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Technical 35 ford coupe front Ubolt removal ( Help )

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by solo_909, May 8, 2017.

  1. solo_909
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,786

    solo_909
    Member

    Hey fellas,

    First, how do I remove the crank pulley? I need to replace the Ubolts holding the springs. Also, will I be able to remove the u bolts once the pulley is gone? It seems that it's a really tight fit for them to come out. It seems like they will hit the block where the oil pan attaches.

    Thanks,
    George

    IMG_9715.JPG IMG_9716.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2017
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. Instead of removing the pulley, I'd rather take the front mount bolts out and jack the front of the engine up a bit. The U-bolts will tip to the side some once the nuts are off. Probably check the condition of the mount rubbers too, they may have flattened out as that looks closer than normal.
     
  3. solo_909
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,786

    solo_909
    Member

    Well I have to replace the pulley as well. It's bent.
     
  4. solo_909
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,786

    solo_909
    Member

    You're right, they're old just bought some new motor mounts as well. IMG_9721.JPG
     

  5. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,522

    alchemy
    Member

    Install new motor mount biscuits, and I bet you could get the U bolts off without removing the pulley. If the pulley needs to come off for replacement, use a regular three leg puller like you would on any pulley. Is the radiator out of the way? It probably will need to be.
     
    solo_909 likes this.
  6. solo_909
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,786

    solo_909
    Member

    The pulley is bent so I have to replace it but I figured I'd do all this at once to make my lifer easier. The radiator is in, can it be don't without remove it?


    Stupid question but would this method work to remove the crank pulley?

     
  7. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,522

    alchemy
    Member

    That video's method pulling might have worked if your pulley had threaded holes in it to hold into, but it doesn't. You will need another way to "grab" the pulley when you are pushing on the nose of the crank. An appropriately sized three-leg puller should do the trick. Have you never used one before?
     
    solo_909 likes this.
  8. solo_909
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,786

    solo_909
    Member


    I have not ever used one.
     
  9. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,522

    alchemy
    Member

    If you haven't, I'd say get that radiator out of the way. Tight quarters like that is not the place to learn how to use a puller. Or you will have a bunch of smashed fins and cut fingers.
     
    solo_909 likes this.
  10. Larry W
    Joined: Oct 12, 2009
    Posts: 742

    Larry W
    Member
    from kansas

    Get the radiator out of your road , may save time and money in the long run .
     
    solo_909 likes this.
  11. solo_909
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,786

    solo_909
    Member

    Question, the new motor mounts just came in so what part of the motor do I push up on with the jack? I don't have a cherry picker and the only space I see to jack on is the oil pan. I really don't want to screw that up.
     
  12. hotrod harry
    Joined: Nov 9, 2008
    Posts: 46

    hotrod harry
    Member
    from wisconsin

    Just put a 2x4 the width of pan to spread out load and Jack away , also watch for wires and hoses have room to move!

    Sent from my SM-G920R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  13. solo_909
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,786

    solo_909
    Member

    Awesome! And are these the bolts I need to losen at the back of the trans to get it to tilt?

    IMG_9805.JPG IMG_9806.JPG
     
  14. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,522

    alchemy
    Member

    You won't need to loosen anything at the back of the engine. You should only be jacking at the front, evenly so both sides rise up the same, and just barely enough to slide the old biscuit out and the new ones in. I'm guessing you will raise the engine a half inch with the jack. The large cupped washer under the biscuit will have a lip that fits down into the large hole in the crossmember. Will probably need to raise the engine a quarter inch so you can get that washer out. Then slide the new biscuit and big cupped washer in as a unit.

    I hope you didn't buy the biscuits from Speedway. I got some there once and they flattened out within a year. You should buy parts like these from a reputable vintage Ford parts supplier.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  15. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,522

    alchemy
    Member

    Also, your next project should be replacing that shaft from the clutch pedal to the transmission's throw out arm. It seems to be a welded up cludgy mess. And should not have a bolt in it, it should have the proper pin holding it to the arm.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  16. solo_909
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,786

    solo_909
    Member


    Awesome! Any tricks to removing the bolt from the center of the dry rotted motor mounts?

    I bought my motor mounts from early ford in Ca.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2017
  17. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,522

    alchemy
    Member

    Long brass punch and a hammer. If the new biscuits come with new bolts you could use any old steel punch.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  18. solo_909
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,786

    solo_909
    Member

    Got everything replaced thanks for the help guys! It's crazy how much room there is once the new motor mounts are in. IMG_9833.JPG IMG_9832.JPG
     
    RICH B and olscrounger like this.
  19. upspirate
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 2,299

    upspirate
    Member

    It looked like the old mounts were so bad that the balancer/pulley rubbed on them.....glad it worked out well for you
     
    solo_909 likes this.

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