I have a stock 1930 ford coupe . only change so far is 18 " wire wheels. it will run 45 or 50 MPH if you push it . looking for advice on adding more power for cruising , high comp head/ b carb / cam what works best ? engine is fresh and runs well . also considering change to " 32 " front brakes for better stopping . thanks for any info . STEVE
I would run one of the high compression cast iron heads the vendors sell. I am running a Model A police head but it has been on there before the others were available. B carb sounds good but remember to run a B manifold or hog out the A manifold. Cam is a pain to change so I think I would try the others first. Do you know what cam is in there now? I think Bill Stipe makes the best cams but I think he sold his business to someone else. Do you know what rear end ratio you have? Ask all of your questions again on fordbarn.com. I think I would go with the cast iron Model A drums and reworked backing plates from Randy Gross (714-292-8660 or email [email protected]). Check the archives on fordbarn for comments about the products he sells. Charlie Stephens
When playing with my stock engine years ago, I made changes one at a time to confirm their effectiveness. As far as "easy" bolt on changes, the most dramatic change for the dollar are (in my experience and opinion) are: 1) higher compression head 2) Aries muffler As Charlie S mentioned, good brakes would be equally important. Be careful..... one thing can lead to another and then.... Hope this helps
[QUOTE: it will run 45 or 50 MPH if you push it . High comp head/ b carb / cam what works best ? engine is fresh and runs well . also considering change to " 32 " front brakes for better stopping . thanks for any info . STEVE[/QUOTE] 45 or 50MPH does not equal "runs well". Only excuse would be low rear gears. My stocker As would squirt up to the mid sixties with 3.78s. I love the 12" brakes. A friend just did the change and everybody is happy. What's up with that thing? Fred A
Agree with Fred. Yours needs attention. The biggest thing I see people do wrong is not have the timing set correctly. Or maybe they did have it set right, but don't realize the rubbing block wears on the points, and the time retards itself gradually. Good luck.
thanks very much for the candid input , I,m going to do a complete tuneup and road test. mabey a gear change or over drive is all I really need .
You might want to consider replacing the carb if going for a high compression head. B carb or go downdraft with Stromberg or Weber.
Yes as mentioned you need more BTU input a Stromberg or Weber, 7:1 head 1.75 intakes would help and a little bigger cam and you can easily get 80 HP and if you bump the Weber to a 38-38 MM. a 100 HP. I have built several engines to this configuration and Dyno'ed them. My 31 Tudor will run 65 mph all day with 3:54 gears and up to 80 mph and with a wind to my back side I can peg the speed-o.
Been running bangers for years and you can get more power but a stock Model A motor doesn't like high RPM's. Stock rearend has a 3:78 gear and 50 - 55 mph is about all I'm comfortable running. Had several stock motors, a counterbalanced B with a Winfield head, Ansen manifold, a Holley 94 and a header . My pickup has an H&H inserted and counterbalanced A motor with a Bromfield high compression head and still a 55 mph truck. Assuming a 28" tall tire and stock 3:78 rearend you are turning 2722 rpm at 60 mph, 3000 rpm is spinning a stock motor fairly fast.
My Grandpa has a BW overdrive on his Model A. I was really surprised when I drove it. It gets it on at highway speeds. He also has a giant Mac horn blasting at others to get the hell out of the way! He was hard core in his day. It also has a police head, down draft carb, etc. However, I think the overdrive really helps.
Snyders sells a cast iron 6:1 high compression head (6:1-7.5:1 seems to be the sweet spot for street driven A's), an aluminum dual updraft intake with all the necessary linkage and down draft set ups at very good prices. Maybe replace the stock muffler with a more free flowing unit like a glasspack or an Aries. Hope that helps. Touring grind cams are available and work great as well but that requires getting into the motor and can get pricey. Best to have a machine shop tackle that for you. Good luck sir!
The first thing for a good engine is a high compression head. Get the NuRex timing strip so you can set the timing with a timing light. The timing bolt-in-a-hole-on-the-timing-gear is pathetic. Electronic ignition is good after the distributor is rebuilt and the oiler hole is added down the top of the dist shaft. Electronic ignition requires an alternator. Upgrade from the crappy intake/exhaust and ancient carburetors. No matter how fast your engine is, I will zoom away from you because I have a fully synchronized 3 speed with overdrive
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