Hey fellas, First, how do I remove the crank pulley? I need to replace the Ubolts holding the springs. Also, will I be able to remove the u bolts once the pulley is gone? It seems that it's a really tight fit for them to come out. It seems like they will hit the block where the oil pan attaches. Thanks, George
Instead of removing the pulley, I'd rather take the front mount bolts out and jack the front of the engine up a bit. The U-bolts will tip to the side some once the nuts are off. Probably check the condition of the mount rubbers too, they may have flattened out as that looks closer than normal.
Install new motor mount biscuits, and I bet you could get the U bolts off without removing the pulley. If the pulley needs to come off for replacement, use a regular three leg puller like you would on any pulley. Is the radiator out of the way? It probably will need to be.
The pulley is bent so I have to replace it but I figured I'd do all this at once to make my lifer easier. The radiator is in, can it be don't without remove it? Stupid question but would this method work to remove the crank pulley?
That video's method pulling might have worked if your pulley had threaded holes in it to hold into, but it doesn't. You will need another way to "grab" the pulley when you are pushing on the nose of the crank. An appropriately sized three-leg puller should do the trick. Have you never used one before?
If you haven't, I'd say get that radiator out of the way. Tight quarters like that is not the place to learn how to use a puller. Or you will have a bunch of smashed fins and cut fingers.
Question, the new motor mounts just came in so what part of the motor do I push up on with the jack? I don't have a cherry picker and the only space I see to jack on is the oil pan. I really don't want to screw that up.
Just put a 2x4 the width of pan to spread out load and Jack away , also watch for wires and hoses have room to move! Sent from my SM-G920R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You won't need to loosen anything at the back of the engine. You should only be jacking at the front, evenly so both sides rise up the same, and just barely enough to slide the old biscuit out and the new ones in. I'm guessing you will raise the engine a half inch with the jack. The large cupped washer under the biscuit will have a lip that fits down into the large hole in the crossmember. Will probably need to raise the engine a quarter inch so you can get that washer out. Then slide the new biscuit and big cupped washer in as a unit. I hope you didn't buy the biscuits from Speedway. I got some there once and they flattened out within a year. You should buy parts like these from a reputable vintage Ford parts supplier.
Also, your next project should be replacing that shaft from the clutch pedal to the transmission's throw out arm. It seems to be a welded up cludgy mess. And should not have a bolt in it, it should have the proper pin holding it to the arm.
Awesome! Any tricks to removing the bolt from the center of the dry rotted motor mounts? I bought my motor mounts from early ford in Ca.
Long brass punch and a hammer. If the new biscuits come with new bolts you could use any old steel punch.
Got everything replaced thanks for the help guys! It's crazy how much room there is once the new motor mounts are in.
It looked like the old mounts were so bad that the balancer/pulley rubbed on them.....glad it worked out well for you