Okay has anyone used this setup? It's for mid to late 40's chevy passenger car, and if so is it a straight install or are you cutting the crap out of everything. I'm trying to figure out what I'm going to do booster with disks or just put 51 chevy drums on to get a better brake and 5x4 3/4 lug pattern.
ive used that setup on a 47 sedan with stock drums.fit and worked great.didnt use prop valve just 2 2 pound residuals
@wheeltramp brian whats the 2 2 pound residuals? Otherwise does it bolt in where the old master used to sit?
I have one of those in a 41 Chevy coupe. It was already fitted to the car when I bought it so can't comment on it as a replacement of the stock item but it bolts onto the top of the k member with four fixings. No evidence of carnage to install though. Biggest issue with it is that it puts the brake pedal in an impossible position, unless you have size 20 feet - mine max out at 12! I shortened the pedal by a good couple of inches but there was more than enough pedal ratio to accommodate this. I think I have a dual 8" booster and a 1.125" master and it stops great (MII front with GM calipers and 10 bolt rear brake, whatever size they are). Will be virtually impossible to run a driver side exhaust without dropping down under the frame. The master is right under the seat and I've not got access (ok, I could install an access panel). A wash bottle and mirror makes filling from underneath easy enough, but I wouldn't wish to try this without a garage lift / pit. Chris
Hey leadfootloon! The residuals are to keep the fluid from draining back from calipers back to the MC. When I first built mine I used a Ford Maverick swing pedal,booster, and MC. Later I switched to GM discs and calipers, 8in duel diaphragm booster and 1in Corvette MC. With the swing pedal you don't need the residuals. Either way was pretty easy install. Your parts are still hanging on the wall resting. No worries.
sorry mistype.i used two 10#residual valves as i was using the stock front drums and a 58 chev truck rear with stock drums to make it open driveline.i used the kit with the dual diaphram and was super easy pedal for the cust.also the drivrtrain was swapped to a 250" 6cyl and 700r4.so i dont know if it will interfere with clutch operations
I was going to mention the exhaust pipe problem. I used a manual brake set up and there wasn't much room. Maybe use one or more of those flexible connectors found on newer cars.
The exhaust is a bummer I picked up a new system last year at the swap. Hay @MMM1693 what was the swing pedal out of the second time? Or was it still the Maverick. the kit it over 200 and then I still need to figure out the front drums or disk kit upgrade. I won't go with M2 front-end the engine is being updated to a 235. I want my kids to drive it at some point so I will keep it tame. Anyway a swing pedal could be cheaper and keep the exhaust system easy would help.
Hold on! What side is the exhaust with a stock engine? I'm thinking passenger but could be wrong. My reference to exhaust difficulty was with a V8 fitted, but I don't know anything about the stock configuration. Wouldn't want you getting all bothered unnecessarily with misinformation!! Chris
OK, thanks. What I guess I should say is that with a small block and a th350 it's going to be a struggle to snake an exhaust past that braking system and stay within the confines of the chassis. And that's coming from someone who relishes snakey exhaust routing (but I only ever use 2.5" tube - pea shooters might be different)! Chris
if I HAD to have power brakes in one of these cars I would use a firewall mounted set up. Walton Fabrications makes one that utilizes the stock hole in the firewall in 49-52's. you can not check the fluid level or add fluid with these crazy things without going through a bunch of trouble. I had discs with no power assist on my last 49, they stop just as well, just a harder pedal.
'47s don't have that panel that the Walton swing pedal/master mounts to, so that's not an option. On my '47 Aerosedan the plan is to use a universal type swing pedal like is available from Kugal Komponents or even Wilwood. But I need a hydraulic clutch too and don't fancy having to crawl under the car with a mirror to check fluid level.
And fwiw, my '54 wagon is rolling with manual 4 wheel disc brakes with an under floor master. 350/350 car. I don't miss power brakes at all. And not having to creat a spot for the booster under there makes things a lot easier. This car stops great but I'd still like to move the master up to the firewall for covenience.
I don't mind having just the master but the hole single master isn't a real desire. My pop lost his brakes coming off the freeway on the way to back to the 50's I was a kid in the back seat. All l was worried about was if we were still going to the show! we sure did. After a hole after noon trying to find old parts. So what I'm saying is I want a dual master cylinder
Leadfootloon I'm still using the maverick. It sits pretty flat from the firewall back to the bottom edge of the dash. The assembly is a little short, so just made a bracket out of flat steel. Nothing a man of your talents can't handle. The Maverick/Mustang brake booster is small in diameter like 8in or so. I cant remember for sure the year of this stuff but I believe mid to late 70's Mustang 2/Maverick.
I feel the same way regarding the dual pot master. I think you know this, but just to clarify, you don't have to have a booster to have a dual master cylinder. A correct dual pot master works great with manual brakes (disc or drum) so long as the pedal ratio is correct. That's what's on my '54 -under floor, dual pot master, 4 wheel, manual, disc brakes. Chassis Engineering also makes a bracket that uses the stock pedals and mounts a dual master under the floor. They also make one for use with a clutch. Just another option. http://www.chassisengineeringinc.co...and-pedal-mount-assembly-for-1940-1948-chevy/
Or if you're a cheap bastard like many of us, do this: (a '47 will be very similar to do) https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-49-54-chevrolet-master-cylinder-upgrade.367041/
I have used the chassis engineering kit. I used the remote fill master. Mounted the remote fill on the firewall. I did not need the residual valves since the fill level was higher than all the bleeders.
Works well if going g auto, but we had to modify to keep ours manual Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That helps a lot I'm thinking of just going with the chassis engineering bracket now that I see there is one for clutch and brake pedal.
That's the one we used, worked pretty well, but the clutch parts still needed some loving. The biggest issue with it is exhaust routing, it gets snug with dual on an I6. Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have a new stock single exhaust that I will be running for now. Just want to cruise around don't need power brakes for that, but with all my kids the duel master is a must.
Don't be sorry. The kit I used is from chassis engineering and the owner passed away a few years ago and his daughter sold everything off to another company. If you search chassis engineering here on the hamb you will find the company she sold to. If I remember right they were going to keep making the parts. Hope this helps.
ECI Brakes makes a kit to add a '79 mustang manual disc/drum dual master to the stock pedals, no cross member mods, and you can keep the factory clutch pedal. I have it on my 47 coupe, no issues but the retaining tab for the clutch pedal is a little flimsy if you ask me, vs the factory set up, but 5000 miles and its been fine . They also sell a remote fill.
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