We have a 1950 lincoln that is basically all original. The wiring is in horrible condition, everything is still connected but the cloth insulation has long since disappeared. I'm going to just completely re wire everything instead of patching one system at a time and since I'm doing it I'm going to convert to 12v neg ground. Does anyone have an advice on which method I should use. Right now I'm leaning towards just doing custom wiring, basically a harness at a time so it can be really clean without any extra stuff to cut off and I can run it the way I want. Or I could go with one of the complete kits but their "universal" so I'm sure there will be a bunch of things I don't need. I'm comfortable doing either but I'm not sure if I'll save money with one. What have you guys done?
Do you want a modern fuse block in it, or would you rather have it with the original design? I think that's the biggest decider.
Depends on you ability also. Sometimes it's easier to just get a harness rather than trying to find/buy different colors/gauges. Don't think you save that much over buying a harness either. When I do one, if there are extra circuits that I'm not currently using, (electric windows,a/c, door locks, 3rd brake light etc.) I cap off and coil up these circuits and hide them behind upholstery in case myself or next guy wants to add things.
There is a company in RI, Naragansett Wire or something similar, that has been in business as long as I can remember. They make original "looking" harnesses for just about everything. I used them years ago for old Fords, military Jeeps and Dodge power Wagons. They use current fire resistant wire covered with original looking cloth covering and the correct wire ends for the application. I was always amazed at how complete and well done they were, the fit was as good or better than original. Very similar quality to Lebarron Bonney original upholstery. Try the net for info.
Planning on using a modern fuse block. I'm not worried about keeping it looking original as far as insulation. I'd rather keep everything minimal run it and wrap it all tights and keep everything clean and out of the way. I was actually thinking of using all black wire then using good quality colored heat shrink on all the connectors to identify stuff on both ends. I think that would have a cool look.
If you're not concerned about originality, I'd use the universal kit. I put a new "original" harness in my dads 50 Chevy. Modern wire with an original style cloth covering and it had all the correct terminals. I don't know if such a thing is available for your Lincoln but I'd check if I were you. I found thishttp://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/pdfs/Lincoln.pdf
Just put a rebel wiring harness in my 50 ford. Same thing as you the stock harness was toast. I had a few problems called there tech line and they were very helpful. Got me all straightened out. Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
1. If you decide to buy a harness pay attention to the fuse block they furnish and no old glass cartridges, only new ATO/ATC fuses. 2. If you decide to buy a harness, spend considerable time documenting your work as the stock wire diagram goes out the window when you purchase and what documentation they furnish will be inadequate/lost in a few years. 3. Get a few color heat shrink kits and a real heat gun. Mark both ends of the same wires with 1" color heat shrink, EVEN with a stock kit. 4. Even if you plan to convert to 12v, buy a 6v harness.
Y and Z Yesterday Parts is located in my home town and I worked with one of the owners years ago. They make high quality wiring looms and can make custom additions such as turn signal circuits if needed. All and all their stuff is top notch. On the other hand if you just want to use a universal kit and not be concerned about original looks, I used a Rebel Wiring universal kit when I rewired my '39 p/u and converted to 12 volts. They are US made and I had no issues with the install. I believe they are a vendor here on the HAMB.
I rewired my 37 with a couple of Painless kits last year. Went pretty smoothly. Tech support was good when I called with a couple of questions. I'd recommend them, and will buy from them again. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Either way I do it I'm going to get the wire gauge I would need for 6v just to have the heavier gauge. I already have everything to do wiring from other jobs I've done so if I were to do a custom harness I'd just need materials and the fuse block. Is there a gauge u guys think would work for almost everything? Because I could get the heavier gauge I'd need and use that for everything and keep everything consistent. I'd like to spend the money now and go overkill on the gauge and have peace of mind. I worry with a kit that I would get exactly "adequate" as far as wire gauge and connector quality. I'll check out some of the companies you guys have mentioned though. For the guys that used a kit, did you end up with a bunch of extra wires for options you didn't have? If you did can you completely remove the wires or is everything usually together and loom taped already? I know I could just loop and hide the extra stuff but I'd rather not have it at all.
Manyolcars, there are marine fuse panels that have the glass fuses in gang of 4,6,8 or whatever you need. Ebay has a load but also a boat supply store near you would accomplish your goal. I used Bob Drake factory style harnesses and a modern fuse block.
