1930s Era Champ Car - new project

In looking back on my photo postings in this build I see that many of them have the dreaded pussy message: "File not found - click for photos" which rarely works for me. I find it annoying to encounter these on other threads so I'm going back to re-post pics that have the pussy face. I may have a few out of sequence but at least there is a relevant pic there. Enjoy

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays

 

I did some more shaping on the tail section. Its almost ready to baptize in bondo. Attaching the mounting flanges comes next.

 

It's been a while....welcome back!

 

Thanks damnfingers - yeah, I know its been a while since I last posted. Other projects and tasks beckoned so this guy got put on a back burner. That, and I had to fight through a mental block of tackling this sheet metal work. I still have to work out the details of how to mount the body cockpit, seat, grille, had hood panels and decide on where to mount the fuel filler, roll bar, crash bars, shocks, etc. The engine has been sitting on the test stand waiting for me to degree in the cam that will be running on custom straight cut timing gears so it will have that "supercharger whine". So I'll keep chipping away - and try not to look at that "Attic Anglia" project in the corner.

 

Hi FTF.It ain`t always the fastest that wins the race.That sheet metal looks pretty good to me.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Here's another little visual delight - I punched some small 2 1/2" louvers in the rear valence panels to break up that expanse of nothingness sheet metal. They are purely decorative; no real function. I suppose I could make them into turn signals or tail lights if I ever street it.

 

In preparation for mounting the roll bar I made up two bar receivers that are to be welded to the frame, then gusseted. They are 3 inches tall and have holes drilled for two cross bolts. The opening is chamfered to aid installation. I will wrap the bar with shim stock when I weld the receivers so that the bar is perfectly centered and installation will then be easier and distortion from welding is minimized.. After they are finish welded I'll open the holes up by reaming them to 3/8 diameter and use grade 8 bolts.

 

Well, it looks as though I've worn out my welcome at photobucket, and now they want me to pay to post photos to a third party (e.g. HAMB). I'll be investigating other free hosting sites to transfer my extensive photo collection. Any suggestions?

 

In the bottom right of the reply box click on "More Options", then click on "upload a file" and just download direct from your computer. That's how I did this.

 

Hey 64 DODGE 440 Whaddyaknow! Thanks. That is easier than the photobucket dance I was doing. I learned something today.

 

Drove me nuts for a while too. Glad I could help.

 

Has alot to do with setup also but lots of air vs aluminum.

 

Think I'll pass on the wing for now. And cage.

 

Next time hit the post as FULL SIZED IMAGE button. Makes viewing them easier.

 

Thanks loudbang - I'll try that.

 

I made the final bar mounting pieces - the gussets that reinforce the mounting receptacles. Having been a part time welding instructor in a former life it takes me a long time to figure out the design of the welds and the weld sequence so everything works as designed. So for this exercise I will TIG the receiver tubes to the flat plate first. Then, with the roll bar inserted and shimmed as mentioned earlier I'll weld the topside of the tabs, then the underside of the tabs. Finally, the gussets get welded on lastly. because they will have a slight tendency to warp and splay the receptacles outward I built them with a skosch more than a 90 degree angle in them to minimize that effect. Also note that the mounting bolt holes are situated at a 45 degree angle to the body so the nuts do not contact the body panels with plenty of wrench clearance.
Finally I will add two rearward triangulating struts to the bar using 7/8" x .090" wall chrome moly tubing with some sort of attachment tab/clevis in double shear.
Above all else I want this car to be safe - able to take a hit that hopefully will never come.

 

Photos look GOOD.

 

I finish welded the bar receivers.

 

Today I am asking for help / advice on how to mount my shoulder harness. It almost seems like I will need some structure under the tail section. And I don't want to mount it to the roll bar, which is outside of the body. Today's sprint cars have tube a chassis that tie everything together and finding a secure place to mount the shoulder straps is relatively easy. And I also realize cars way-back-when had no shoulder harnesses so attachment was not a concern. I guess I will need some bolt-in tubes to hold it but still can't decide the best way to do this. Weld in tabs? A "unibody-like" seat back that integrates the mounts? Dunno?
Any suggestions?

 

I decided on two two-bolt tabs to hold an inner hoop structure made from 7/8" 4130 moly tubing to hold the shoulder harness. The seat back will cover it with a slot for the belts to pass thru.

 

I made the belt anchor plates. I also made this seat back. I need to put an access panel in it to get to the fuel cell, and also make a slot for the shoulder harness. Its always sumpthin'.

 

Hi FTF.Looking good sir.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Damn, still an awesome project!

Sent from my XT907 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

My friend and fellow six racer Steve Ambrose found this cam he knew I could use. Trouble is it is an old (circle track?? we think) cam and we don't have a cam spec card for it. Can anybody help fill in the blanks on the cam specifications. Here is what I know from the CRANE box lid info:

Part # 50 046
Grind # F-274-2
Ser # D-7044

We think those numbers tell us it is a solid lifter cam with 274 advertised degrees Intake duration and 284 degrees Exhaust duration. The lobe height mics at .275" [.440" @ 1.60 RAR; .481" @ 1.75 RAR].

If somebody can fill in the missing info on lash, lobe spacing, etc. I would be very grateful.

I was planning on putting a stock cam in this racer, but if this cam is what we think it is I will go with it. Any six cylinder part that has touched the hands of the great Steven Ambrose is bound to be fast.

Many thanks.

 

Well it turns out I cannot use a flat tappet cam in this build because I plan to use the non-adjustable stock shaft mounted rocker arms. I will probably just use a stock cam for now; maybe upgrade it later.

 

Why not adjustable pushrods?

 

Adjustable pushrods could be used, but I do not wish to go that direction because of the added money and time involved to do that. I have new non-adjustable valve train pieces on hand to go in the engine.

 

Here is a tube I had bent up that will be placed behind the seat back - with some bracing - that will anchor my shoulder harness.

 

Today there was time to make a preliminary pattern for the instrument panel. The lower edge will be scalloped for knee clearance

 

Transferred the wood pattern on to aluminum. Most cars of that era had minimal instrumentation, but I am going to put an array of street rod gages in it. I may end up licensing it at some point.