I've searched but ether get info on stock or external. Heres the deal..my trunk has been mounted as rumble for years, but with all my floor changes I need it to be a regular lid now, my car has no rain gutters in there so all that is gone.I made some hinges that are like a big U shape and mounted them to a bar to swing the lid but my lid just hits the panel under the window and won't open. So it looks like even a stock hinge (if I had a rain gutter) wouldnt work either.looks like it would still try to 'roll' and hit the body.. please lets see some pics!
PM Groovybaby6 - Ed has a sweet set of surface mounted chrome hinges on one of his roadsters. I searched for a picture but didn't find one. dd
Take a look at surface mounted British MG hinges ...perfect fit and scale is a lot better to a model A...you can find brand new ons on evil bay pretty cheap
Look at the Rocky Hinge Company. I used a set on the 42 Chevy I am building. If I remember right they have a couple of different sizes
No one has pics of home made ones??? Come on I wanna make these not spent a lot of cash on shiney stuff. Any pics? Maybe mine didn't work since I had no handle to lift it cause I was 'pivoting' it.lets see pics of hinges!
Stock hinges for a 28-31 deck lid are simply steel plates mounted with 2 screws to the inside flange of the deck opening which has a threaded hole which accepts a bolt with with the end turned down into a pin the appropriate size for the holes in the lid. The big U hinges will work but the geometry can be a booger bear to figure out. Best to make inside mounts then experiment with the U's made or cardbord until you hit the magic combo. Mechanical drawing in High School would have been your friend today. I like 71-80 Pinto/Bobcat, 74-78 Mustang II hood hinges for a very adaptable and handy hinge.
I think you need to have the hinge point up under the panel above the lid for it to work the way you are thinking.
With a stock hinge the front of the lid tucks under the panel in the front. Model A trunks don't open all that far. If you use the stock sliding prop it limits the opening and it wont hit the panel. I have converted a few lids from rumble to trunk and the front trough can be a problem mostly on 32's. Stock stuff works the best but it is kind of a pain to install the lid. I place pastic washers between the lid and side around the hinge pivot to keep the trunk centered so as not to take paint. Jim (55willys)
no surf-your on the right track, my pivot was a few inch back cause thats were the cros bar is in the car that i welded in. 55willys,mines seems like it wouldnt open at all. if i have the gaps close (how i want it) it just hits and dont go under the panel
Made up hinges using hood hinges off a Ford Tempo. Body end mounted on plate welded to bulkhead behind seat (visible at top of wood 2x4 ?? in picture). Hood end mounts to adjustable plate mounted to inside of inner trunk skin. Pivot point is just under tulip panel skin and behind top rain gutter, close as possible to both. Stock Model A hood prop was lengthened to allow a higher opening so I won't bang my head. </a>[/IMG] Clears everything when opening and closing. Top gap is about 1/8". Canuck
My car has no rain gutter and no structure, I have a brace across the inner panel but its not as close as a pivot point. That is indeed very clean.I like that
Exactly! Stock works nicely, but takes time to adjust so it won't scrape off paint when lifting. Fit carefully before painting. Plastic washers are what I used too.
Those trunk rain gutters add a ton of support in that area. You should consider installing them and using the simple and effective stock hinge. It's not too difficult a job.
Used '33 to '35 ish GM stockers, they are forged and are made with "rods" not stamped sheets, easy to heat and reconfigure to what fits.... memory says 2 bolts flanges on each side in the trunk and 4 bolt flanges under the tulip panel... they bolt into the body wood, so if you find a rotted body in the woods, look around the ground under the leaves, they may be just laying there... mine were...
I bought a '31 coupe that had been turned into a PU, probably during WW II ( trucks could get an extra gallon of gas during rationing) Whoever did the modification was in a hurry and beat the snot out of the whole back end of the car. I rebuilt it and got a set of rain gutters from a friend ( "ABones"on the HAMB) Now all is good again, and I used the simple stock pivot bolts with no problem. You can buy re-pops too, not cheap ( 3 pieces for around 200 bocks) but simple like most of Henry's early cars. Good Luck with it. MB
Guy who did my coupe hinge when it had a glass lid. He just cut some 3/16 flat stock in an arch. Made plates for the ends and bolted them in worked fine.
When I built mine, I had a lot of left over parts from my 41 Chevy build. Used the chrome trunk hinges (cheap) and the trunk locking mechanism as well. Worked like a charm and held the trunk up level. Just a thought. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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