.
Haha.....i hear ya....i have racked open bleeders say on one side of the system (front/rear) and let it gravity fill keeping MC full.....takes awhile but works.....i tend to reach for the Mitey Vac most of the time Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I have been using a Gatoraide bottle and a piece of vacuum hose for several decades. Cheap enough to throw away when done.
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