All one color wire is bad idea.I thought it cool when I saw a dune buggy wired with all red wire, but in my later years I've found that tracing a short is a pia with all one color.Even with a color code at each end, what do you do in the middle of the car with a bundle of say 6-7 black wires??!!
We all seem to have a little advice how to from our own personal point of view. Let me ask you a question. Other that the actual condition of the wire itself what was wrong with the electrical system? That answer alone would tell me what to do as for upgrades/replacement. If you are wanting to keep all stock switches, gauges, radio and blower motor I believe your making a very LARGE job out of something that can be just plug and play back as it was. I personally have bought many Factory replacement harnesses from www.riwire.com/Rhode Island Wiring and they are an Exact plug and Play unit. No head scratching, no loose crimps, no "Oh crap" I forgot that one. And all terminals fit the lugs. That in itself is Priceless!!! Just check out there web sight before you lay under the dash with your wire cutters. Just saying. The Wizzard
That is something to worry about. Both the OEM and aftermarket harness suppliers use 'adequate' wire sizing (and the latter sometimes not even that). If you use #14 as a minimum size, you'll only need larger wire in a few circuits; the headlights (#12), charging system (#10), battery to fuse panel (#10, but #8 would be better), panel to ignition switch (#10). This is assuming a 'stock' wiring load; adding electrical accessories like AC, electric fans, power windows and/or seats will require upsizing in places to keep voltage drop at acceptable values. I would not recommend one color or using one large size wire. Terminating extra-large wire at some devices will be difficult.
Ez wire wire harness are nice and easy to install cost like $150.00 can't really beat the price, trying to patch old wiring. It's hidden under dash no one will have the first idea it's not original. Plus functionality/ safety Trump's looks for me a lot of the time. Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Look into American Autowire. They make nice stuff. I've used them to rewire my 51 chevy. Very happy with their quality and simple, easy instructions.
My 1948 Lincoln has the same issue (cloth insulation failing) and since the car was converted to 12v there were literally bundles of black taped connections. I bought a Rebel kit because of the number of circuits I want, as well as converting the hydraulic power windows to electric motors. Haven't finished the wiring yet but it's not as frightening as patching things together.
Take the time to look over these wiring tables. Everything you need to know about selecting wire gauge is there. Sorry that I had to take pics in order to relay the info. American Wire Gauge (AWG) sizes may be determined by measuring the diameter of the bare wire. When choosing wire gauge, the distance the wire must run and the amperage it will need to carry must be determined first. Refer to the Wire Gauge Selection Table. Note that you can always use thicker wire ( lower gauge number) than is recommended. Using the Wire Gauge Selection Table - Find the amperes or watts the circuit is expected to carry on the left and the distance the wiring must run at the top - followthe columns until they intersect. For examl ple - a 12 volt circuit which is 15 feet long and carries 10 amperes should use at least 16 gauge wire. Hope this helps.
Sounds like you have a plan. If you could carefully mark and remove the old harness get a 4' X 8' sheet of plywood lay out the old harness set a nails at takeoff points. Note on the plywood what each takeoff is, Then remove old harness and lay out new harness . This will allow you to do most of the work standing up not laying on your back under the dash. Good luck sound like fun. Terry aka dirt t
Almost every wire is either just bare copper strands missing all the insulation or the insulation is broke open in many spots. Over the years as stuff needed to be replaced they would just splice wire in and tape it with cheap tape so there are sections of just rolled up sticky wire where the heat has broken the tape down. The few wires that were replaced weren't done right and aren't the correct gauge so I don't trust anything else that was replaced by him over time. I don't plan on keeping stock gauges, lights, or switches. I'm going to make a panel and fit it into the dash to replace the factory gauge panel. Thanks. I don't plan on trying to run just heavy gauge just because like you said if I need a certain connector size it won't work. For the majority of just the general wiring though I'd rather run a little heavier gauge, then heavier gauge when necessary. I don't plan ok running much but extra, no power seats or windows or anything like that but I will probably get some kind of a/c system later.
X2 on the Speedway kits. I used the 32 circuit on my 47 Lincoln in case I wanted to add items later on. If all you want is basic wiring, they have a less expensive kit for that, too. One thing I really liked about their kits, I'm sure others are probably the same way, is the wiring is clearly marked every few inches as to where it goes, really helpful if you are like me and partially color blind. I used SW gauges in the stock bezel, made up a custom harness myself for the lighting, the kit came with wires for the various sending units for electric gauges. Everything works like it should, I haven't had any wiring issues due to inadequate wire.
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